Update: Found out only the black wire is getting hot going into the rectangle harness on the CDI.

I also learned a few seconds ago that you’re NOT supposed to apply dielectric grease to the contact points or in my case INSIDE these electrical plugs ? I’m beginning to think that’s one of if not my main issue.

 

EDIT: The orange wire is also

 

I’ll just keep updating with my findings till someone can help me figure it out lol

So the black, orange, and grey wires going to the CDI get hot along with the corresponding coil which got so hot it started melting the plastic on it. Also the harness for the main switch gets hot mainly one of the red/white wires which also gets pretty warm at the fuse block. The only other wire I can find getting warm is the brown/blue one going to the main harness which is coming from the ignition I believe.

Mind you.. this occurs using the old (2nd) CDI that already melted a hole in it that I’m only using to isolate and troubleshoot the issue. When I use the original CDI that came on the bike the grey wire def gets the hottest with the orange and black maybe getting warm but hard to tell.. could just still be warm from using the other CDI.

 

I know I don’t have R1-Forum stumped do I?

I put the old oem coils back on and put the CDI on that came in today.. it was starting to get hot with the old coils but so far I can’t feel anything getting hot yet. I only was able to get it running for a little while though because I forgot I unplugged the RR. I’m waiting for it to charge up enough to start again and I’ll see what’s going on now.

 

I've been keeping up with this thread but don't have anything useful to add. Hopefully that new cdi works out for you. Just letting you know you're not being ignored haha

 

I've just read your thread, but not sure exactly what's happening. It does sound like you have a couple of faulty igniters - the ignition isn't CDI.

The factory manual has good diagnostics for the electrics, the one for the ignition might help.

 

99 R1 Ignitor Getting Hot (nightmare)

Yeah I guess it’s TCI? Thanks for the responses.

So yesterday I got it running and even rode it around for awhile with no problems other than pissing off the neighbors with it being loud af since I cut the exhaust off lol. I felt the ignitor after the ride and it was nice and cool.

I’m not sure if it was the dielectric grease that I was too generous with applying or the new ebay coils I bought that were the issue or a combination. I also found a pin broken off in the main harness that I fixed but I’m pretty sure the ignitor was still getting hot after I fixed the broken pin and cleaned all the grease out of the connectors, so I’m betting on the ebay ignition coils being the culprit.

I see why going through proper troubleshooting steps is so important because I was just replacing parts that weren’t bad and didn’t even know where to begin.

So far so good though I think.. once the new exhaust and tires come in I’ll register it and ride it for real and we’ll see.

 

We Forum member appreciate u sharing ur thoughts and braking it down for us to read and learn from it. In case someone else as the problem. Like it was stated i have no idea what could be wrong. But i do appreciate u spilling the beans :lol

good luck! :thumbup:

 

Yeah no problem I’ll def update once I’m sure it’s fixed. I hate reading through posts with similar issues I’m having and they don’t update with the solution.

 

Soo.. a little update. As stated before with the new (ecu, ignitor, tci) it’s finally running.. a little on the rich side.. which idk how that could be when I’ve cleaned, adjusted, and synced the carbs multiple times following instructions on here but we’ll deal with that later.

Right now the issue I’m having is the battery not charging. The stator, rectifier, and battery are all new but like I said before I’m still unsure if the rectifier is wired correctly because when the new one came in I wired it according to the manual and it blew the main. I wired it according to other posts and it doesn’t but I know it will run with it wired wrong.

My question is say it is wired wrong, would that cause the stator to go bad? It was a pain in the ass replacing that stator so I hope not.

 

I finally went and bought a new multimeter and continuity tester because I kept getting various readings. Turns out the stator was bad must have grounded out somehow but it was still putting out around 50 ACV. I found out by one testing it for continuity which it failed, and I unplugged it from the R/R and wired the R/R correctly and hooked the battery back up to see if the main 30A would still blow and it didn’t.

New stator came in yesterday just gotta find the time to install and then we’ll tackle this rich running issue. :thup: