[Minitruckbiker]

Hello all, I haven't been on here long but ai've been messing with this bike since November 2013. I was hoping I could get some help as I'd really appreciate some outside insight on what to possibly do.

I have a 2006 R1 Raven, it was crashed and I've been rebuilding it. I got it all back together(from the parts I had and some new) but when I fire it up, it idles really high. I just put the radiator back on today so maybe there is some air still trapped in the cooling system? It did get a new head, timing chain, coils, plugs, and I switched it back to a stock exhaust. It also had a Power Comannder III on it which is not on it anymore.

I have plugged the PC3 back in to double check and it didn't help. I rechecked the timing and its dead on. I'm going crazy trying to figure this out. If someone may be able to point me in the right direction I would truly appreciate it. Thanks for your help in advance.

 

[Silas]

Might be a silly question, but since you didn't mention it...

Did you check the idle speed screw? It's a gold-colored screw that hides just behind the fairing (by the rider's knee) on the left side.

Make sure it's connected (attaches to the throttle body assembly), and make sure it's adjusted correctly.

Report back when you've checked that....

 

[Minitruckbiker]

I am pretty sure it's turned all the way out. Maybe it's not attached though like you said. I'll check when I get home from work. Thanks for the quick response.

 

[Kangaroo]

it's the white knob on the left side of the engine right above the sprocket cover.

 

[Minitruckbiker]

Alright, that idle control screw wasn't even attached. I will thread it back in when I get home from work tonight. My question would be, if its not threaded in at all, wouldn't it be idling really low, if not at all? Turned all the way in, shouldn't it idle really high? Maybe I'm confused and have them backwards but I'll return with an answer as soon as I get it together.

 

[Silas]

Alright, that idle control screw wasn't even attached. I will thread it back in when I get home from work tonight. My question would be, if its not threaded in at all, wouldn't it be idling really low, if not at all? Turned all the way in, shouldn't it idle really high? Maybe I'm confused and have them backwards but I'll return with an answer as soon as I get it together.

It's a really stupid (in my opinion) design honestly. The idle is adjusted by a screw on the throttle bodies. That screw is connected to the knob above the sprocket cover by a rubber tube. Ultimately, wherever the screw on the TBs is sets the throttle speed. If you're spinning the knob but it's not attached to the TB screw, you won't have any effect on the idle.

Connect the rubber tube back to the TB screw, and adjust from there. You'll probably have it sorted out.

 

[Minitruckbiker]

I saw how the knob and "cable" is supposed to work. I do appreciate your input. My confusion was about what way it's supposed to be turned to turn the idle down. On my dirt bikes, you'd turn the idle screw out and it would die down some as opposed to turning it in and increasing the idle speed. So I figured, if my logic is right, without the idle screw being in at all, the bike shouldn't idle regardless. Yet it idles around 3-5,000 rpm and the screw isn't even in the TB's. I get out of work soon and should be working on it. I'll thread it all the way in and adjust from there. Can't wait to not lose that little spring and washer while trying to install it

 

[Silas]

Mine works as follows:

Clockwise rotation of the knob increases idle speed.
Anti-clockwise rotation of the knob decreases idle speed.

I can't answer your question about why it's behaving as it is at the moment.

 

[Minitruckbiker]

Alright, I appreciate it. Maybe it's something other than the screw messing up the idle right now. Won't know till I get it threaded back in

 

[Silas]

Alright, I appreciate it. Maybe it's something other than the screw messing up the idle right now. Won't know till I get it threaded back in

I kinda doubt this is it, but another thing you could check is the throttle position sensor. This is another thing that may have been impacted by removal of the TBs and head.

You have a PCIII so you can plug into your computer and view the voltage reading on the TPS. This is a good way to check things out without too much effort.

 

[Kangaroo]

:lol get it back in there!

 

[Minitruckbiker]

ALRIGHT! I got the screw back in... But it didn't help, at all. At first it was idling around 2000 which is better. I have it a quick burp of the throttle, it stuck around 3500 for a sec then dropped down to 2000 again. Was going pretty good, I thought. Then I went to turn it down(anti-clockwise as stated) and it seemed to go back up. Tried turning it the other way just to see and it didn't help anything. Maybe I have a vacuum leak? My biggest concern right now is coolant rather than idling. If it won't stay dry it's not worth messin with it running properly right now.

NEW ISSUE: I put a new radiator on it since the old one was smashed. I have the lines connected(that I can see) properly. Not sure where a couple go and I'm having trouble figuring them out. The Haynes repair manual I have doesn't do anything to help run them where they are supposed to go. Not sure if I have one not connected or if the lower end gasket is leaking between the head because as it warms up its leaking REALLY bad. I've been looking at this thread(http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300484) to get an idea of where they run by I'm at a loss now. I know I'm changing it up but I'm getting pretty frustrated with this bike. I was hoping after I got the head replaced and it ran that it would be some small stuff to put back together. Boy was I completely wrong. Thanks again for all the help. I really appreciate it.

 

[shiftn3rdon1]

Prop the tank up, and physically look at the needle at the end of the idle adjustment screw and see where it's going when you turn it

 

[Minitruckbiker]

I have the idle adjustment hooked back up where it's supposed to go. Surprisingly enoughX I figured out the coolant leak and need a new upper rad line. The plastic piece, evaluate one of the "pins" that stick out of the side is cracke and leaks. After I filled it with water(knowing its been leaking coolant and not wanting to waste more) it actually idles around 1,800 now and should be around 1,200 from why the manual says. I talked to the guy at the dealer while I was picking up some parts. He told me it may be a TPS. Both the primary and secondary are the same part number so I it doesn't fix it when I change oneX I know the old one would be good and could change the other 'at be that will help.!/9'eone want to chime in on that? I have read a few threads about the 04-05 having idle issues and it was because of the TPS and it was a recall. Couldn't have been lucky enough to get it replaced on my bike for free though...

 

[shiftn3rdon1]

I know it's hooked back where it's supposed to be, but prop the tank up and use a flashlight to see where the adjustment needle at the end of the adjuster is actually making contact with the throttle bodies. Back it off till you see a gap. This should bring idle down. It takes a quite of bit of turn to make a change

 

[Minitruckbiker]

Oh ok. I wasn't trying to sound like a dick. I'm really frustrated about this lol I'll take the tank back off tomorrow before work and see where it's at. I know when I put it back together, I screwed it all the way in so I wouldn't have to worry about it coming out. Just don't want to back it out too far and have it come out again.

This is how far I've gotten on putting it back together so far. A lot better than when I first got it.

 

[shiftn3rdon1]

You don't need to remove tank. Take off the seat, and bolt at the front if the tank. It looks the two side bolts are off already. Just lift the tank back and use a piece of wire or something to hold the tank up. I wrap a piece of wire through the front hole and then pull tank back and wrap wire around the bar under the passenger seat

Ok, now follow the idle adjustment screw through the frame and locate where it connects to the throttle bodies. Should be directly in the middle of the rear of the throttle bodies. That's where you can see what your actually threading in and out to make the adjustments. If you look closely, you will see the tip making contact with a tab that controls the throttle bodies. Back the screw out till it's not touching then adjust from there. DONT KINK THE FUEL LINE

 

[Minitruckbiker]

I guess my question would be, currently it starts and idles around 1800rpm. It seems after it warms up, I can burp the throttle quick and it will drop back down to 1800. But when it starts getting really warm, it creeps up to 5000. Then it will stay there till I turn it off. But the fans don't kick on either and it gets really hot. No check engine light though. I'll get that adjustment taken care of in the morning and return with an answer.

 

[Kangaroo]

good gawd, check the tps as well.