Full synthetic Amsoil is the way to go!!!!!!

 

Respol is good for hot weather , r4 superbike is good for all other

 

Dont switch to full synthetic for no reason. It should not clunk with any oil. Going to semi-synthectic should be smoother shifting, so there may be another issue The downside of full synthetic, is if you are riding on a trip and need to put oil, you HAVE to add full synthetic...but i digress....if it persists to clunk (often), then its..gulp..internal.

 

I think I might know what your problem is. I never knew this until I read it on the forum either! Watch yourself when you crank the bike and you will probably notice that youve got the clutch pulled in. I would bet money that your not releasing the clutch and letting the tranny spin up before you try to go into gear. What makes the tranny shift smooth is the inertia or whatever in the gears. I used to wonder the same thing, because I would sit at a stop light and try to put it in gear when I got the green and it wouldnt want to go! The problem was that as I was sitting there in Neutral I had the clutch pulled in and the gears had stopped spinning because no power was going to the tranny. Now when I sit a stop light I either dont hold in the clutch or release the clutch while in Neutral just enough to spin the gears a little. Try this and let me know if it helps!

 

The downside of full synthetic, is if you are riding on a trip and need to put oil, you HAVE to add full synthetic...

Are you sure about that? I though synthetic was compatibale with regular dino oils. :dunno After all, isn't a synthetic blend a combination of synthetic and dino oils?

 

Ya, you're not supposed to go from synthetic back to regular oil without flushing it. You can always go up, but not back down. And I agree with Pegasisbd, when I first crank my bike with the clutch out, I can hear the tranny knocking. I usually pull the clutch in and out and rev it a little to get the oil going. I know the trannies good when their is no noise with the clutch out. Usually happens when its cold or the first start of the day.:beer :beer

 

I was talking with the service manager today at my dealership and he said there is absolutely no reason why you cant go from dino oil to synthetic and back to dino. That is just a rumor that was started. He said he had talked to reps at multiple different oil companies and all of them said that you could go to synthetic and then back to regular!!!

 

I was talking with the service manager today at my dealership and he said there is absolutely no reason why you cant go from dino oil to synthetic and back to dino. That is just a rumor that was started. He said he had talked to reps at multiple different oil companies and all of them said that you could go to synthetic and then back to regular!!!

Could just be a ploy to get some more service work form you with a blown engine later. Not all but most dealers SUCK.

BTW mine makes clunk when going into 1st.

 

was talking with the service manager today at my dealership and he said there is absolutely no reason why you cant go from dino oil to synthetic and back to dino. That is just a rumor that was started. He said he had talked to reps at multiple different oil companies and all of them said that you could go to synthetic and then back to regular!!!


Yes..after you flush it. But you are not to add to an existing synthetic:fact

 

There is no problem mixing non-synthetic and synthetic oils. They are completly compatable with each other. You will loose some of the benefit of the synthetic when normal oil is added though.

Also, clunking out of neutral into first gear is normal. Even when the clutch is pulled in (while in neutral), there is still a bit of friction between all the clutch plates that still allow the internal trans parts connected to the clutch to slightly rotate, while the internal trans parts connected to the non-rotating output shaft are not rotating. When the two are conntected together by going into first gear there will be a clunk. Normal, no damage done. Some bikes don't clunk because there is enough clearance in the clutch or there is enough friction in the trans to prevent any rotation. Also when the engine is cold the thick oil makes enough friction.

 

Opps! I forgot to add this pic of the back of a Mobil 1 full synthetic oil bottle. Notice - Compatable with conventional oils!

 

I am an Amsoil dealer and their synthetics are completely compatible with all oils. They state you should minimize the mixing if you can, but if you were out on a trip and were down a half court for some odd reason topping off with any other bike oil would be fine.

 

I switched to Amsoil at 6000 miles and I'll never go back to any other oil. Shifting at all gears is super smooth. It almost glides into each gear. No problems with clutch slippage either.

 

Opps! I forgot to add this pic of the back of a Mobil 1 full synthetic oil bottle. Notice - Compatable with conventional oils!

Guess that about sums it up. :thumbup I knew I saw that somewhere. Just couldn't remember.

 

Nice Job Farmer Tedd

 

Full synthetic Amsoil is the way to go!!!!!!

:iamwithst

 

NOT ALL OILS SAY IT ON THE BOTTLE BUT MAKE 100% SURE THAT IF YOU USE SYNTH. OIL IT DOESN'T HAVE MOLLY.
MOLLY MAKES THINGS REALLY REALLY SLICK AND IN MOST CASES THAT IS GREAT IF YOU PUT IT IN A CAR. BUT IN A BIKE WERE YOUR OIL LUBES YOUR CLUTCH, IT CAN KEEP THE CLUTCH FROM WORKING COMPLETELY AND CAUSE HARDER SHIFTING. IF IT WERE FULL SYNTH THAT YOU PUT IN, YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO SHIFT AT ALL.

GO TO THE DEALER AND GET YAMALUBE. IT COSTS MORE BUT IT'S WORTH THE EXTRA PC. OF MIND.

 

This may help. There is a whole thread on this that is a sticky.:beer

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=52259


:thumbup