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markosaspiotis

· Ride It Like You Stole It!
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138 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
well i have just added a YEC rotor on my 06 R1 the last week and i'm proud of this...
Image


before this i have read in the forum that the most off them who used this rotor had problems with tha battery charging!! i have to say that i was a bit confused about this because i didnt want to have this rotor and having problems with my electric power....some of them said that you have to have one headlight, one fan radiator for lower watts... some other said that whatever you do you will have problems an you have to charge your battery with a battery charger once or twice a week!!!

but i have this rotor for one week... i run two headlights , two fan radiators power commander, ignition module, the tail light normally the only thinks i dont have on the bike are the turn signals and the horn!!! and i have to say that i have no problems with my electric power... i have 13,8 volts on the battery at 5000 RPMs and everythink wirks perfect. by the way i have a shorai lithium battery (maybe this is the fact for the perfect working!!!

also the power of the bike have been increased, and the massive deference is the acceleration point that is unbelievable... :) also the bike is over revving like a beast from hell!!! i think that the YEC rotor is a very good mod for performance!!!
 
I was hoping to fit a YEC rotor to my 07 R1 and was worried about the charging rate to the battery. To the best of my knowledge (secondhand info) the standard rotor generates 3 phase electricity and by using a YEC rotor the electrical system changes to 2 phase.

I know absolutly nothing about 2 and 3 phase electricity, so I was put off the idea of fitting one of those rotors. I like having working turn signals and lights etc, but I didn't want to buy a rotor and have to lose everything.

I talked to a guy who was running a race rotor on a race BMW, he said that his torque fell off a little. Did you by any chance dyno your bike before and after?
 
Discussion starter · #5 · (Edited)
Noice!!!

Keep us updated with the battery specs and voltages... Looks like you busted another forum myth :fact

And post more pics if you took them!!!
:) thank you for your good words! i'll keep you update... i'm soory about the photo but this is the only one i took... :dunno and now the rotor is in the engine :fire

Hey,

Nice write up. Where can I get one of these?

Thanks
Louis
hmmm i dont know :lol i bought this rotor second handed from a local racer here in greece.... but i think you can check here http://motorcycletoystore.com where they have many YEC parts....

I was hoping to fit a YEC rotor to my 07 R1 and was worried about the charging rate to the battery. To the best of my knowledge (secondhand info) the standard rotor generates 3 phase electricity and by using a YEC rotor the electrical system changes to 2 phase.

I know absolutly nothing about 2 and 3 phase electricity, so I was put off the idea of fitting one of those rotors. I like having working turn signals and lights etc, but I didn't want to buy a rotor and have to lose everything.

I talked to a guy who was running a race rotor on a race BMW, he said that his torque fell off a little. Did you by any chance dyno your bike before and after?
i'm the same with you... i dont know anything about 2 and 3 phase electricity... the only i know is that i'm running this rotor on my bike with absolutely no problems!!! as i talk with my mechanic the shorai lithium battery is the best choice to work perfect this rotor and dont have any problems in the future!!! i have done a dyno on my bike before the rotor... i want to dyno it again now with the rotor to see the difference! but as i can see on the road
the bike have more power and accelerates much more better than before!!!
 
i'm the same with you... i dont know anything about 2 and 3 phase electricity... the only i know is that i'm running this rotor on my bike with absolutely no problems!!! as i talk with my mechanic the shorai lithium battery is the best choice to work perfect this rotor and dont have any problems in the future!!! i have done a dyno on my bike before the rotor... i want to dyno it again now with the rotor to see the difference! but as i can see on the road
the bike have more power and accelerates much more better than before!!!
You have me interested in the YEC rotor again, thank you so much!
I'd be real interested to see the before and after dyno charts for sure.
I'd like to ask one other question... do you feel any loss in torque/pull from the engine?
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
You have me interested in the YEC rotor again, thank you so much!
I'd be real interested to see the before and after dyno charts for sure.
I'd like to ask one other question... do you feel any loss in torque/pull from the engine?
i will keep you update my friend with the dyno charts after i do it!!!
to be sure i havent feel any loss... the bike is just better on every point! when you open the throttle abruptly you must to put more power to keep your hands on the bars... btw you said before that you asked a friend of you who has a racing rotor on a BMW... maybe the BMWs have defferent point of the work from a race rotor! i cant explain it...:confused:
 
