It's in the service manual bud.

If it were me, I'd take it to a machine shop and get It cleaned up, then I'd measure it and check for eccentricity, then I'd order bearings, then I'd verify fitment with plastigauge, then I'd order a new set of rod bolts, button her up, and send it.

 

Thanks for the help mate just found the service manual. Is there anything else I should do to the engine now that it’s open up maybe some head work ?

 

Yup. The world is your oyster.

How much money do you want to throw at it? I'm betting by the time you price out the bearings and a new set of rings, you call it good. I'd adjust the valves and sync the throttle bodies though, since you are in there anyway.

I'd also take a look at the transmission dogs. Maybe get them undercut.

 

would it be worth porting the head?
maybe take some material off the head to get more squish.
what will getting the dogs undercut do ?

 

Just run a thinner gasket or split the stock gasket bro. These things are already wound up tight. Hell, you already spun a big end. You can deck it and you can degree the cams in to get some more bang, but then you have to take it down to a dyno to get the most out of it. Starts to add up in a hurry.

So far as head work, hell, that's the cost of a used motor right there. And stock these things are brutal fast.

Undercutting the transmission will let it fall into gear more aggressively. It can help mitigate damage. If you are going to take the bike to the strip it is a must, otherwise, it's just handy.

 

I’m happy to throw some cash at it if I don’t have to buy a new crank I’m planning on keeping the bike for some time.

now that the engine is open I might as well do some work on it to get some more go out of it .

 

Do some digging locally and at the track and see who the trusted names are in your neck of the woods. If you port and polish, you are going to want to get new valves to go with the bronze seats. So that's a full set of valves and at least 1 extra new intake valve to lap them in to the new seats. New valve keepers. New valve stem seals. Might want to get the cams and buckets dlc coated. That's some serious cash right there. Oh, and adjustable cam gears.

After that, you might as well get a new set of premium rods so that you can get the most out of the motor without fear of repeating the spun bearing. That's another fair chunk.

If you do deck the head and run a race gasket, be sure to talk to your machinist first so you can see just how much material you can skim without kissing piston to valve.

It would still be expensive to leave it stock and do the maintenance of the valve adjustment but it would cost substantially less. For the return on investment you would get building the motor up, all I can say is, if you are not road racing and actually competing at the top level, it's overkill.

Maybe get second gear cut, adjust the valves and sync the throttle bodies and replace the big end and main bearings and the rings. That will probably hurt your wallet plenty. Especially if you are worried about the cost of a crank.

To actually build the motor up is at least the cost of another bike and when the time comes to sell, won't add any value.

If this is your last bike and you just want the most premium of everything, it may be worth it to you. Otherwise, honestly, stock is fine bro.

 

Yeah I don’t think till be racing at the top level just yet I’ll take your advice and keep it pretty stock I’m gonna have to do some head work because the piston did come in contact with valves

 

Pictures?

 

 

Yup, that's a visit to the machine shop alright.

 

Sure is
Do you have a idea on what could of caused the bearing failure I got a woolich race tune on the bike less than 1000ks before it happened?
did they go to hard on dyno ? Or it just happens when chasing power

 

Sure is
Do you have a idea on what could of caused the bearing failure I got a woolich race tune on the bike less than 1000ks before it happened?
did they go to hard on dyno ? Or it just happens when chasing power

It just happens chasing power bro.

They are tight as a snare drum stock.

 

Yeah it sucks !!
So when putting in new bearings I should go the looser end or the plastic gage scale ?

 

Na, just put it in the window. Stay on top of oil changes and use a good filter and you should be fine.

 

Dam the crank is cooked.
Any chance you can send me a screenshot of the journal spec I might of found a second hand crank for a cheap price ?

 

You sure that one is poked bud? It looks like it can be skimmed to me.

Here are some excerpts from the manual.

 

I put a micrometer on a good journal and compared the size difference to the damaged journal I didn’t know what the specs was but it was looked pretty bad

 

Take it to a machinist bud.

What did you get when you measured? That galling looks pretty light. Hell, I know guys that would just scotch bright it, slap a new bearing on and send it.

Then again, I am looking at it from literally half a world away, maybe it's worse than I think.

 

I took the crank to my mates engine reconditioning workshop because I can’t read a mic for shit he said there is no chance fixing it. The journal is almost oval in shape

 

Yea, if it's egged, you'll have to get it cut down, then welded, then recut.

Another crank is probably cheaper.

 

Just by looking at it I thought the same give it a polish up and send it but it’s a lot worse

 

Hopefully I can get some good info on this second hand crank.
going to have a look over the head in a couple days and that will be the next mission

 

Pay extra close attention to those valve on (unless I'm mistaken, the angle is not very good) intake on #3 and their valve guides. Last thing you need is the valve guide to be cocked and wear out the stem and drop the thing in the cylinder.

 

Thanks for the heads up mate !