[theblank]

I popped up the tank and checked diagnostic codes. Here is what came up:
d01:15
d02:101
d03:101
d05:79
d06:145
d08:0.6
d09:12.0
d13:15
d14:16

I havent Google'd these yet so I have no idea what will come up. I rode the bike today for one hour around the university of south florida, heavy traffic, tons of lights, the fans kicked on at 225 as they normally do. ZERO idling issues!!! Haha, I cant believe injector cleaner made that much of a difference! I filled up the tank with 93 and the one bottle of inj cleaner. I still need to research the TPS adjustment/valve info from the manual, but hey, so far so good!

 

[theblank]

Here's a couple pics of the bike. I want to replace the black plastics with new ones because they have a fair amount of scratches on them.

 

[Numbers]

I popped up the tank and checked diagnostic codes. Here is what came up:
d01:15
d02:101
d03:101
d05:79
d06:145
d08:0.6
d09:12.0
d13:15
d14:16

I havent Google'd these yet so I have no idea what will come up. I rode the bike today for one hour around the university of south florida, heavy traffic, tons of lights, the fans kicked on at 225 as they normally do. ZERO idling issues!!! Haha, I cant believe injector cleaner made that much of a difference! I filled up the tank with 93 and the one bottle of inj cleaner. I still need to research the TPS adjustment/valve info from the manual, but hey, so far so good!

Good deal boss man!

If I were in your shoes I'd clear the existing codes, start her back up and then take a peak and see what's active. That's, a lot of codes you've got there bud.

 

[jsp1990]

I popped up the tank and checked diagnostic codes. Here is what came up:
d01:15
d02:101
d03:101
d05:79
d06:145
d08:0.6
d09:12.0
d13:15
d14:16

I havent Google'd these yet so I have no idea what will come up. I rode the bike today for one hour around the university of south florida, heavy traffic, tons of lights, the fans kicked on at 225 as they normally do. ZERO idling issues!!! Haha, I cant believe injector cleaner made that much of a difference! I filled up the tank with 93 and the one bottle of inj cleaner. I still need to research the TPS adjustment/valve info from the manual, but hey, so far so good!

Refuel with Ethanol free fuel 93oct+ if possible.

 

[Numbers]

Refuel with Ethanol free fuel 93oct+ if possible.

Manual calls for 87 here in the states. I know Europe uses a different akr though. Anything ethanol free is good though.

 

[jsp1990]

if he has powercommander 93 aki is min. I only use high octane on all my vehicles.

 

[tory ii]

Manual calls for 87 here in the states. I know Europe uses a different akr though. Anything ethanol free is good though.

no; only 90 octane or higher

 

[theblank]

PC has been disconnected and I noticed that it doesnt back fire as much when I lift off the throttle.

 

[Numbers]

PC has been disconnected and I noticed that it doesnt back fire as much when I lift off the throttle.

If you don't have smog plates installed, some pop on decell is completely normal. Less is a good thing though, depending on perspective of course.

I left the air injectors on mine because I like making popcorn. And I'm lazy.

 

[jsp1990]

europe is minimum 91 oct but, ethanol free is best till now

 

[Svennie]

Haha, I cant believe injector cleaner made that much of a difference... I still need to research the TPS adjustment/valve info from the manual, but hey, so far so good!

Not familiar with the bike. Don't know if the ECU is a learn kind of processor. The way the idle cut off electrically, seems like when you let it idle, it sort of learned and doubt the cleaner changed it. I would also not touch the TPS. It's set within a range and will code if moved.

Your question to the bike is:
1. Does it fire right off and idle? Yes.
2. Is the throttle response smooth at all openings? Yes.
3. Don't touch [the TPS] it.

Codes:
As mentioned, clear the codes. Too many sound phantom like and are considered 'soft.' When cleared and resets to the very first code, that's your 'hard' code set. I'd start there. But then again, the dash would show a CEL kind of flashing.

 

[Numbers]

Not familiar with the bike. Don't know if the ECU is a learn kind of processor. The way the idle cut off electrically, seems like when you let it idle, it sort of learned and doubt the cleaner changed it. I would also not touch the TPS. It's set within a range and will code if moved.

Your question to the bike is:
1. Does it fire right off and idle? Yes.
2. Is the throttle response smooth at all openings? Yes.
3. Don't touch [the TPS] it.

Codes:
As mentioned, clear the codes. Too many sound phantom like and are considered 'soft.' When cleared and resets to the very first code, that's your 'hard' code set. I'd start there. But then again, the dash would show a CEL kind of flashing.

The tps being out of range on the low end is a known cause of a lumpy idle on the 07-08 platform IIRC. Another common reported cause is the throttle body sync. Both the tps values and the throttle body sync should be verified if you get a lumpy idle and have changed spark plugs.

That's why I mentioned reading the tps values in my post above. I didn't just say it to say it, a lot of end users reported the issue and said it was resolved with tps adjustment. If your idle is lumpy, you should check it.

The throttle body sync should be checked as well. It can cause a lumpy idle. Sometimes things leave factory imperfect or move out of spec over time. Just a fact of life.

I just wanted to clarify this.

 

[Svennie]

According to my hacking of computer bikes, some books say that the TPS is preset at the factory and it not to be touched. They give a closed/open spec you should be within. The movement is very slight and if bumps out of range, it sets a code. Ask me how I know?

