[RayJohns]

Why are you choosing to modify these rotors and not the factory ones?


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Lighter weight. The carriers are aluminum. Not sure if the OEM ones are, but I think the OEM carriers are steel.

I'm actually in the shop right now converting the 2nd rotor over and about to start re-assembly on the bike.

Ray

 

[RayJohns]

Doing the pre-static balance with the rotors, prior to installing the Pirelli SuperCorsa SP tires.

The other photos are the weight difference between the stock and Titanium rotor fixing bolts (front & rear).

Front Titanium (10 bolts): 35.5 grams lighter
Rear Titanium (5 bolts): 23.2 grams lighter

Ray

 

[quick kurt]

Hope they work out good for you,they sure look trick. I really like "natural" hard anodized colors, like on the rotor carriers & floater buttons. Good job !

 

[RayJohns]

Hope they work out good for you,they sure look trick. I really like "natural" hard anodized colors, like on the rotor carriers & floater buttons. Good job !

Thank you! I went with raw Titanium on the front bolts to carry that theme through.

For the rear, I used gold Titanium, to dress up things a bit and to balance out the Renthal rotor on the other side. Here's a photo of the rear rotor.

Ray

 

[quick kurt]

Looks good too ! I have the gold Ti rotor bolts on my '06 50th fr&rr, and the natural Ti on my '12 fr&rr. Have a Renthal rear sprocket on my '12 also, and used the natural Ti nuts on there as well for good contrast of color like you did.

 

[RayJohns]

Looks good too ! I have the gold Ti rotor bolts on my '06 50th fr&rr, and the natural Ti on my '12 fr&rr. Have a Renthal rear sprocket on my '12 also, and used the natural Ti nuts on there as well for good contrast of color like you did.

Here's a photo of the rear. I switched from a Renthal 530 45T to a Renthal 520 46T and used Titanium bi-hex metal locking nuts, along with gold Titanium washers.

Ray

 

[ebags]

Here's a photo of the rear. I switched from a Renthal 530 45T to a Renthal 520 46T and used Titanium bi-hex metal locking nuts, along with gold Titanium washers.

Ray

Looks great! Are the gold lock washers from probolt?

 

[Benocehcap]

Here's a photo of the rear. I switched from a Renthal 530 45T to a Renthal 520 46T and used Titanium bi-hex metal locking nuts, along with gold Titanium washers.

Ray

Hi Ray :hellobye
I have the same Probolt rear disc bolts :boobies
Waiting on funds to buy the Bi-hex metal locking nuts. Can you share the link to the washers please :sneaky

 

[RayJohns]

Hi Ray :hellobye
I have the same Probolt rear disc bolts :boobies
Waiting on funds to buy the Bi-hex metal locking nuts. Can you share the link to the washers please :sneaky

Here's the link to the washers:

http://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium/titanium-washers/titanium-flat-washer-m10-gold.html

Ray

 

[RayJohns]

Looks great! Are the gold lock washers from probolt?

Thank you!

And yes, you got it: Pro Bolt USA. Half the bike is from Pro Bolt lol Just kidding.

And those are actually flat washers (not lock washers). The Titanium bi-hex nuts are, however, metal/mechanical locking nuts (with a little pinch ring at the top). The washers are just there so the bolts don't torque down against the sprocket and gal the surfaces, etc. (and for looks).

Ray

 

[ebags]

Ah gotchya. Very nice detail. Might have to do it myself on my next sprocket change, which is due soon... want to swap out the Renthal 520 45 for 47. :sneaky

 

[RayJohns]

Ah gotchya. Very nice detail. Might have to do it myself on my next sprocket change, which is due soon... want to swap out the Renthal 520 45 for 47. :sneaky

I was running a Renthal 530 chain with front and rear sprocket prior to this. 16 tooth front, 45 tooth rear.

When switching over to this 520 setup, I stuck with the 16T front (in 520) and bumped the rear up to 46T from 45T. My friend that I ride with discovered the "A Mod" on his 2010 R1, so I had to do something to offset his new found speed haha

Just going down to 16T from 17T in front is a very nice gear change. -1/+1 should be very similar, as it's only a very slight change ratio wise. If you are thinking of changing from stock to see what you like (and you currently have 17T in front), I'd recommend dropping the front sprocket down 1 tooth first and see what you think.

I'd have to do the math again, but usually +2 in the back is less than -1 in the front (and -1 in the front, whilst nice, is rather tame in some regards). You do notice it, but it's not a night/day change. It's just a little more snappy off the line and through the gears. You definitely have to watch the wheelies away from signals if you drop the clutch or twist too much/too early.

Ray

 

[Spyrious]

Thats an very nice mod!!!Can i do it to the stock 08 rotors?Thanks

 

[RayJohns]

Thats an very nice mod!!!Can i do it to the stock 08 rotors?Thanks

Which part are you referring to?

Ray

 

[RayJohns]

Here is a picture of the rotors on the wheel. I just secured them with Titanium bolts and some blue loctite (242). I'm getting ready to balance the wheel with the tires. Video coming in a minute.

Here's the video. Not the best lighting because I was getting ready to balance the tire in my living room.

Ray

 

[ebags]

Looking good Ray.

Ps you should have installed some 90 degree valve stems to make checking pressures easy while you had the tyres off. :yesnod

 

[greenstreak9205]

And they're lighter :lol

 

[RayJohns]

Looking good Ray.

Ps you should have installed some 90 degree valve stems to make checking pressures easy while you had the tyres off. :yesnod

Thanks!

On the valve stem, I considered doing that. However, I already have an air chuck (both on the air compressor attachment, as well as my tire gauge) that is designed to angle in there and I'm used to doing it on the bike.

Also, I wanted to maintain the stem in the same plane as the rim's center line and not have any of the weight of the valve stem hanging over to either side. I usually balance the wheel/tire assembly to between 1/4 and 1 gram, so I felt it was best to just leave it as is.

Those 90 degree valve stems do look handy though!

Ray

 

[ebags]

Damn that's some fussy balancing!

I work one of Australias largest tyre retailers so I know exactly how fussy that is :lol.

Ill weigh up a standard rubber valve and a Bridgeport 90 degree some time this week.

:thumbup

 

[RayJohns]

Damn that's some fussy balancing!

I work one of Australias largest tyre retailers so I know exactly how fussy that is :lol.

Ill weigh up a standard rubber valve and a Bridgeport 90 degree some time this week.

:thumbup

Yeah, I had one tire/rim balanced so well that adding a 1" section of scotch tape would cause it to start moving the other direction. I don't balance things that closely any longer, but definitely try to get within a gram or so.

I just finished balancing the wheel with the ebay rotors and it only took 6.2 grams to trim things out to pretty much neutral on the static balancer. That's the least I have ever had to use to balance a tire. So that's either a good sign or a bad sign - not sure which yet



Ray