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A and R Baffles

31K views 299 replies 73 participants last post by  jaykreide  
#1 ·
Just installed the A and R race baffles and punched out the cat. Holy Sh*t. Sounds incredible. May even be too much. Nice deep idle is what I like the best...:)
 
#2 · (Edited)
I finally broke down and ordered mine yesterday, I will be running it with a gutted cat that I bought from another member. I was tired on waiting for the y pipes to come available and I do like the look of the whole stock set up. I also have an order coming from McCoy's with the Custom LED Complete rear light with integrated signals and some front flushies. It is about time I get modding this thing :rant
 
#4 ·
Thanks Bogie, you just supported my decision. How bad is the gurgling and popping unpon deceleration?
 
#6 ·
It is my understanding that the smog block offs will elminate most the of problem and then a PCIII will clear up the rest. Is this basically how you see it?
 
#13 ·
I have an 02' R1. I installed a A&R baffle also. I love the sound by the way! Should I get the PCIII also? I know the idle isn't steady. I am planning on buying a K&N air filter also. I checked the dynojet website, and the maps are either stock exhaust or brand specific. What Map did you guys use for the A& R baffles? What else should I do? or can I do? Thanks in Advance!!!!
 
#14 ·
Yup they are great man! i kept my cat but i cut the pipes 4 1/2 inches. Loud!!
 
#15 ·
i was going to pay a lot of $$$$$ for a full system and PCIII. But I can't wait to do this mod. with the race baffles and gutting the cat. thanks again for the info, this forum is the deal.

i'm going to dyno stock and then afterwards when the tuner does a map, I'll post some charts here one day.
 
#17 ·
A tip not in the instructions for anyone doing the baffles. Put the seam at the top.

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I am getting ready to do this in the next couple of days. I assume you are speaking of the seam in the baffle and it's orientation to the top of the can. :dunno How does this tip help :dunno
 
#19 · (Edited)
Yes, its for looks, the seam will show if on the bottom. You may not care but you would have to rip open the cans and swap the baffles side to side to correct. Test fit when you get them, they work one of two ways, seam up or seam down. Might as well do seam up. This is not mentioned in the instructions. Here are mine with seam up, not visible.:)

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#20 ·
Got it :yesnod thanks for the advice ... something like that would have driven me nuts after the fact :rant
 
#22 ·
:rant No Bogie it is called doing it right the first time :rant




and maybe a little OCD :lol
 
#25 · (Edited)
Ride it for a while to see if it corrects, if not I think you can adjust the idle on an 06.

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153587&highlight=hugh+idle

I added extra packing to each can. so, re-use the stock stuff and added 2 packs of V&H per can. I did not want it too loud and there is alot of room left in the can with only 1 pack. I haven't installed the exhaust yet, so I can't comment on the sound.

Its 50/50 whether Bogie got the baffles in upside down.
 
#29 ·
Well I started taking the cans apart tonight ..... that is a lot of fun. I am still on the weld removal / beat the hell out of the old inner. Does anyone have any advice for this part :rant
 
#32 · (Edited)
I used a drill for the welds. These welds can be larger than you think. Here is the trick. Look around the welds to make sure they are cracked-the two pieces are separated, all the way around the hole where the two pieces were welded. you should see a fine separation. If not, you have a weld still hanging on. You an use an awl or a screwdriver in the rivet hole to pry - Sometimes you can hear the weld crack when it releases. The key is to make sure that the welds have completely released. A whack on the exhaust tip may aslo release them, but if it is stubborn then you must have a sticky weld that needs to drilled out more. Once all the welds are broken the stock baffle will come out easy.

The first can that I did I beat the hell out of it also and it wouldn't budge. So, I checked each weld carefully and found that two hadn't released. Once I got those to give up the can came out easy.
 
#33 ·
03 tem, that is exactly where I am at, I have seams 2 seams out of the 4 welds on both cans. I think I need to work at them a bit more. I assumed I could break the last bit loose with a hammer, but that is a no go :lol I have been using a combination of drill and grinder.

Thanks Bogie I will keep that in mind. The wife after hearing my cursing screaming and multiple power tools, compressor etc, asked if the local dealer had cans in stock, cause it seemed like it would be easier to just pick up aftermarket cans. I first wanted to kiss her, than strangle her :lol I did however call this morning and our local dealer has no stock on aftermarket cans :sneaky :lol
 
#34 ·
:lol :lol I laugh because I will be doing mine within the next few weeks and I can see me now...:rant ....substitute horse for cans:horse: :banghead: :cryin ...and wife going...:no...why won't he just leave brand new stuff alone....