Additional details:
•Bike is mostly an 08
•But most of the sensors are from the 07
•Ecu also from the 07
•Bike has full toce system and flashed with according map
•Bike is throwing up alot of error codes
Here are the error codes along with what I think they correspond to
D61
13 intake air pressure sensor
17 exup valve
18 exup valve/servo motor
19 potentially ecu coupler
22 air temp sensor
30 ignition coil 1
59 open or short circuit detected
60 throttle servo motor

Again: I have almost an entire bike worth of extra parts if something needs replacement such as the air sensor in the left intake that I already fixed. But I just don't know what else has to be done or if the error codes are actually relevant or were just because it was completely taken apart. The code 22 was showing up on screen even out of diagnostic mode so thay was the first thing I fixed. But the code is still there in the diagnostic mode so I am unsure whether they still require action.

 

Clear the codes in diagnostics and restart. See what throws and update here.

This sounds like the tps to me. Check the values in the diagnostics. It could also be the throttle body sync.

Good luck.

 

Clear the codes in diagnostics and restart. See what throws and update here.

This sounds like the tps to me. Check the values in the diagnostics. It could also be the throttle body sync.

Good luck.

So I checked D01 is at 16 and when I twist the throttle all the way it goes to 99. Is that all I have to do? I read somewhere that D07 is important, but it is at 0 and when I twist the throttle all the way it stays at 0.

 

Have exactly the same problem with my 08 track bike. Bought it with PCV and the map installed on the bike was set up when the bike had different exhaust fitted and some other components that I cannot be sure what exactly. From what I can see I have exup valve connected but the butterfly inside the exhaust has been snapped off and O2 sensor delete is fitted. Bike has no fault codes and the only way I can stop the engine from stalling is to change the map to stock, only then the bike runs normal. My solution is to get the map retuned for what you have on the bike now but make sure there is no fault codes stored. TPS fault cannot be excluded in this case.

 

I was more thinking an air leak. Bike starts too fast to be an out of sync TPS. If Seth wrote down the codes in that order, air leak would be 13 or first one... disclaimer being not knowing for sure. Then codes clear? Then idles? No conformation of a no air leak, nothing wrong with a piggy if applies?

So I'd assume if no hard codes on the clearing, and the stall clears? It was not an air leak. Interesting runnable limp. Only Seth knows for sure.

 

The tps and the throttle body sync are known to cause stalling on the 07-08. If you search the forum, you'll find loads of threads. I've had mine stall on me a couple of times. It happens. Also, no codes.

An air leak is plausible, but, something about the devil you know. I go with known issues first.

 

Yes, I know about the reset. And shit, I missed my step. Vac would have sent the code. Vac leak would be like sitting in the garage is the intake sensor = 14.7. I played with leaks on FI and she cuts out quick. That was my guess on my empirical data. Caught the clear so it couldn't be a leak.

Well, seems I need to understand why yammie, and do not know if this applies to Suz and their exhaust stepper? Probably the basic reason why I sign up is to view the telemetry and their coding of different manu's. Why just yammie and the reset? My k-book says not to touch, factory set and all that breakout and it codes anshit; you go moving the visible slot for that adjustment. I've moved it ever so little and it breaks out and sets the code. WATT gives?

I remember first year busa had this [0 --- 00] and you had to zero out back to 00 to do something? But I'm on a current 02-k; 20 some odd years later and it's a do not tamper written all over it. I'll figure it out.

Which reminds me. I'll walk a theory I have no clue about, but I already found a sync job ala 2-stroke style. Probably has nothing to do with it, but if I reverse the engineering, laugh at the shittyits removing the stepper, I don't give a flying wave length and their out of control air speed, but for stepper to step pit up?

You and your armchair psych job, dish is a fucking brain exercise on the reversing. Seems I lay out the type, shit hits me. If I had this pile, I'd set the TPS, set the stepper cables at the same time. **** if I'd have any slack in the cables. I'd be on the raggedge of bind. Now my Tea Pea Yes, that's the ticket; I time the rheostat to the stepper.

Here at Squid City Stockers, we ride the short bus to the races, picking up cheer trophies, racing wit 'step disablers.' Yes, we clean house switch uses shittyits. Step in front of that Disable; fucking GP still uses it, hello?

 

Yes, I know about the reset. And shit, I missed my step. Vac would have sent the code. Vac leak would be like sitting in the garage is the intake sensor = 14.7. I played with leaks on FI and she cuts out quick. That was my guess on my empirical data. Caught the clear so it couldn't be a leak.

Well, seems I need to understand why yammie, and do not know if this applies to Suz and their exhaust stepper? Probably the basic reason why I sign up is to view the telemetry and their coding of different manu's. Why just yammie and the reset? My k-book says not to touch, factory set and all that breakout and it codes anshit; you go moving the visible slot for that adjustment. I've moved it ever so little and it breaks out and sets the code. WATT gives?

