[RIPPERTON]

Anyone know what the free height of the clutch diaphragm spring is supposed to be. Mine is 6.5mm. Manual doesnt help.
My 98 track bike is slipping in upper 3 gears. The frictions are still the same thickness as new ones.
Bike has 71k km on it (55k miles).

 

[racepro171]

sand blast all the steels, and order a spring from the new FJ1300.(as strong as the kit one)

 

[RIPPERTON]

Ah ! thanks.
Will try one.

 

[Alex_H]

or get the barnett clutch conversion kit, which I can say is one of the best things I've done on my R1 http://www.barnettclutches.com/products/spring_conversions.aspx?cat_id=6&prod_id=37

 

[RIPPERTON]

or get the barnett clutch conversion kit, which I can say is one of the best things I've done on my R1 http://www.barnettclutches.com/products/spring_conversions.aspx?cat_id=6&prod_id=37

Thats pretty cool but Ive got a Yoyo slipper.
Its got 6 posts but 3 of them are taken up by return springs so I havet to stick with a diaphragm

 

[Alex_H]

Thats pretty cool but Ive got a Yoyo slipper.
Its got 6 posts but 3 of them are taken up by return springs so I havet to stick with a diaphragm

Thats a bummer, ah well. Get much use from the slipper clutch?

 

[RIPPERTON]

Thats a bummer, ah well. Get much use from the slipper clutch?

Oh Yeah its the best bolt on mod money can buy.
Once its tuned properly it indispensable

 

[racepro171]

ahhhh, you have a slipper.... as do I. order the shim kit from yoyo. comes with thicker and thinner steels.The steel plate on the end will warp over time. you will see three blue spots on it.(same spots as the springs) and the steels do thin over time.

 

[R1 Gravity]

It would be advisable to change your clutch springs and also check your steel plates for warpage on glass

 

[RIPPERTON]

ahhhh, you have a slipper.... as do I. order the shim kit from yoyo. comes with thicker and thinner steels.The steel plate on the end will warp over time. you will see three blue spots on it.(same spots as the springs) and the steels do thin over time.

I tune differently. I laser cut my own reaction shims that go in the hub groove in the pressure plate. From 7075T6. I usually tune about 0.5mm reaction clearance between the hub and pressure plate shim
Also my "steels" are alloy, laser cut in 6061T6. They have done 45k km mostly street riding and show absolutely no signs of wear.
If you guys want to make your own shims I can Email you the laser patterns and then you can track down a laser cutter in you area. The laser pattern is just an AutoCAD file (DXF)

feast

 

[racepro171]

well then, that shuts me up. Interested in knowing how long the aluminum would last in a racing enviroment? Did you have them hard anodized aswell? I have seen them for sale from Barrnet. $10 per plate I believe.

 

[RIPPERTON]

sand blast all the steels, and order a spring from the new FJ1300.(as strong as the kit one)

Went to local :fork dealer to check out the parts fiche and found that even though the FJ has a hydraulic push rod it still has the same 3 parts that go either side of the diaphragm spring. So I ordered one. Actually cheaper than the R1 spring

 

[RIPPERTON]

well then, that shuts me up. Interested in knowing how long the aluminum would last in a racing enviroment? Did you have them hard anodized aswell? I have seen them for sale from Barrnet. $10 per plate I believe.

They would last forever in racing. Longer than in city traffic. I didnt anodise them at all. They do allright with the bit of oil the get. $10 is pretty cheap but making them myself is more fun

 

[RIPPERTON]

New FJ1300 spring arrives in the mail and it has 7mm free height which is 0.5mm more than the ol spring.
Weighes exactly the same and is same thickness.
install it and the lever feels heavier but have yet to test it.
Could say the old spring was flogged out after 71kkm

 

[racepro171]

I race a built motor, same slipper, and have had no slippage with the Fj spring. I swapped from new(motor had 1000km) .