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'02 Airbox to '98-'01 Conversion

3.7K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  yamaguy  
#1 ·
Brought the hp digital home this w/e to take a few pics on how I converted an '02 airbox onto my '00. Also converted the box to breathe from overtop of the rad in effect creating a "ram" style box.
First pic shows how the diaphram and float bowl vents are hosed together for installation into the box. This is necessary to compensate for the pressurization the box will undergo at speed.
 

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#2 · (Edited)
Next pic shows the airbox bottom installed onto the carbs. The '02 manifold holes need to enlarged slightly to accept the larger cv carb adapters, but they are close. Silicon was used to ensure a good seal.
Note how the vents protrude up through the bottom. The vents need to pressurized on the intake side of the box instead of the filtered side, through previous testing I found that installing them on the filtered side would not allow them to pressurize properly due to the drop across the filter. I think this fact causes a lot of tuners grief when it come to tuning their aftermarket boxes. Doing it this way ensures correct pressure balance in the system, and from that point all you need to do is find the proper main jet and set your needle just like a non pressurized system.
 

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#3 ·
This pic shows the intake funnel made from galvanized sheet steel. It will be inserted through another short funnel I attached to the front of the box after removing the plastic deflector and enlarging the intake.
 

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#4 ·
Installation of the funnel into the box and overtop of the rad. Note the o-rings used to help seal the vent tubes.
 

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#5 ·
View of the intake overtop of the rad.
 

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#6 ·
View of box top installed.
 

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#7 ·
Tank on and ready to go. My carb settings are 147.5 mjs, Factory Pro needles 3rd notch, main air correctors plugged, airscrews 3.5 turns out, custom velo stacks (as seen in previous pictures).
Addition of the box made a good improvement in power over the stock box based on road testing, it pulls redline much more quickly in the higher gears than it did with the stock box. I would estimate the horsepower gain to be in the higher single digits, the improvement is not as dramatic as say adding a full pipe to a stocker but it is close.
Hope you enjoyed.
 

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#9 ·
Good job, met any of those gixxer 1000's with your new setup? The only thing I would change on your setup is the vent lines, they are sticking straight up and are asking for road debris to fall into them. How about a couple elbows to prevent that? Have you got a dyno run planned?
 
#10 ·
Hi Bender, havent run any G1ks yet but a dyno run is planned hopefully for next w/e. I have some other engine work done, hoping to be in the 165-170hp range (although my engine builder says his dyno is stingy). We'll see.
Not a bad idea on the elbows, I'll even try angling them toward the rear to keep the lines as clean as possible.
Thanks.
 
#14 ·
tie those vent lines together and use a K&N crankcase breather/filter on them. Let us know all about your final tune and any observations on changes to drivablity that occur. Nice job.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Idhr1, driveability is good, there is the dreaded 3.5-4.5K rpm full throttle stumble, but the power curve is very good. As I said previously it makes and keeps the power on longer than it did before with the stock box (this by the way is a characteristic of all ram-aired bikes).

It starts, idles and putts around town just fine, in fact in some areas its smoother than before. All in all a cheap mod that works.

As far as putting the K&N filter on you have to be carefull overfiltering the venting air. Any pressure drop will cause the bike to react poorly, the vents need to receive all the pressure they can to keep a proper balance. I have tried this and this is the conclusion I have reached. I did try putting elbows on and facing them toward the filter instead of the intake, they should work ok and be a little less prone to dirt that way.