Pretty cool, I've thought about buying one myself. AutoTune did an excellent job of tuning my bike in gear advanced mode, the only small problem I had was some of the trim cells in the 1st gear map eventually developed some odd/erroneous trim values. Imo this was caused by exhaust gas flow reversion, because it occurred in the lower rpm/tps regions.

I ended up telling AT to ignore those areas by putting zeroes in their target AFR cells, and I replaced the mapping values in those areas with values from the 2nd gear map.

The bike runs ridiculously fast, it's responsive, and smooth. I actually get better fuel mileage now than I did.

It would be cool to see what the TPS is doing and monitor lambda in real time.

 

yeah AT can generate some accumulative errors, you need to keep an eye on certain sections, at small TPS openings...
which at this point, lets be honest i have no idea what 20% throttle looks like, much less 70 or 80%... not really happy flying blind

thanks for chiming in n' posting the Vid, this is the 1st release of the product so i'll see if i can weasel my way onto getting a couple vids
for y'all...

POWERCORE SUITE SOFTWARE installed on main computer, ahhh, there's something familiar; WinPEP 8 Data Center, to help in plotting captured data...

 

Is there going to be enough room on the clip-on to mount the bracket?

I was actually just reading about these last week. Looking forward to a pic once you have it mounted and your review.

 

i have apex riser clip ons n' they're bigger than the stock ones... there's room on clutch side, thats where i put my gps mount...

*update, yes!! wow... what an incredible little tool... i instantly was able to tell where my AT mapping has left me hanging...
seems i'm actually making power much earlier than i thought, will have to sample/tune @ 2%4krpm, 5% earlier @3k as it seems i've been
running absurdly rich between 4k & 5500rpm... no wonder it felt sluggish on 4th gear runs... she's chugging on fuel :shake

as soon as i get into AT range though, things get much prettier n' she makes good power at 13.2AFR...
gonna try 13.4 at cruise (freeway) n' go at least to 13AFR on areas where i want to make power...

its funny, i was a little surprised, she purrs right along at 5 - 15% throttle all day long... barely ever see anything above 40% throttle on the street..

 

well, after session one and having had a chance to look at the 4 diff logs (2x3rd gear, 2x4th gear run), nothing crazy.. just roll on from 4krpm, keeping within limit on freeway..

this is my new AT-AFR table... just to get things going into a reasonable ballpark, accounting for cruising speeds so you're not breaking the bank .. keeping fuel consumption low...

hope this one helps anybody else out there, i feel its a good start point.. its a variation on ARROW FULL exhaust recommended AFR table.. :yesnod

I'm aware some are going deeper into 12.8afr which does make good power, so i'll play with ideas on the new season.. feel free to use/expand on it

 

Great stuff!

I was wondering, you're mapping for each gear correct? Are you blending fuel economy into each gear trim table or are you trimming back the a/f in just 5th and 6th gears? I see some 13.4's, which looks to be inline with cruising rpm and throttle position but I'm not sure if that's a first gear map.

I was running a 10 cell table and decided to try using a table with more cells, 22 to be exact. My line of thinking was a finer tune with more data for the PC to chew on. Any opinions or thoughts.

 

this is just a basic startup for mapping yes, my custom tune was done on 4th, should be tweaked for each gear
i'm gonna be dumping that onto each gear and tune from there... as i mentioned i will likely be tweaking this map once i have all gears down

1st gear barely gets used at all so its not a worry, it will likely stay at 13.2 or so.. likely will edit that one right away cause you're right i dont cruise on 1st :no

the 13.4afr you see, thats correct! cruising range on the freeway... likely to be filled in mostly on 3rd through 6th gear as i dont spend much time there on 1st and 2nd..

i'm gonna keep an eye on each map n' see what gets altered the most to make a decision of how to adjust their own tables :yesnod

I was running a 10 cell table and decided to try using a table with more cells, 22 to be exact. My line of thinking was a finer tune with more data for the PC to chew on. Any opinions or thoughts.

umhh.. 1st of all how did you do that? lol... i didnt know there was an option for expanding throttle position... but to be honest
from what i've seen autotune is pretty damn busy as i roll on through the throttle... i would be a little worried of the values
in such precise TP openings, but of course on lower TP openings you do see such values as 7%, 12% and so on often so it may help :dunno


come to think of it, i think Nels did mention this, he suggested it may work on certain levels, what i would do to accommodate such mapping
is take the 2% column and fill it in to the 3%... 5% column copy to 8%, 10% copy to 13%, 15% copy to 18% and so on... so as to end
up with column 5&8 with same mapping, 10&13, 15&18 and so on... basically doubling up on each column for auto-tune to fill in... then when
you start going through the bandwidth with auto tune; hmm you never know it may help smooth things out w/out causing so many
adjustments as you'd rarely hit both columns at same time, only if accelerating or decelerating i guess... hmm good idea :thumbup

 

I see your point. A table with 100 cells, one for each percent throttle position would probably not be good.

I'm not sure if I stumbled onto that 22 cell map and created mine from that or created one from an option. IIRC. Either way, I've attached a 22 cell zero template.

I would be interested in seeing your final map when you are done, if that's ok. I am curious how much fuel is added or subtracted based on barometric pressure with relation to sea level.

