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stupid is as stupid does
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Discussion Starter #1
I recently picked up a 2000 R1 off of Ebay with 2100 miles on it, it had been sitting for a while and some rust in the tank. I rode it home anyway (600 miles), no problem, ran great. I took the gas tank off and chemically removed the rust with the Yamaha rust remover system, put a new fuel filter on it, started it up and now it won't idle after it warms up and the choke is turned off. It will idle at 1000 then gradually goes lower and lower until it stalls out. It runs ok if I keep the throttle opened but it does backfire like crazy when I decelerate in gear. I'm sure nothing got past the fuel filter since I put a new one on before I started it up, so the carbs should be ok. Any ideas?
 

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Ghostrider Squadron
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the pilot jets are in bottom of bowls. im sure there is some dirt and trash in carbs. these jets are really really small. doesnt take much to stop them up. specially if bike sat long with old gas in it. a good cleangin will prolly help out a ton. use impact driver on bowl screws.. otherwise you will strip them out trying to use just screwdriver. get one if you dont have one at harbor freight for like $5.
 

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stupid is as stupid does
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Discussion Starter #5
still won't idle

ok, I took the carbs off, removed the float bowl covers, cleaned everything, blew out the pilot jets put everything back together, started her up and the bike runs the same exact way. After it warms up and the choke is turned off the idle drops to 800 rpm and then slowly drops from there until the engine stalls out, I adjusted the idle speed but it has no affect at all. The bike ran beautifully until I took the tank off and ran that rust remover/neutralizer. I'm thinking maybe it is the petcock or fuel pump but I am not sure how to test for correct output, but then I'm also thinking if it is a problem with the fuel delivery wouldn't it affect the engine in the upper rpm's?
 

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Had this problem on my R6...Only affected low RPM running and at idle....Turned out to be the tank was not delivering fuel correctly down the fuel hose...Bought a new tank off ebay and problem solved...I've got an 04 R1 now but not sure about your year.

If you have the fuel switch under the tank (like on the R6) then check that it is on...Yea I know it sounds dumb but many times this happened to me...Also check that your fuel filter isn't clogged or damaged...Check the hoses...Then if all else fails, try another tank (borrow one first if possible).
 

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stupid is as stupid does
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Discussion Starter #8
Had this problem on my R6...Only affected low RPM running and at idle....Turned out to be the tank was not delivering fuel correctly down the fuel hose...Bought a new tank off ebay and problem solved...I've got an 04 R1 now but not sure about your year.

If you have the fuel switch under the tank (like on the R6) then check that it is on...Yea I know it sounds dumb but many times this happened to me...Also check that your fuel filter isn't clogged or damaged...Check the hoses...Then if all else fails, try another tank (borrow one first if possible).
Thanks for the idea, I'm going to hook up one of those small auxillary fuel tanks, I'm thinking it is the petcock, when I first put the fuel tank back on after the initial rust treatment the petcock was leaking where you turn the lever on and off, I tightened the 2 small screws a bit and the leak stopped
 

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stupid is as stupid does
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Discussion Starter #9
The removed rust may have caused a blockage somewhere
Had this problem on my R6...Only affected low RPM running and at idle....Turned out to be the tank was not delivering fuel correctly down the fuel hose...Bought a new tank off ebay and problem solved...I've got an 04 R1 now but not sure about your year.

If you have the fuel switch under the tank (like on the R6) then check that it is on...Yea I know it sounds dumb but many times this happened to me...Also check that your fuel filter isn't clogged or damaged...Check the hoses...Then if all else fails, try another tank (borrow one first if possible).

I replaced the fuel valve under the tank and the bike idled on its own, however it was a very lumpy idle and when decelerating under load there was backfiring through the exhaust. I took the carbs off and cleaned them out again but it didn't help, now I am thinking that the puch/pull throttle cables are adjusted incorrectly since I had to loosen them completely to put the carbs back on. I remember years ago I had a 69 Camaro with a Holley 4 barrel carb and the throttle plates were open too much at idle exposing an air jet orifice and causing a very lumpy idle. I figure if the throttle cable is set wrong it would have the same effect.

Does anybody know how to adjust the cable to where it should be.

BTW when I start the bike up with the engine warm it idles at 3000 rpm then gradually drops to 1k, the same thing happens when I come to a stop after riding for a while.
 

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stupid is as stupid does
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Discussion Starter #11
I replaced the fuel valve under the tank and the bike idled on its own, however it was a very lumpy idle and when decelerating under load there was backfiring through the exhaust. I took the carbs off and cleaned them out again but it didn't help, now I am thinking that the puch/pull throttle cables are adjusted incorrectly since I had to loosen them completely to put the carbs back on. I remember years ago I had a 69 Camaro with a Holley 4 barrel carb and the throttle plates were open too much at idle exposing an air jet orifice and causing a very lumpy idle. I figure if the throttle cable is set wrong it would have the same effect.

Does anybody know how to adjust the cable to where it should be.

BTW when I start the bike up with the engine warm it idles at 3000 rpm then gradually drops to 1k, the same thing happens when I come to a stop after riding for a while.
I give up, I'm taking the bike to the dealership...I've cleaned, adjusted, replaced and it still backfires on decceleration (the colder it is outside the worse it is), has a lumpy idle, and when I come to a stop the idle hovers around 2,500 rpm and then drops to 1,000. I have owned allot of bikes, installed jet kits, adjusted carbs and I never encountered a problem like this. I can't wait to see what the mechanic comes up with, although I'm not looking forward to the bill.
I'll post again when I find out, in case anybody wants to know.
 

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I ride around like an idiot.
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Let us know what the dealer said and if it worked, some of those dealership mechs "easter-egg it" just like any one of us would.
 

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Drop a gear and Disappear!
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THE MAN
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first thing I would do is turn the idle up a bit and with it running at say 2k rpm sprat carb cleaner around the intake boots. If their is a leak it will drop or raise the idle suddenly.

Really though sounds like It needs the carbs synced.

If it is poping in decelleration thats normal, and can be easily fixed. If it is backfiring under decelleration thats most likely an air leak.

When carbs are groosly out of sync they will have a different idle rpm from cold to hot, and you will find yourself constantly playing with the idle speed knob.

William do you own a 6 inch long 3mm Ball headed allen socket?

Pretty hard to tell over the internet, but thats where I would start.
 

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stupid is as stupid does
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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
idle problems

I finally got my 2000 R1 to idle on it's own. I tightened up the rubber boots going from the carbs to the airbox and it seemed to help but now I have another problem. When I come to a stop the rpms don't go to idle right away they stay up around 2000-2500 then gradually fall to idle. The problem seems to be worse the hotter the engine gets. Also when starting up the engine cold with the choke fully on it revs to 4000-5000+, so I have to start it with half choke. Anybody have any ideas on this or similiar problem?
 

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need more $$ for track days
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a lot of weird behaviors can be spawned from carbs being out of sync. if you don't have the equipment, take it to the shop!!! tell them to sync the carbs for you cause you don't have the equipment! it's that easy and you sound knowledgeable and you'll probably get charged one hour labor

edit: found this lol http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp
 
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