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tlsmikey

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
For those of you that have installed one of these, I'm a bit stuck. Here goes.

Part 13S-8533A-70 (USB Cable Interface). Appears as though this is just used for programming. I haven't been able to talk to the YEC ECU yet despite trying it with power off and on. I assume that because 14B-86173-70 is not connected, I won't be able to talk to it.

2C0-86171-70 - Connects to USB programming cable. Figured that out.

14B-86172-70 - Connects to white connecter aft of the battery in the tail. The first time i started the bike without this connected all was good. When i connected this the yellow wrench came on in the main display.

This is where i need help.

14B-86173-70 - This is the semi-transparent, 10-pin connector with 3 black/blue wires on one side and 5 on the other. No idea where this goes? Anyone know where this one gets connected. I've looked everywhere and can't find a spot for it.

Can anyone confirm that you are supposed to read the ECU with power on and write with power off?
 
I have not yet received my YEC ECU but I have received the YEC racing harness and the communications cable (the ECU is coming soon...I hope). I noticed that included in one of the boxes is a mini-disc. I am/was assuming that the disc contained installation instructions. Did you receive a similar mini-cd-rom and have you attempted to open/load it?

Hasty Horn
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
The mini disc is rather useless. It contains the driver for the USB cable which already comes on the FI Racing CD. It's a dupiclate that you essentially do not need. Instructions are provided for interfacing with the software but there's nothing about cable connections.
 
Discussion starter · #4 · (Edited)
OK, here's what i've found so far.

ECU is plug n play with the stock unit. To install, simply remove the left side panel and it clips in place nicely. The new ECU removes the speedo, but the fans do work and there's a number above that is also recorded (58) was my number. Kind of looks like a top speed, but not really sure what that is. Temp is displayed where the speedo was.

Part 13S-8533A-70 does indeed attach to the USB programming dongle. There is a white connector that has a red power wire and black ground wire. You have two choices here. The cable is very short and intended to connect to the battery because the race ECU mounts in the tail section. You can either A) run an extended wire to the battery or B) tap into the power and ground at the ECU connection. I chose method B.



I tapped into the RED power wire on the smaller connector going into the ECU and for the ground i tapped into the a white connector near the ECU that has a set of 6 ground wires in it. I used vampire taps, but you over achievers will solder them in. Once you do this, you can plug into the race ECU and begin talking to it. Leave the dongle in place and you will only have to plug it in each time you run the YEC ECU.l

14B-86172-70 connects to the fuel pump relay in the tail. The only thing that I can see is that it removes the neutral light (which i find useful). Maybe it disables the smog pump or tilt sensor?



I've pulled apart the airbox, velocity stacks, everything that I can find and I still don't know where 14B-86173-70 goes. There's a plug with 15 pins instead of 10 that is similar in color near the rectifier behind the right fairing, but the plug doesn't go there.



You can read the ECU with the ignition on or battery power supplied. I assume writing is the same but i'm not clear on that yet.

I found the white wire on the left side of the fuel tank (Thanks ATL) that supposedly moves it from superbike to superstock mode, however that's the wire that controls the velocity stack motor it looks like.

Does that mean that the velocity stacks are disabled when you run in superstock mode? Seems odd. It's two wires (red/black).
 
Discussion starter · #8 · (Edited)
Took a look tonight. The PC tool is telling me that the STK/SBK setting is 0.00. I plugged an unplugged the white connector and it is indeed for the variable velocity stacks, but does not affect the STK/SBK setting.

Any ideas on how i switch between modes? Must be another white switch somewhere.

Diel tells me it is the 4th pin on the tilt sensor in the tail section. Going to investigate.
 
Took a look tonight. The PC tool is telling me that the STK/SBK setting is 0.00. I plugged an unplugged the white connector and it is indeed for the variable velocity stacks, but does not affect the STK/SBK setting.

Any ideas on how i switch between modes? Must be another white switch somewhere.

Diel tells me it is the 4th pin on the tilt sensor in the tail section. Going to investigate.
did you ever figure out where part#14B-86173-70 goes? im having the same problems with the plugs and the modes.
 