I remember first year busa had this [0 --- 00] and you had to zero out back to 00 to do something? But I'm on a current 02-k; 20 some odd years later and it's a do not tamper written all over it. I'll figure it out.

Which reminds me. I'll walk a theory I have no clue about, but I already found a sync job ala 2-stroke style. Probably has nothing to do with it, but if I reverse the engineering, laugh at the shittyits removing the stepper, I don't give a flying wave length and their out of control air speed, but for stepper to step pit up?

You and you armchair psych job, dish is a fucking brain exercise on the reversing. Seems I lay out the type, shit hits me. If I had this pile, I'd set the TPS, set the stepper cables at the same time. **** if I'd have any slack in the cables. I'd be on the raggedge of bind. Now my Tea Pea Yes, that's the ticket; I time the rheostat to the stepper.

Here at Squid City Stockers, we ride the short bus to the races, picking up cheer trophies, racing wit 'step disablers.' Yes, we clean house switch uses shittyits. Step in front of that Disable; fucking GP still uses it, hello?

Sorry, I am not sure I understand. Would you mind dumbing it down for me? Thanks so much!

 

Due to all the moisture in the pipe the exup servo struggled alot

I'm a WD-40/Mr. Goodwrench chemical user. GM uses it to free up rusty/stuck mechanical things on the car's emissions. Just as impressive is WD. Those would be for a test I have yet to do. But match carbon cutting at the end of the exhaust ends. Who cleans better? That solved, then down/up the shaft pivots and loosen those up.

I have ATF around so I'll be using a sandwich bag, snip the corner; over the cable; rubber band up at the top of the outer cable end, pour just a little down so it comes out the bottom. Hang cables, etc.

 

Nope. Not about to dumb it down. You ride a computer bike, you want to work on it, it's just the nomenclature used. I'll just rant the page load. What is there to figure out?

Think of nature as a balance. Everything works off of nature. Air pressure, moisture, electricity, heat, you name it. Apply it to the bike. Take what you don't understand, pick one of natures handcuffs you can't get out of = Answered.

What I said? I said, stay stock. You do not mess with a computer bike. Everything is formula, and everything is balanced is OHM'd. That is why something codes it is out of a formulated balance that you breakout of. If 1-2-3 is within spec, you touch something and think you'll have some advantage to a tune let's say, you move it to 0 or 4 and it breaks out, sets the light fandango on the dash... Can't f*** with the formula, cant' f*** an ohm in the balance. You are handcuffed.

You have a balance of air going in and air coming out. 14.7 went in, a spark to light the fuel, heat expands the still 14.7 air captured and when out the exhaust valve, 14.7 exits. Flap on [TPS throttle plate] Flap off [stepper's air gate] = Exploited Balance of air/heat/for just a second or less.

So you want to balance both plates and since it happens so fast on the throttle plate action, you want to match that air-in/air-out and exploit the cables that way and I haven't touched the computer bike, but a blade matching blade.

WOT's today's air exchange rate? Even money, honey.

 

Stock headers, cat-less y-pipe and toce slipons

 

Then the tune should be fine. You could take it to a shop and ask them to put it on a sniffer, but, I'll bet you a dollar to a donut the canned tune is close enough.

Hey, is that swingarm off your spare setup any good? Want to part with it? If so, hit me up in a pm bud.

 

But if you think its the throttle body sync I will do thay first.

I'm just a tune up guy, not a tuner. Big difference. I refine the tune however. Don't need to go thru that just yet. Get the bike up and running.

Done in sequence or next step is to:
1. Set valves: You do not want a false reading so you just go in, take an .002" and if it goes thru, no tight valve. Don't waste your time setting the valves just yet.
2. Check compression: Now you know whether to spend a dime on this or not. Leakdown is an easier read, but say you find you are 10% between cylinders? That's teardown and is it worth it? I mean the rebuild of breaking even once all is said and done, or the rest won't nickel and dime you like the freshen up did.
Leak percentages:
1-2% - Race ready to right out of the crate.
8% - Race teardown.
10-15% - Production pushing it overall performance limit wise.
16% and up - Hard starting to no starting.
3. Set valves. Says the compression is within limits in the book.
4. Sync throttle body. If you were out of the 10% window, you'd be cranking the one body bank against the other and how out of sync does that look? But if you leaked even compression numbers, the sync is hardly a screw move between both plate shafts.
5. Oil fitter change. Cut open the filter and check to see short of dropping the bottom pan on the engine and note the debris on the plate and/or filter pleat.
6. Air cleaner. Replace every 7,500 miles. Cut the book mileage in half. It might say 12-15k.
7. Lube. Everything. Levers, pegs, cables, pivots, etc.

 

^this is what I would do, in this order. It's a lot of work, but totally worth it.

