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I'm running a 200/50 dunlop q3 on an R1M (original 200/55) So far no issues has come up, no codes and electronic aids are working fine.


*** incase anyone runs their bikes on a rear stand in gear, you will get code 69 pop up. It clears after you first take it out. Code 69 is the front wheel speed sensor no signal so no need to worry about it!
 
I'm running a 200/50 dunlop q3 on an R1M (original 200/55) So far no issues has come up, no codes and electronic aids are working fine.


*** incase anyone runs their bikes on a rear stand in gear, you will get code 69 pop up. It clears after you first take it out. Code 69 is the front wheel speed sensor no signal so no need to worry about it!
When you get that code try to change your settings
 
I just follow'd the instructions in the service manual to clear it.
Not the most logic way...but it worked (I cannot just take a ride, since it's track-only)
 
No....it's all done via the dash.
The procedure fort getting into the diagnostic mode on the dash is:

Setting the diagnostic mode
1. Turn the main switch to “OFF”.
2. Disconnect the wire harness coupler from the fuel pump.
3. Simultaneously press and hold the up button “1” and center button “2”, turn the main switch to “ON”,
and continue to press the buttons for 8 seconds or more.


Or do you have a different manual?
 
GUYS ***** the code clears itself after 20sec of real road speed no need to worry! I just mention that if you run the bike in gear on the stand it will set code 69 but it will clear itself immediately after you take it out for a spin on the street.
 
GUYS ***** the code clears itself after 20sec of real road speed no need to worry! I just mention that if you run the bike in gear on the stand it will set code 69 but it will clear itself immediately after you take it out for a spin on the street.
We all got that. What you didn't get is that going "for 20 sec of real road speed" doesn't help you when you on the track, your session is about to start and you need to load your new settings.
 
I spoke with my Yamaha buddy and inquired about changing the tires AND the brakes. He spoke with a Yamaha test rider, and he said that the electronics were designed/adjusted/calibrated to work with the two *2) tires RS10 and Pirelli (cant recall the model). He also stated that if i changed the brakes (Brembo) and left the ABS that the system WOULD work however the system would react differently, since it was calibrated to work and respond with stock calipers.

He didnt try it, but he inquired (test rider did) and that was the answer he got from the techs
 
I wanted to try a 190/55 Q3 vs. the stock 200/55 RS10 for two reasons:
1. $$ the RS10 wears too quickly on street (1000 miles in SoCal canyons)
2. I wanted to see if the Q3 would turn in faster on slower canyons roads.

I too was concerned about the Traction Control calibration.

Here are my findings:
The measured crown circumference of the (worn) 200/55 RS10 was 2025mm.
The measured crown circumference of the (new) 190/55 Q3 was 2040mm.
-both on the wheel ready to ride.

This is a nominal difference and we can assume the RS10 was closer 2040mm when new.

My Data Logging is turned on and I downloaded the Y-TRAC app the other day onto my iPad. Very cool!
I can see that my relative speeds between my front and rear wheel remained consistent during logged (street) sessions before changing to the Q3 and after, for the same stretches of road. So the translated sensor data front and rear did not appear to change. This remained true at 0 to 45 degree lean angles. Since the ECU must look at RELATIVE wheel speeds for the purpose of imposing TC, I'm not concerned about the effect of this change.

I know this isn't very scientific, but it's better than guessing.

Further, I'm not sure how tight the TC calibrations are for wheel circumference, or if the production R1 ECU is calibrated differently than the R1M, but there has to be some tolerance for wear.
 
Not wanting to hi-jack the thread, but I've seached to no avail; if you change sprocket sizes on the R1, how does it affect the TC etc?
It doesn't, because the sensors are on both wheels, opposite to the older '12 model where the rear wheel speed is read from the camshaft sensor (derivated).
 
Ok, that's good to know. How come then there's a concern with different tyre sizes? If the TC works off the front and rear wheel sensors and the slip and wheelie etc works of the brain thingy, then why does a different tyre size confuse things?
 
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