I dont have this kit installed yet, but im ordering it within 1 month ( gonna be a winter project). Seems like the instructions aren't that great.

TLSMICKEY: Have you found all the connector locations?

For any of you that installed this YEC Race kit, Is this kit too wild for street use? I will be tracking the bike most of the time, but will also use it for the streets.

also, ive been waiting to check out the dyno results for it, anobody?
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
did you ever figure out where part#14B-86173-70 goes? im having the same problems with the plugs and the modes.
Nope...not yet. I've sent an inquiry into Graves to see if they can help. Not holding my breath though. They've not been good at meeting my expectations so far.

Diel did confirm to me that there is a four pin connector that connects to the tilt switch in the tail (easy to find, it's marked "up"). One of those pins is not connected. If you ground that pin it goes to superbike mode, although as Diel also pointed out you don't need this unless you have spec cams, higher compression and some head work.

I don't know about street use. The idle is fairly high which helps with engine braking, but makes me cringe every time i click into 1st at 2,000RPM. Doesn't appear to be adjustable either.

I'm also not really excited about the 3,000 RPM gaps in timing and fuel maps. It's better than nothing, but not great.

The biggest dissappointment so far is really the lack of instructions. It wouldn't have been hard to provide some detail on where to plug this stuff in. No idea why Yamaha/Graves didn't do this.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Today's update.

The USB dongle that Graves provides only populates 4 wires. That's enough to communicate with the ECU, but not enough to record data. If you want to look at TPS position, gear position...etc, you will need to transfer the yellow and green wires from the Graves USB adapter to the stock connector. You can tap into power and ground numerous ways, but maintaining the factory smaller connector will allow you to few many more items.

Two questions I need help with:

1) Where is the wire/plug for quick shifters?

2) I can't seem to view gear indicator on the YEC software. Not sure why the YEC program doesn't seem to be able to tell me which gear i'm in, but it always reads 0.00. Must be something else that needs wiring.
 
If you're using the stock wiring harness you have no connection for quick shifter.

Remember that the YEC ecu is designed to run with the YEC harness, so everything you're doing to the stock one is "homemade". Wait until the software starts crashing your laptop and you have to reboot 10 times to make a change.
 
Nope...not yet. I've sent an inquiry into Graves to see if they can help. Not holding my breath though. They've not been good at meeting my expectations so far.

Diel did confirm to me that there is a four pin connector that connects to the tilt switch in the tail (easy to find, it's marked "up"). One of those pins is not connected. If you ground that pin it goes to superbike mode, although as Diel also pointed out you don't need this unless you have spec cams, higher compression and some head work.

I don't know about street use. The idle is fairly high which helps with engine braking, but makes me cringe every time i click into 1st at 2,000RPM. Doesn't appear to be adjustable either.

I'm also not really excited about the 3,000 RPM gaps in timing and fuel maps. It's better than nothing, but not great.

The biggest dissappointment so far is really the lack of instructions. It wouldn't have been hard to provide some detail on where to plug this stuff in. No idea why Yamaha/Graves didn't do this.
my tuner was able to lower the idle for me.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Diel, any idea what two pins the quickshifter goes to on the ECU? I'm thinking this is something that I could easily wire up if I knew what pins.

rjn450. No idea how you lowered idle, but would love to find out. Any way you can ask your tuner how they did that? I don't see any adjustment for it on my system.
 
Diel, any idea what two pins the quickshifter goes to on the ECU? I'm thinking this is something that I could easily wire up if I knew what pins.

rjn450. No idea how you lowered idle, but would love to find out. Any way you can ask your tuner how they did that? I don't see any adjustment for it on my system.
im gonna see him on monday, ill ask him to show me.
 
Diel, any idea what two pins the quickshifter goes to on the ECU? I'm thinking this is something that I could easily wire up if I knew what pins.

rjn450. No idea how you lowered idle, but would love to find out. Any way you can ask your tuner how they did that? I don't see any adjustment for it on my system.
hey tlsmikey, to lower your idle you have to pick a map, then click on const. you'll see at the bottom of that screen const idle, click const idle. there's a box for what ever parameter you want to use. my tuner put -1 and that seems to be fine. let me know how you make out.
 
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