 

.... as the old one was a little bit sharkfinned.

Perfect explanation... I'ma gonna steal that. Home he here at home, I hand grease with marine grade STP, or whoever is the cheapest on the shelf. The packing up on the swingarm and back wheel is going to be a chore, but it just wipes off with a paper towel... every 300mi. using Trip A. Trip B is for oil changes every 3k; and in the record book, it averages out to 2,700k. Beautiful hardware, wink-wink. Can't pull the chain back from the horizontal line of the axle. Can't push on the one rung, yank on the other and watch flipper wag those fins. Teeth looks perfect to me w/22k.

... the bike idles way smoother and... the left most pilot screw was all the way screwed in while the others were about 90⁰ out...

Ha. Recently booted off some site when I mentioned I'd be tuning the carb dis way, an dissed the crap out of the gurus giving me the WOT4, when all this chit hit the fan, it was my way or the highway with these forums. Booted off 2 just weeks ago... for sport LOL

Anyway, back to either fun... why I didn't think about this long ago was me with an AFR meter, some meguyveering over to a hobby shop and came up with an 'on the fly' [syncing], was hand adjust the low screws. Say cylinders 3-4 are for vapor emissions and that tank being a closed loop. Those are open for the vac pump in and the vapor out of the charcoal canister to cyl.4. And this is where I thought of more sync smoothing.

Then I saw how the throttle body is made with the stepper motor in the middle. Two cast bodies and machined for throttle plates on a single shaft. I am going to close the lows so no screw turn is going to add to the plates centering to each other first. Once that sync is out of the way, I select the lows as to how rich/lean I want to go. Full rich is all I can go. But this is for idle blending and more smoothing and that's as far as I can go sync wise... My way.

Find a 1/4 out on each body. Tap that hole wise, where does the thread start if we clock where the tap starts? So a 1/4 out is off by a thread start and you now dial in those air screws to each other = Smoothing even more. You're not there yet.

__
Here is how I walk up to any bike and set the valves on any 4-storke:
1. I watch the intake valve go down, and when it comes up, I have to watch for these timing marks somewhere at the end of the cams. Sit on the bike and left cylinder is #1 to time cams usually on assembly. These line up with the line-bore-caps. Once machined are those half caps, they may have codes who matches where, but do not mix up parts meaning on the shim work.

2. I now read the service sticker on the frame and look for the clearances for in and ex lash. The high/low in the book means to find the center number as your valve lash clearance. That is ideal performance. I on the other hand go after the loosest clearance by the book's breakout numbers.
a. Center is for best performance.
b. The tight gap is for fast in-out speed. At high rpm the speed event makes HP. It's not more air, it's how fast can you move the air in sooner? Porting the walls. Straighten out the port curve. Thus, today's head where you can look down at the intake valve with a straight port.
c. Wide book gap. This is for a touch more diminishing power before the ex valve opens, plus more cool time on the valve sitting there with the wide gap opening later.

3. The feeler gauge reading. This is the 'go-no go' system. Again, [fas] and the easy numbers; say book are the min/max gaps of 1-2-3. I have feeler 2 and that slides in and can feel the oil between them. Notice the range you can be in. Now you choose feeler blade 3 and it should not go in. That's the system. If nothing fits under 1, that's a tight gap. If 3 fits in between the cam and shim, that's book breakout.
a. I cannot stress how much stress is on that feeler bending is none. When she's dry and you have arm pump, you bring out the lube and in he goes kind of push of that feeler.
b. Squids force the 'no go' with their back LOL. Shittyits on youtube go watch.
c. As if a shark bite, ever so push the blade and it does not go in... Done.

Your blades should look straight as if new. That's go-no go.

Timing Marks:
There are 8 valves that are going to be measured once you find #1 TDC >>> watching the intake go down, then back up. Just look for the 'heel' of the cam [the fatter looking egg side], where the cam's 'toe' is up; you look for those on the other side of the 3-4 cylinders.

Then watch #4's intake go down and then back up, you'll see those horizontal timing marks [at the cam caps], where the timing marks now face each other. Now #4's in and ex valves are set and the other two on the 1-2 side are set.

Cams coming out are; find a V and a W and make it down the center. Home he here does not need some cap open lining up the walk up. I find top gear and jerk to the line's out at the caps [for #1], then pump the wheel to the lines facing each other [for #4], I then roll the one cam up on the chain, and set on the head somewhere. More time saved is all.

I already know my pre-gaps of all 16, and when I know that row of 8 and who needs to gap where? I choose the shim for said gap. The cam is rolled back and the marks have yet to jump off link. The cam horizontal lines up... go-no go again and again if the blade BENDS. Torque to spec, one cam side done. Repeat the other side.

An aftermarket shim kit is my wallet saver. Guessing same jobber the factories uses?

 

keep us updated if you need more help