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Discussion starter · #22 ·
The Day She Came Back From the Dead

The R1 idled fine after springing to life. Mileage was even lower than I thought it would be.

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I didn't let her idle long as obviously the oil is questionable.

The large breaker bar I was able to procure did the the trick. The drain plug came out but look what happened: The lower part of the drain plug had this white coating which when you peeled it off the thread was metal:

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The shavings from the second picture I fished out of the threads on the oil pan. Did this strip the oil pan threads? The plug doesn't seem to tighten like it should but I can feel threads as normal. Is this some kind of OEM thread compound?

Going to post this as a separate thread.

I only idled her for a couple minutes. I was getting some white smoke from where the header meets the exhaust junction (or whatever that is). It didn't show up in the photo. I figure/hope it's just moisture cooking off.

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Still got the check engine light illuminated and hope it's just the missing air temp sensor. Managed to find a harness on ebay for $45 that included the air temp sensor still plugged in as well as at least one headlight relay.

If anyone needs a harness part or plug I'm your guy.

Amazon completely screwed up/forgot my order so the brake work has to wait another couple days.

Doing the full oil change tomorrow.
 
Gotta love that she fired up. Sweet very happy for ya. I know when I change my filter oil gets on the exhaust and burns off. So I'd say whatever was on the pipes was just doing the same. If you changed the filter it woulda definitely got some oil on the pipes.
 
Hope you don't mind but I am following the build and wanted to show you my great find I told ya about earlier in the thread. I love this bike so much and it will never leave the stable. This winter I'll be starting a thread showing all that I am doing to it and have already done to it during the off season. I just posted in your other thread my opinion of the rest of your bikes break in period. Anyway here she is.

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The large breaker bar I was able to procure did the the trick. The drain plug came out but look what happened: The lower part of the drain plug had this white coating which when you peeled it off the thread was metal:

Image


Image


The shavings from the second picture I fished out of the threads on the oil pan. Did this strip the oil pan threads? The plug doesn't seem to tighten like it should but I can feel threads as normal. Is this some kind of OEM thread compound?
Looks like your oil pan threads are stripped, that's what you peeled off the bolt. Ham-fisted wrench turner with a steel bolt in an aluminum pan.

Nice build thread.
 
Hope you don't mind but I am following the build and wanted to show you my great find I told ya about earlier in the thread. I love this bike so much and it will never leave the stable. This winter I'll be starting a thread showing all that I am doing to it and have already done to it during the off season. I just posted in your other thread my opinion of the rest of your bikes break in period. Anyway here she is.

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That's a really beautiful bike!!!

Just after following this thread, I am thinking to pick up a 'new' but project R1. They are gorgeous machines.
 
Sweet! Looks a heck of a lot better than mine. For now :smile2:
Looking forward to seeing yours complete are ya going with stock fairings?? They look so good on the 07/08. When I was searching for another r1 I was looking for 04/06 or 07/08 being I just prefer the normal inline more aggressive behavior Anything done to improve traction just takes all the fun out of it.lol I already had the 02/03 so I looked at many 07/08&04/06 and when I did see perfect looking bikes they was always gone or way overpriced. Then I just happened to check Craigslist on a Friday night and caught one that had just been listed. I was the first responder and my exact message said (if the bike your selling is the bike I see in these pics I'll buy it cash right now) so glad I found her. I've never been so in love with a bike in my life and I've had many.
 
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Thanks mavericksfhs hey didn't you just pick up a 01 r1?? That's actually what I want one day is a really sweet clean first generation r1. They are so freaking awesome looking and what started the whole 1000cc craze. The guy I bought my 04 from also had a 98 r1 for sale that sold right before I got there to get mine. He had listed them both the night before. I do have a pic of them sitting together that he sent me. Here they are, a 1st gen 98,and 3rd gen 04.
Hope ya don't mind tomski
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
Looks like your oil pan threads are stripped, that's what you peeled off the bolt. Ham-fisted wrench turner with a steel bolt in an aluminum pan.

Nice build thread.
The ham-fisted wrench turner was a factory tech as this is the first time the oil has been drained.

I think they had their automatic torque wrenches set too high during assembly as the first oil change on these has been a nightmare for many judging by what I've read in these forums.

Of course sitting for 9 years didn't help any :frown2:
 
Any progress?? I'm interested to know what your going to do fairing wise. Looking at this bike in the pics it looks like it has the potential to look new again. I am pretty sure you had said your going black and the 08 stock black fairings are the absolute bomb. I love the barge boards on the 07/08. It's a fairing Desighns straight from formula one racing. The barge board design looks really cool.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Eyes Without a Face

Any progress?? I'm interested to know what your going to do fairing wise. Looking at this bike in the pics it looks like it has the potential to look new again. I am pretty sure you had said your going black and the 08 stock black fairings are the absolute bomb. I love the barge boards on the 07/08. It's a fairing Desighns straight from formula one racing. The barge board design looks really cool.
My plan is to put the pieces I have back on for starters. Thing is there are lots of little plastic panels and gap fillers and I don't have them all. I do have all the major pieces. Looks like $100-$200 to buy the missing plastic and fasteners on eBay.

Then I'm going to ride her for awhile. If she's a keeper -- and this may be too much bike for me at this stage -- I'm thinking of getting the Chinese Kenny Roberts yellow/black/white plastic.

Ran her for about 5 minutes today, got the temp up to 220 and the new oil circulating. I think the new oil made her happy. No more smoke from anywhere. Revs strong. She's eager to run.

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But I have the wrong gas tank and the seller is dragging his feet on a refund (allegedly he's on vacation). I'm sure he isn't keen on taking a $110 hit on round trip postage.

