Whom would you believe, the engineers who built it or somebody else?
Or to put it in other words, why should Yamaha instruct you to do it wrong?

 

interesting enough I was reading through the manual for my '04 last night. Under break in all it really suggests is avoiding "excessive load" and "Prolonged high RPM running and excessive heating" with in the first 1600km. I don't see this as being all that different form the "Mototuneusa" method. Surely this opinion is open for conjecture (as i'm sure it will be). Mototune suggests several controlled "Pulls" @ 60% 80% and 100% with cooldown periods in between. Woiuld this not seem be simmilar with Yamaha's manual? Or at least acceptable.

 

Treat her like a new girlfriend, no bad behaviour for the first bit, be gentle and polite...

Then after a while get her drunk drag her out the pub by her hair and take her home for a good rough shag in the wrongen !!!!!!!!!!

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

SORRY COULDN'T HELP IT....

 

interesting enough I was reading through the manual for my '04 last night. Under break in all it really suggests is avoiding "excessive load" and "Prolonged high RPM running and excessive heating" with in the first 1600km.

Very interesting, is there no mention of keeping the rpm's below a certain level for x number of miles? If not then go ahead and ride the bike like normal, just don't go on any top end runs.

 

Very interesting, is there no mention of keeping the rpm's below a certain level for x number of miles? If not then go ahead and ride the bike like normal, just don't go on any top end runs.

From the manual
0-600mi Avoid prolonged operation above 7000rpm
600-1000mi Avoid prolonged operation above 8000rpm

 

Hmmmm, I think the key is "prolonged operation"...... i.e. no top speed runs.

 

English lesson:

What is i.e... (like in greg's post above)

Thanks.

 

Whom would you believe, the engineers who built it or somebody else?
Or to put it in other words, why should Yamaha instruct you to do it wrong?

You speak as if there is only one correct way to do something . Afterall , The space shuttle was built by the top engineers in the world but look what happened . Even they need a lesson in real world conditions every once in awhile >g< Something that would be a good compromise for everyone's riding style had to be decided on to put in the manual that's all . dosen't mean it's the best or the only . If you have a major problem (which is extremely rare ) they are gonna try to F^#k you on warranty anyway no matter how you treat it .

 

Whom would you believe, the engineers who built it or somebody else?
Or to put it in other words, why should Yamaha instruct you to do it wrong?

It's a conspiracy!!! The :fork engineers really work for the "other" manufacturers and want your R1 to be down on power when you dyno them/race them.:lol :lol :lol

I will be using their method anyway.

As for the English lesson...

I.E. means "for example", but I have no clue what the letters stand for!:blush

 

English lesson:

What is i.e... (like in greg's post above)

Thanks.

In Example

 

i think i.e. is a latin abbreviation, Id Est which means that is.

 

RIDE IT LIKE YOU PLAN TO RIDE IT AFTER ITS BROKEN IN. JUST AT LESS FREQUENCY. IN OTHER WORDS RIP IT BUT NOT THE WHOLE TIME YOU ARE ON IT. IT HAS ALWAYS WORKED FOR ME. TAKING IT EASY HAS A TENDANCY TO MAKE YOUR BIKE SLOWER . BUT TO EACH HIS OWN. I RIDE MY 04 LIKE ITS BROKEN IN ALREADY AS I DID MY 03 AND HAD NO PROBLEMS. BUT ALSO I USUALLY PUT 1000 MILES ON MY BIKE IN 3 DAYS SO MY BREAK IN PERIOD IS VERY SHORT. I HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM USING THIS METHOD.

 

Don't ride 'em at all. Just set them up in your living room and put caution tape around it so no one will touch it.:sneaky

 

English lesson:

What is i.e... (like in greg's post above)

Thanks.

id est

adv : that is to say; in other words [syn: i.e., ie, that is]

 

You speak as if there is only one correct way to do something . Afterall , The space shuttle was built by the top engineers in the world but look what happened .

The Space Shuttle was built by the lowest bidder, and a certain percentage of the bids had to be awarded to "minority" bidders regardless of their skills or affinities.

I don't think the space shuttle is a good analogy.

 

You speak as if there is only one correct way to do something

Did I write this or is this your interpretation?

If you just read, without interpretation, then I just said "don't do anything the instructions forbid".
As I am still waiting for my 04 R1, I had not chance to see those instructions so far and what is forbidden.

 

P.S.
In my eyes the mototune method still does not make any sense, specially not the "only in the first 20 miles" and "if you don't abuse it it will never bring full persormance".
This is just nonsense and if I find such nonsense I get sceptical about the whole thing.

 

As for the English lesson...

I.E. means "for example", but I have no clue what the letters stand for!:blush

Incorrect :finger "for examlpe" is "eg"

 

My buddies 600rr says to avoid prolonged rpms but doesn't limit it to a certain level. All of these bikes are designed in the same basic way yet you have different break in pereoids for different manufactures. What gives?

I will ride it in short durations at all different rpm levels for the first few hundred miles then change the oil and then do the same basic things for the next few hundred miles then change the oil and let fly.

 

more blah blah blah..

breakin process is nothing but a urban legend.. show me some dyno sheets of identical bikes on the same DYNO at the same TIME that went through DIFFERENT breakin procedures to show that one is better than the other.. and then i'll have some faith in doing it other than how the manual states..

other than changing the oil REGULARLY does any 'secret' breakin methods really matter???

if other breakin methods really made that much of a difference.. wouldnt EVERYBODY do it.. why would the engineers who put years and millions into developing the bike cheat themselves outta "FREE" horsepower..

then again

im sure some people want to make sure they get 181HP instead of 180HP because they did the super secret breakin method..

 

herehehehehhehe

 

just bounce it off the rev limiter a couple of times

 

We have been through this a few times. I think that the main issue here has to do with Nikasil and or ceramic composite lined cylinder wall. These walls are very hard and have to be honed with a special diamond tiped tool. I think that mototune's point is that the honed hatch pattern wears down very quickly and therefore, it is very important to ensure that the rings are fully pressed against the walls during the first 20? miles. In other words, hard on the throttle, hard off the throttle. This is really no different than the old method except that before it did not matter that much if you were initially a little slow with the load-unload cycles since you had plenty of miles to get the rings seated. Don't lug it, don't maintain the same rpm for a long time.

All other parts should be broken in as usual.

The above is not gospel, but is the best that I have been able to determine so far.

Mototune makes fun of the heat cycling issues, but, I think that this is wrong. From what I have read, there is some value in heat cycling with progressively more stress on the engine.

 

From the above posts, it seems possible that the verbage for the euro manual and the us manual may be different.

Does the euro manual mention anything about keeping the engine below 7000 rpm?

 

From the above posts, it seems possible that the verbage for the euro manual and the us manual may be different.

Does the euro manual mention anything about keeping the engine below 7000 rpm?

I was thinking the same thing:fact