When you fitted the smog plates, did you blank off the air connection from the airbox???

 

I am wondering the same.

If you are putting on block off plates, you should completely remove the AIS pump as well. Save a pound or so.

But at min you should block off the hoses as well as the holes in the airbox.

 

hmm subscribed. and waiting for an answer

 

sounds like you're running on 3 cylinders?

 

Yes I blocked off the air box. Not running on 3 cylinders because I don't smell excess unburnt fuel and it revs pretty smooth. Could this be just the normal Yamaha tick or needing to get the valves adjusted?

 

OK, did you remove the whole AIS system or block off he hoses that go to the AIS pump?

How many miles you have on her?

 

Not sure if I could really hear it, but the bike didn't sound too out of the ordinary as far as the idle noise. You can drive yourself crazy listening for ticking noises on the R1 - especially when you first fire it up.

As long as you have maintained the oil properly and not abused the bike, then I wouldn't worry about it. The valves shouldn't be due until another 10K or more miles (I forget what the manual calls for, but I wanna say about 25K miles or so).

Do you track the bike? If so, then you may need to adjust the valves sooner, but it's hard to say.

What oil are you running?

Ray

 

Removed whole ais system. Oil is rotella t6, puralator 14610 oil filter also tried a wix motorcycle filter didn't stop it. I have only had the bike since 9k and have only tracked it twice.

 

I use Motul 5100 10W40 oil on my bike and a K&N oil filter. Also a magnetic drain plug.

It's been a while since I removed the air injection system on my bike, but I vaguely recall a hole you have to block off on the bottom of the air box.

When you installed your smog block off plates, did you remove the reeds in there and then put back in the little plate deal with the gaskets or how did you handle the block off plates?

Ray

 

Does it run properly at every rpm point? Take it to each rpm 2,500...3,000...3,500...4,000...4,500....5,000..5,500....6,000 and up at each rpm point and see if it is running and accelerating properly from each rpm,if it is I would take on the highway and give it a good run for 25-40 miles,not beating on it just changing rpms and checking for proper power and acceleration,if it quiets up your cam chain tensioner might have not been putting enough pressure on the cam chain,if it does quiet up I would run it quite hard to make sure it stays that way (tensioner could have been sticking a little bit) higher oil pressures should make the cam chain tensioner engage the cam chain more making it quieter possibly,good luck with it and post any findings back.

 

Over the off season the only things I did to it was put the stock exhaust with race baffles back on

check that you put the headers back on properly and that the copper gasket is not damaged. My bike had load ticking like yours from a leaking header

 

you hear it too



Do you hear an exhaust leak too?,I wasn't sure I was hearing it right at first because video sound quality isn't too good, but if blockoffs are not sealing with the reeds removed it can make an exhaust leak noise because thats what it would be an exhaust leak !

 

1 ya it runs smooth throughout the whole rpm range I however did not get on it because I was afraid.

2 I did leave the reed valves in when installing the block offs. I tightened down them bitches pretty tight .

3 I have never removed the headers but I was thinking it could be that. I can hear the sound the most when I'm listening from right in front of the radiator.

 

Cut off a ~ 3 foot length of garden hose and hold it up to your ear - use that to pin down the location of the sound. When you get right on top of the source, it should sound like it's ticking right in your ear (if it's an exhaust leak I mean).

Does the sound tend to go away when the bike is warmed up?

Ray

 

RayJohns hose trick idea is a good one to do,did you run it at all before doing blockoffs ? If you did and didn't notice the sound,I would say the blockoffs are making the sound. Not too likely but you can check the header nuts on cylinderhead and make sure they are tight.

 

No it doesn't go away when it's warm, I'll try the hose trick, I'll put a plug in the other ear too just so it's more clear

 

Found it. When I installed the ais block offs I must have tightened them down too much and that caused them to bow. The noise wasn't an exhaust leak because I lest the Reed valves in there it was valve train noise from sound leaking out past the plates. Just ordered some driven plates now I have to do that install all over again, oh well at least I found it. BTW that hose trick is a great idea for finding any noise, thank you.

 

That's great that you found it! Good job!

yeah, that hose trick works pretty well.

I almost mentioned that I wondered if you might have over tightened things (since you mentioned you torqued things down real hard), but I didn't think you could put enough pressure to deform / blow the gaskets around the reed plates, because I seem to remember them sitting down in a little pocket sort of.

Anyway, glad you got to the bottom of it. Be careful over tightening those allen head screws that hold the plate on. I seem to recall they are only 6M size, which isn't that big - especially if you are threading into aluminum threads.

Ray

 

good sleuthing, congrats.

 

Cool,glad you found the problem. Now go ride that bitch like you stole it ! (she will love it btw) ....they always do !

 

Alright here's a little update I got the new plates in the mail and noticed a recess on the back side of the new plates . Not knowing what.this recess was for, as my other plates didn't have these. I took the old plates off and noticed that on top of the reed valves there were two little screws sticking up probably to hold the hole thing together. Since the old plates didn't have this recess when I tightened them down they bent and couldn't seal because of these screws. New ones on no problems at all.

Moral of the story mod cheap, mod twice. I thought that some simple plates could be ebayed after all they were just block off plates, wrong. I emailed the seller not even asking for my money back just to let him know about the flaw, no response . If you do buy these you must either take the reed valves off entirely and silicone around them or cut off those two screws protruding.

Don't buy the ebay block off plates.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-sm...-R6s-/400279149197?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5d327f1a8d

These ones are probably ok
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Smog...-FZ6-/110818051618?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19cd454622

 

hey guys, i bought an r1 2003 , got it from the USA, its got 8000 miles on it, runs very smooth on high and low revves , gears engage well but on idle theres a slight ticking sort of noisr, is this normal??? pls assist

 

I have a 2001 with 41k and it does the same thing I have read that its normal but I'm still a little worried.

 

Don't want to alarm anyone but I've just had my second potential valve-drop of my bikes life at 29k miles. First was at about 20k!. I say potential as I've not had a chance to look properly, but both times it's happened around the time I got some bad ticking that increased with RPM.

I won't bore you with all of the details but I bought it second hand from a dealer, no doubt someone had thrashed the bollocks off of it as 2 months later it dropped as a nasty tick started. queue lots of PTA arguing and transporting it back and they finally swapped the head for a "used" one.

Now, at 29k miles and after it started ticking again at around 25k it's dropped another valve (potentially, although I'd put money on it, currently dropping the engine out of the bike in my garage a day at a time). Even Yamaha listened and the bloke said it sounded just like his and he never had a problem...

I love my bike to bits (lol) but it's a bit of a money pit!

Just a fair warning to anyone with ticking, I hope it's the infamous Yamaha R1tick but always be prepared!

Matty.