I've come to the same conclusion as you, it doesn't matter if i try to turn up the throttle even so carefull, the value from the TPS make a jump (and the throttle valves too).

I havn't found a way to get around it but the strange thing is that it doesn't allways do that (even if it's there most of the time).

I would like to hear of a way to get rid of this too.

 

Guys this is all down to the ecu! Its a combo of: fly by wire, premature shut-down of the injectors. Yamaha do a replacement ecu but you may have to kick ass to get it sorted! I just went for a "street version YEC ecu" this got rid of all restrictions plus I can get 100% throttle (cannot get 100% throttle on a stock ecu)

 

Yes, i suspected it would be something like that...

Thank's R1liam

 

this might sound dumb, i dont know, but does having had the (bazzaz Z-FI) plug n play unit installed eliminate whatever throttle restrictions a stock 08 r1 might have. if not ,what do i need lol, no but seriously

 

Not a "dumb" question at all! Most of the throttle restrictions are built-in within the ecu. Bazzaz just hijacks the fueling signals from the ecu and over-rides the fueling, giving the Bazzaz total control. This only eliminates fuel restrictions and fills "some" of the power dips. Bazzaz is much better than Power Commander in this respect. If you want to get rid of All restrictions, you need a "street version" yec ecu. There is a guy on eBay that sells them. After a lot of research into this, I came to the conclusion that the Jettflash ecu is only "half the job" compared to the "Street version" YEC ecu. My reasoning for this is that with "street version"YEC ecu, we the end user can decide where the restrictions are, or if any! With Jettflash ecu, you have to keep sending it back for re-programming.

 

Well good now I know what my next product will be. Thank u ...do. u know the sellers name on eBay by chance if not I'll find sumthin on Em. Gosh I love this forum, makes having an already bad a$$ bike even better

 

M.C-Racing. Just mention my name (for recomendations sake) Enjoy the power!!

 

I've been speaking with Yamaha AU tech support regarding my issue. When I asked about ECU issues, they said that we use a different ECU in AU and as a result we don't have the restriction issues that many speak about. I don't know if this is true, just passing on the info - I'll have a look at the part number on my ECU.

Is anyone able to answer my original question about TPS adjustment?

 

Here in Ireland, we got the same ecu as AU. From day one it was noted on this forum that various issues arising from the ecu, were shared around the world, to one degree or another. However Yamaha wouldn't admit to anything at the time. Added to the problem was the fact that some owners thought that they just needed to change the way they rode the R1 (drive it like a 2stroke). Later Yamaha informed the dealerships, replacement ecu were available on an exchange basis. Not all dealers agreed that there was even a problem, not even today! But be under no illusion, "all stock ecu" are "restricted" and race teams even use YEC ecu for this reason. Race teams also use YEC ecu for other obvious reasons too.

Please look at the sticky "ecu lag/replacement" on top of main page of 07-08 R1 mechanical help.

 

about 3k miles into my 07 i had a tps issue. i used the diagnostic mode to clock the sensor. there was a dead spot in the sensor where it would jump from say 9 to 13(not exact numbers just an example). i dont exactly remember the numbers. i set the sensor just above the dead spot. worked just as new until a week ago(12k miles). got an engine light. i have the same symptoms as before. im going to just replace the sensor this time.

also, at about 500 miles i had the dealer replace my ecm under warranty because of lag in second.

 

On the weekend just gone, I re-adjusted the APS to a starting value of 17 and TPS to a starting value of 17 also. I have not had any problem with the APS reading, but performing the same test you mention I had a dead spot, just off fully closed throttle, in the TPS. The adjustment took it just above the range where "most" problems occured, but I think a starting value of say 20 would have been better again. With the airbox lid off, I could see the valves jump open when the throttle was just cracked open from the off-idle position.

The result of the adjustments is a much improved response with less jerk in the throttle response. Today was the first day I really tested it in the real world, but it does feel better than it did. Time will tell.

Can you confirm what value is appearing as a dead spot / difficult to get a reading when you check DIAG?

It would be the tests for DIAG 1 and 13.

 

Of course there might be faulty TPSs on some bikes but i've tried to move both TPSs all around the place without making any improvement.

And as mentioned before, the problem isn't constant, sometimes the jerkines is totally gone but most of the time it's there

I've test rode the 2010 R1 last year and i think i could feel some of it there too.

Didn't Ducati have the same problem on some of their models with RBW too?

How's your bike Liam, is all the tendencys of "on/off" feeling gone with the YEC software? By the way, what RPM have you set for idle?

 

My 07 bike is running very well thanks. All that crap is gone for good!
The YEC flash makes a huge difference from 0% throttle and all the way up.
A friend of mine bought a stock ecu powered 08 two weeks ago, so we swapped bikes and went for a rip.

The difference was noted straight away. I was dropping down into my favorite bend, backed off the throttle... yep, you guessed it, injectors shut off just as I started to feed a bit more power at the apex. Almost decked his bike!!

The overall experience on the 08 is very good but compared to the 07 it doesn't impress to say the least. The 08 has a full Akrapovic, BMC filter amd Bazzaz fueling, so the only mod that is of any signifigance is the YEC flashed ecu.

The problems are inherant on the stock ecu and no amount of tweeking will fix them. The only way is an ecu flash.

