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John's R1

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
:mad: Okay guy's needing to seek the advise of all you out there because I am about to bash my head into the cement! I have my baby running like a raped ape but there is one problem I am having. Between 10 and 12k under hard acceleration I get a slip or wheel spin, just a slight one but still a slip.
I have replaced the clutch a pressure plate with a Barnett SR3 and fiber plates, check the front and rear sprockets and the chain is to speck. I run Yamalube motor oil and the clutch is adjusted properly. So, any hints, please throw my way so I can check it out before I take to the shop, which I hate having others touch my bike! :dunno
 
you check the clutch basket? if the marks where the frictions hit on the outer cage have become deep grooves, the frictions will hang up in them and never seat against the steels correctly. usually happens on bikes that have seen alot of drag launches and or clutch up wheelies.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
before replacing with the Barnett it was slipping a lot worse, it started at 8k and would rev the motor to red line and I was told it was the clutch plates that were worn out. When I remove it I found out that the diaphram spring was worn out. The papers were okay and the steel plates had been heated but not warpted. The SR-3 is a new clutch basket, so if there were any scoring it was replaced. A buddy asked if I thought it was the gear box and I don't think so do to the fact it happens in all gears under hard acceleration and only at the top end. let me know what you think.
Thanks, John
 
i would of used OEM fibre, instead of barnets, i have read too many times, on gixxer.com with ppl using barnet fibres/plates and still get slippage, yet when they change back to OEM plates/fibres it works perfectly.. but the barnet springs are stronger then the stock springs, that would be the only thing i would use from barnett
 
yeah..I'd suggest the stock clutch with TWO clutch springs is better than any aftermarket clutch...

My '98 R1 is puting out 150BHP+ at the rear wheel and I got some clutch slippage until I installed a second clutch diaphram spring (using two at once, insted of one)...since then I've experience absolutley NO slippage what so ever, even at full throttle up to red line in all gears...I also clutch up wheelies, done hundreds in mainly second and third gears with no detrimental effect on clutch...

I have also heard many bad stories about fibre clutch plates, mainly concerned with the fibres wearing and contaminating your oil...personally I dont want fibre anywhere NEAR my oil...

Good luck...hope it works out for ya...

PS know what you mean bout others working on my bike...I really paranoid too...no one touches my beeetch cept me!! haha...
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Well Martin I'm not sure, but it seems like the clutch. I run the 208gp's so I don't get slippeg unless I want it or the tire gets greasey. From what I am reading hear the carbon fiber maybe cutting loose? Should I throw back in the stock retain the SR-3. On the SR-3 I'm using the street springs and NOT the racing springs. Should I change the springs first? or Just change the disks? Let me know what you think, Thanks John
 
I"d run the stock plates;I"m sticking to my idea:Barnett sucks.
I installed one of the CF plates set on afriend"s r1 last summer and what do you know,its not the same overall width...I was like WTF?

Anyways,if you have xtra power,stock clutch besides the Cf plates,you should try 2 diaphragms (stock clutch springs) along with the stock Yamaha plates;no more problems,bite-a-plenty,long-lasting.
 
This advice comes from an offroad forum where there were many issues / problems with non-OEM clutches :

Check each plate on a true flat surface, glass or mirror. If they are not completely flat, that's your problem.

It does mean taking the clutch apart again, but you should start eliminating possiblities, I guess.

If I recall, 7 out of a batch of 12 plates were not usable in one instance during the discussions on the mentioned thread. Most problems were with this specific brand you've got problems with and this is how the problem was identified and fixed.

Good basket and springs were the common agreement though.
 
Martin C's advise was te reason I installed a second diaphram spring and stuck with stock Clutch plate...and I can concurr with him...my clutch is now perfect, no slippage even under extreme power...long lasting...

Only downside is a really hard clutch lever...which I actually LOVE now that I've gotten used to it...lots of feel...positive action...

Cheapest and BEST mod to the clutch system of the R1...

:riding
 
I have experienced these same problems in the world of Banshees. They are so hard on clutches, I have used one in a day of dragging at the local hot spot. The solution is here, always use OEM plates, switch to the stiffer springs, and if you want an aftermarket pressure plate and basket!
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Well all after reading all of your advice, I put the stock frictions and steels back in, but kept the SR-3 by Barnett (clutch basket) and works super no slipping at all just super fast hard acceleration, they way I like it. Thank you all for your help and input. She is a beautiful beast!!!!
 
Is changing the clutch and adding a second diaphragm difficult? Does anyone know about how much this cost?

Under hard acceleration (9 - 11K RPM's) it feels like I'm riding the clutch or not fully engaged. It's not really slipping from what I tell.
 
Its easy,you just remove the bolt holding the diaphragm,you put the 2nd one against the other,line them up,put the bolts back (dont over-torque,the bolts are not going as deep as before,even if its only a little)...the hard part is putting the freakin cover on.
 
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