But new tank should be here on Saturday. Any advice on protecting the paint? Anyone spray on that clear bra stuff? Super wax job? Since it's brand new now would be the time to do it.

Got the Chinese nose cowl piece yesterday and painted it flat black. Initially she's going to be flat black with shiny highlights. If it looks good I'll buy the missing pieces and keep her that way.

Here's what she looks like just before I took the tank off:

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Discussion starter · #34 ·
Gas Tank and Air Temp Sensor

Got the new tank today. Shiny. So shiny you can't get a good picture of it.

Of course it fit without issue. I'm having to use my existing shroud for now. It has a gouge on the right side so want to change that down the road. If I buy a Chinese plastic set it will come with a new one.

Since it was a new OEM tank it of course had nothing attached to it. Had to recycle the foil dampers from the wrecked tank and the various rubber isolators.

The aftermarket gas cap doesn't work out of the box either. The screws they give you are too short. You can get one in but then the other two sit too high since you're pressing down a large rubber washer. Looks like when they knocked this off they just went with the same size screws as stock. But the stock rubber piece sits lower. Should be able to find some longer ones at Home Depot though.

Also got my ebay harness late today. It was a bit of a bust as it didn't contain the headlight relays. I thought I saw one in the picture and the other was just out of the frame. But what I saw was different relay. So the whole harness only netted me the air temp sensor and plug. Not a deal at $45 but that plug is next to impossible to find so no regrets.

And after splicing it onto my existing bare wires no more error codes and the check engine light is off. That is worth $45.

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Tomorrow it's brakes and then time for a very short road test as I don't have tags.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Brakes and AM Gas Cap

Home Depot had the exact bolts I need for the gas cap. 10mm longer than the ones included. They have a regular Philips head so don't look quite as cool but the black cap on the black tank is nice.

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With my new brake vacuum gun in hand I was ready for the last step to make here a complete runner.

Back brakes proved no problem. Put vacuum on bleeder valve and sucked fluid to it from reservoir until it ran out clear. Then capped reservoir and applied brake pressure to force air out of bleeder valve until just fluid ran out. The whole procedure took maybe 30 minutes.

Brake pedal was just a smidge below speck so raised it. It feels right and it is stopping the spinning rear tire. Will definitely take it easy and keep and eye on it initially.

Feeling good I tried to do the same thing to the front brakes. But it's more complicated because there are three bleed screws (one at each caliper and one at the cylinder).

Long story short: I could not get her to suck in any fluid from the reservoir no matter what I did. Finally took off the master and found I couldn't create any suction so pulled off the rubber dust cover and found this:

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Looks like a rebuild is in order. I have it soaking in rust remover now and will follow with brake cleaner until I can pull the cylinder out. It's currently stuck in the "on" position. I don't know how I'm going to remove it if the crud doesn't dissolve. I was able to remove the retention washer you see at top of the cylinder tunnel.
 
It's amazing how much of the bike remained rust free while other parts are just ate up. Just shows all the places where moister had been left rather it sat out a night in the rain and was never properly dried or what. Who knows?? But once it starts it spreads like cancer. That bike must have sat in a pretty damp place with no airflow. Definitely worth saving for sure. Great find. The 04/06 and 07/08 are my absolute favorite years for the r1.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Master Cylinder Rebuild, Brake Light Switch

Happy to say I got the piston out of the master cylinder. Overnight soaking in rust remover didn't do it. There's not really much rust here. It's mostly dried brake fluid gumming up the works.

Soaked it in brake cleaner for about 2 hours. That didn't free it. Then I attached my brake vacuum onto the bleeder valve, blocked off the paths to the lines and reservoir and put pressure on the piston. After about half a dozen tries it moved a bit, then I just worked it back and forth until it came out.

Here it is (note that much of what's black should be silver):

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Ordered a rebuild kit from Yamaha, $40 delivered. Cylinder itself looks fine, tunnel walls a bit gummy but not corroded or scratched.

The rebuild kit basically replaces everything in the photo plus the tine washer that locks the whole thing into the cylinder

One of the two prongs for the brake light switch broke off half way in the little plug. Took some surgery with a pick to get it out.

Going on vacation next week so won't be riding her until I get back in October.

Also, I like to wear gloves when working with lots of chemicals and in the past I've bought those flimsy disposal blue ones that tear easily. Got this brand this time and they're great. 100 of these will last a long time. Seriously puncture resistant and so far no chemical has had much effect on them. Around $12 a box.

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I've heard something about a rebuild kit for my master on my 04 is a upgrade being the rebuild kit for the 04 has been updated to the 06 specs. I've looked into it and never really figured out what the upgrade is. I read something about it being a 16mm kit when the 04 was like a 14mm??? No idea but this reminds me I need to look into it again. The only thing I don't understand is that if the 06 is a larger mm rebuild kit how would it even work in a 04?? Hope someone sees this and can clarify whatever it is that's different on the 06. I also wonder if the 08 version you have here is also different.
Have ya been able to take her a spin yet??
 
Subscribed. I too got an 08 I'm fixing up. It was dropped on right side and broke peg and snapped the bolt that held the pedal on. Can't even test the brake switch until I get a new restart or at least a peg and bolt. But looking forward to seeing how urs comes out
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Vacation Time

Hoped to go for a ride before vacation but awaiting master cylinder rebuild kit.

Off for a couple weeks. All parts should be here when I get back.

Launch day should be 10/5.

Still need to install right air tube, rear turn signals, plug in one headlight relay and get front brakes working. That should be enough to legally get me to the gas station (I only have about a gallon of premium at home. My gas container is full of rot gut for the lawn machinery).

Then I'm going to helicoil the oil drain pan plug.

Then it's time to dress her in plastic.


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