I do remember the suz adjustments about seeing double zeros and set to a single zero? But if we are still setting TPS and cures a glitch, I would sort of question it on one side is the hack side, then think old style busa and that setting to check.

Let me ask you this. Is the yammie a learn computer with relay? Triumph, like some cars, has key off, relay set and within 5 or so minutes, the relay is triggered off after learn has been cacl'd out. Because I see a relay in the parts page, and it says 5v as part of the parts description and thus the thought of Tri learn procedures? Figure you might know this answer.

 

[Numbers]

According to my hacking of computer bikes, some books say that the TPS is preset at the factory and it not to be touched. They give a closed/open spec you should be within. The movement is very slight and if bumps out of range, it sets a code. Ask me how I know?

I do remember the suz adjustments about seeing double zeros and set to a single zero? But if we are still setting TPS and cures a glitch, I would sort of question it on one side is the hack side, then think old style busa and that setting to check.

Let me ask you this. Is the yammie a learn computer with relay? Triumph, like some cars, has key off, relay set and within 5 or so minutes, the relay is triggered off after learn has been cacl'd out. Because I see a relay in the parts page, and it says 5v as part of the parts description and thus the thought of Tri learn procedures? Figure you might know this answer.

Everything is on the base map home spice. If you were not suppose to adjust the tps on the Yamaha r1 the adjustment procedure wouldn't be outlined in the manual.

If I understand the operation of the denso ecu on a stock 08 correctly, it does not have a learning mode. I'm open to being corrected as I've never seen it actually spelled out anywhere and I've only skimmed over the ecu operation because I've never had an issue.

 

[Svennie]

Noted. Thanks on that. I remember back in '99 when the Busa came out and had to preset that first thing. I see nothing has changed if manual on the R1 has the basic same procedure. My current non-yammie bike is fixed and states not to touch the factory setting.

Is there the latest [year] pfd file shop manual? I'd like to see the code pages. If you say yes there is, then I can search around for it. If no... thanks on that question being answered.

I somewhat had to self train myself to FI, where I took an attempt at reverse engineering understanding a processor. I hacked into about 9 (running) codes to figure out what each code meant? Still on a learning curve. Removed the secondary flies and stepper motor out of a set of throttle bodies. Could shut the stepper motor code off by moving the sensor to its range without throwing a code.

Therefore, me bad, applying what I thought would be the same from denso to denso.

 

[Numbers]

No sweat homie and I could be wrong, I'm open to correction as I stated before. My understanding is that it uses the sensors to compare the conditions to the base map and find the best spot on the base map and then rechecks something like 300 times a second. Maybe more maybe less. It also controls the butterfly open and close with the servos for the primary and secondary butterflies to keep from getting confused by the operator opening them and just looking at the sensor value.

The service manual is in the mechanical help section on the board under the 07-08 section with a sticky.

I took a job at a motorcycle shop because maintenance was eating me alive on 5 bikes. I got what I could learn from there and used the money to buy tools. Now I'm building a customer base. I have only been doing this stuff for about a year, but I'm extremely mechanically inclined and I had quite a base to work from from working on vehicles in my youth and being a machinist for a few years. On the electrical side i build up my base knowledge in the hvac trade for about a decade and then the dairy service industry for 5 years. I also picked up mig, tig and stick welding doing dairy service work and am sanitary tig certified.

I figured I'd share some background since you did even though my background doesn't exactly move the thread forward.

Edit: changed co editions to conditions. Fat finger moment. My apologies.

 

[Svennie]

Thanks on the sticky. Like you I wanted no one to touch my bikes so I'm more a backyard hacker. Lifted the hood up on a processor and all this crap that does not apply like truthtables, and/or/nor gates; and it just snowballs from there it's just over my head.

But that's what it took when I was shocked when I went back to riding and what is fuel injection? So from '99 till 2006 I missed the transition. Had no clue what a TPS was back then and moving that till the dash read 0-0. But with the processor and all that binary, I joke and say... 'The bike starts at 0000." In other words, pull the ground off the battery and go back to ROM.

And I am limited in the tech, so I choose certain posts I like that interest me. That's: no codes on the dash. But saved codes on the download. WHY? And that's why I'm here thinking the soft vs. hard, and hard means digital input. Analog input is no code.

As far as I'm concerned, analog is in play at all parameters. NPF... no problem found.

So for this bike, no codes at the dash. A simple fuel clean took care of what I thought was electrical and am wrong. I learned something. This bike does not learn is what you're saying, and probably where that relay is headed on the wire page. I shall soon find out if they both tie in like a Triumph.

Thanks again.

 

[theblank]

Not familiar with the bike. Don't know if the ECU is a learn kind of processor. The way the idle cut off electrically, seems like when you let it idle, it sort of learned and doubt the cleaner changed it. I would also not touch the TPS. It's set within a range and will code if moved.

Your question to the bike is:
1. Does it fire right off and idle? Yes.
2. Is the throttle response smooth at all openings? Yes.
3. Don't touch [the TPS] it.

Codes:
As mentioned, clear the codes. Too many sound phantom like and are considered 'soft.' When cleared and resets to the very first code, that's your 'hard' code set. I'd start there. But then again, the dash would show a CEL kind of flashing.

Ok great, that's good info to know. I need to clear the codes and recheck.