i will keep you update my friend with the dyno charts after i do it!!!
to be sure i havent feel any loss... the bike is just better on every point! when you open the throttle abruptly you must to put more power to keep your hands on the bars... btw you said before that you asked a friend of you who has a racing rotor on a BMW... maybe the BMWs have defferent point of the work from a race rotor! i cant explain it...:confused:
That's great, thank you my friend.
You're the first person that I've come across that has had any real working experience with the YEC rotor on the street. The guys with the YEC rotors over here are on track bikes and are of little help when it comes to information about lights and such.

You could be right about the BMW. The important thing for me is that you're running a YEC one on an R1 and the information that you share is like gold :thumbup
 
Any chance you weighed both rotors ? Curious.
 
what does a rotor do difference to make more power?
 
what does a rotor do difference to make more power?
The length of the magnetic housing is shorter than the standard one. The reason is for reduced interial mass and friction loss. The attached thumbnail shows the difference between YEC (on the left) and standard (on the right).
The reduced crank driven weight allows the engine to spin up faster
 

Attachments

I have a factory rotor that went bad (magnets came loose) and was thinking of eliminating as much weight as possible from it to run total loss,any idea how long it will run before depleting the battery R1 liam ?
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Any chance you weighed both rotors ? Curious.
hmmm no! i forget to do this because when i took the YEC rotor the only thing i wanted is to put the rotor on the engine and test it... :hammer:
but they have a big difference in weight as i could understand with my hands....
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I have a factory rotor that went bad (magnets came loose) and was thinking of eliminating as much weight as possible from it to run total loss,any idea how long it will run before depleting the battery R1 liam ?
just a few kilometers... like 8-10 kilometers!!! after this your battery will be down to 8-9volts and you have to switch the power off because if you running with low volts this may damage your ECU!!
 
Little input on the YEC rotor. I have an 04 R`1 and was going to use one. KWS Motorsports installed it and tested it for street use. Will not work. Not enough voltage output for street use. Basically can only use it on a track bike I was told by them.
 
Discussion starter · #16 · (Edited)
Little input on the YEC rotor. I have an 04 R`1 and was going to use one. KWS Motorsports installed it and tested it for street use. Will not work. Not enough voltage output for street use. Basically can only use it on a track bike I was told by them.
i'm using this on the road and it works perfect... no problem with the charging of the battery... i have check it with a meter and it gives 13,8 volts at 5000 RPM!
also i have the translogic micro dash3 which has a volt meter and i can check the volts all the time... when i have low RPM with closed thottle at 1350 -1400 RPM it gives approx 12,8 volts and when you open the throttle it goes to approx 13,8 volts... and i have both of the headlights with XENON 35W, normal taillight, power commander, ignition module, both of the radiator fans and everything works perfect!!! so the YEC rotor can be used on the road!!!

P.S. it is necesery to have a high capacity battery because those batteries need the half time of the normal batteries to be fully charged, so this helps you to have your battery always charged....
 
i'm using this on the road and it works perfect... no problem with the charging of the battery... i have check it with a meter and it gives 13,8 volts at 5000 RPM!
also i have the translogic micro dash3 which has a volt meter and i can check the volts all the time... when i have low RPM with closed thottle at 1350 -1400 RPM it gives approx 12,8 volts and when you open the throttle it goes to approx 13,8 volts... and i have both of the headlights with XENON 35W, normal taillight, power commander, ignition module, both of the radiator fans and everything works perfect!!! so the YEC rotor can be used on the road!!!

P.S. it is necesery to have a high capacity battery because those batteries need the half time of the normal batteries to be fully charged, so this helps you to have your battery always charged....
That's some good info Marko, if I'm lucky enough to find one ill buy it!
 
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