My 08 friend was just so impressed with how the "street version" YEC ecu transformed the ride on the 07.He said "the power is so strong and the engine feels pro. tuned". But the engine is "stock".

I had searched, researched, splashed loads of cash to fix the inherent problems and restrictions, but in the end I could have just got the YEC ecu, fixed "all" problems and saved most of my cash.

 

R1liam you have a tendency to hijack every powermod thread with your "streetYEC"Ecu the last 3 weeks, lol

So, does your immobilizer work with the reflashed ECU?

 

R1liam you have a tendency to hijack every powermod threat with your "streetYEC"Ecu the last 3 weeks, lol

So, does your immobilizer work with the reflashed ECU?

Sorry about that, but it is the ultimate power mod. It de-restricts, makes more power, is designed to work with, and inhance any other power mod. If you research some of the pro. teams, you will find that the "stock" ecu is replaced with either YEC, Motec or some other brand. This is because of the "stock" ecu limitations.

One of the biggest problems with the R1s is throttle position sensor (TPS) and as the stock ecu is the cause, this is my reasoning for talking about the YEC. It just fixes all the problems and comes with extra benifits as a bonus.

As for the immobilizer, it "must" be dis-connected because the YEC doesn't support it (not used on track). My bike is a EURO bike and I had to disconnect
the imobilizer. However, for obvious reasons, I fitted an aftermarket alarm with built-in immobilizer, this workes every bit as good as the stock immobilizer and has more features too.

 

Last weekend I adjusted both the APS and TPS to a starting value of 17. After a week of riding I don't perceive any change in the jerky throttle when it is just cracked open.

today I checked the DIAG 1, 13, 14, 15.

On DIAG 1 and 13 the TPS at the new starting value of 17 is still "jumping" about 2 numbers so it is near impossible to see values 18, 19 on the display when turning the throttle. My sense is that this might be a symptom of the problem rather than a cause. When I try and slowly turn the throttle it is quite stiff feeling until the throttle valves open (I hear it) and it jumps from 17 to 20 on the DIAG 1 display.

Is this what your bike does? Can you (anyone) check the function in DIAG 1 and 13 and see if your display also jumps a few numbers.

 

Last weekend I adjusted both the APS and TPS to a starting value of 17. After a week of riding I don't perceive any change in the jerky throttle when it is just cracked open......

Is this what your bike does? Can you (anyone) check the function in DIAG 1 and 13 and see if your display also jumps a few numbers.

It's exactly the same on my bike, and i've tried to adjust the TPSs all around with no improvement.

Edit: Here is a clip that show the opening jump the butterflies make, no matter how carefull i twist the handle...
You can actually hear the butterflies snap open..
Ones it jumped open there's no problem to step up one degree at a time but from closed it's impossible..

Not hard to understand why my rear brake disc looks like it's 20 years old, only chance in wet and slow corners is to drag the rear brake when getting on the throttle. I'm getting real mad now just thinking of it, how the h*ll can Yammy accept this when they release a product???

 

R1liam - if you check yours now, what is the result? on DIAG 1?

Ozzian - that is a very useful vid, thanks for posting. Have you adjusted the TPS to a starting value of 20, as that's where it seems the smooth numbers begin.

I'm also keen to hear from anyone who can show that in DIAG 1 they DON'T experience this issue. C'mon people, have a look and let me know.

 

R1liam - if you check yours now, what is the result? on DIAG 1?

Ozzian - that is a very useful vid, thanks for posting. Have you adjusted the TPS to a starting value of 20, as that's where it seems the smooth numbers begin......

Yes, i have adjusted all over the range and it's not in the APS.
On my first -07 they changed both TPS and APS (because of the stalling) and it made absolutely no improvement to any of the problems..

As Liam already explained, it's in the software.
I went for a pretty long ride yesterday and a couple of times i experianced the throttle being smooth from idle and up but most of the times it's not..

Some get a little fixated with strict numbers for TPS values..
Yamaha allowe a pretty large range for the TPSs before any adjustment is nessesary, my experiance is that the ECU make a zero correction when ignintion is turned on (Thinking about it it's pretty logical ;-).

 

I set my TPS at 21 today which is above the values that I was having a problem. The bike wouldn't idle at all, so as soon as I backed off the throttle it would stall. I had to reset it to a lower value so it is still in the range where I was previously having issues. Interestingly, when at 21, I was able to show 22 some of the time, but 23 upward all of the time when testing in DIAG 1 which seems to indicate that TPS could have an issue on the carbon track at lower values.....

I'll call Yamaha Australia again tomorrow as I've been working with one of their techs on this issue and I'm intersted to see what he says.

 

Can you do a quick vid showing the result on DIAG 1?

 

Sorry, I don't have any way of making a vid yet!!

 

Having the same issue on my 03, checked the ohms and when I moved the throttle it jumped to 2.01 a lot, as I rolled through the 1.1ohm -2.0ohm range then worked linear to 5.45ohms. Did u guys find this? All I saw was diagnostic numbers

 

How do I adjust the TPS on the throttle valves? I know it's got a T20 or T25 security torx screw (can't really on top of my head), but I can't seem to fit my torx L key in the screw (the frame comes in the way). How have others adjusted theirs? Do I need to remove the throttle bodies to adjust it?
Any advice would be helpful. Cheers