 

well i'll give that a try n' see what i get, worth a shot.... sure i'll post up b4 and after, i have seen the logs and it seems as
soon as i hit 5k rpm everything is being adjusted as it should be so AT is obviously doing its job :thumbup

something i'm noticing which will likely help in smoothing things over is the fact that there are now 4 extra columns
between 20% and 40%, and 3 between 80% and 100%... i'm not quiet sure where to place the values i've got from
my custom tune but i'll probably just keep the it the same 20-30% and 80-95%, with some tweaking for cruising & power areas

i just had a quick look at your afr table, there's no need to tune 1k rpm and below on any column as the ecu will handle
those, even on the 0% column i only tune 1k & 1250rpm for idling purposes.. also no need to tune above 13.5k rpm as
you will most likely be shifting at that point or damn close to.. my redline is now 14.250rpm n' i dont tune above 13.5k rpm :dunno

 

Indeed, you're right. Just a lazy man's way of populating a table.

 

yup, i've read that which is why i decided to stay away from anything richer than 13 flat.. as posted this AFR table is tweaked for best results with my current bandwidth
but it is what came with a downloaded ARROW full-exhaust PCv map from DynoJets own web site!!! i' feel plenty of power at 13.2 or 13.1 afr, some have taken the xplaner to 12.8afr though!

in response to your post pR1mal , i've adjusted the ABOVE map (updated attached image) and decided to increase the cruising range n' utilize a better arrangement of 13.4AFR

i have found often, you make the best power when the bike starts making hosseys early on in the rpm, according to the logs i got it makes very nice power @ 13.4 n' 13.2 alike :yesnod



:smilies7:

looks like the weather's gonna close in on us till Friday, should give me a little more time as i think i should run some SEAFOAM through with the gas,

should help me get better sample data to play with...

 

okay, so i had an early start on this since i've already got my custom tune on a spreadsheet..
took a look at things and have come up with an AFR table which does make a little more sense. Thanks!

this is an expanded pcV map with your 22 column settings, it is my original custom tune done for 3/4 Leo Vince EVOii factory with AIS block offs, ecuNleashed flash, all options including full access to closed loop

i had not done the airbox mod nor graves stacks at the time so it should be a pretty universal map, of course i requested a LV map be flashed in my ecu so YMMV, use with caution and a good 3 sessions on AutoTune for best results.!

i made some adjustments on the 2%,5%, 10-30% column on higher rpms as i was getting very rich readings and exhaust popping on deceleration...,

if you look at the bottom left corner on the 2% table (or 3% as it is now) 6250rpm onward & 5% 7500rpm onward, all 5s on those columns in a group used to be 10s...
also, 10% to 20% (or 10% to 30% as it is now) all zeroes at higher rpms starting 11k used to be 5s.. all of those ended at 13250rpm, hope that helps

gonna wire up my speed sensor n' calibrate for 6 gear mapping :fork

 

For what it's worth,


Posted by DynojetResearch,
"The values we put in the target AFR are a really good baseline setting. You will see that most of the maps have the cruise range a bit leaner and this is for fuel mileage. Usually on a dyno you will see the best peak horsepower numbers around 13.4 but this does not always mean the best performance in the real world. We have done a lot of testing with multiple AMA teams and we always end up around 13.1-13.3.

There is 1 top level team that always asks us to map their bikes at 13.4 up to 40%, 13.3 up to 60% and 13.1 up to 100% and they finish on the box most weekends."

 

well the, cant sleep so i figured out how to get a print of my logged 4th gear
the spike in afr is due to me having pulled the clutch iirc ..

okay, now the reason for a DJ POD-300; ... set that sucker to -2% [LOW rpm range, since i was running too rich] & -1% [MID range] FUEL TRIMs

AT was set to 13.2afr but i wanted to see if it helped to lean it out a tad n' she rode very nice

i'm pretty happy with that AFR line, i'm sure the new one will be even better... :thumbup

 

That's interesting. I pulled your map and put my map up against it just to compare some of the values. I see a lot of peaks and valleys in my map. Yours transitions through the throttle range much smoother, which is probably why you are getting a better response.

I still have a few more things I would like to do over the winter to my bike before I get really serious about tuning. The POD-300 looks like (imo) a must have if your serious about getting the most out of the autotune.

So, you can pull all the data directly to your computer, and set it up as graphs?

 

Yours transitions through the throttle range much smoother, which is probably why you are getting a better response.

I still have a few more things I would like to do over the winter to my bike before I get really serious about tuning. The POD-300 looks like (imo) a must have if your serious about getting the most out of the autotune.

So, you can pull all the data directly to your computer, and set it up as graphs?

yes that is something i was noticing, there is a view within the included software which shows fuel transitions in colors n' you're correct, its very smooth through the bandwidth..

the only thing i was not aware of is how early the R1 starts making power now, so ive had to adjust the map to suit it best!..

i'm very certain this new high resolution map will yield much better results as well, and yes its very easy to pull up logs.

there are 4 store locations in the POD, when you hook it up to the computer via usb cable and start the POD-300 manager it instantly pulls up all 4 logs
so you can choose to export them and save them onto the hdd.. once there you just open it up with the WinPep8 data center n' choose what graphs
you would like plotted from the different channels you've chosen to log... there's a print function which is how i got the above image.. couldnt be simpler :yesnod

:corn: subbed for discussion. I still haven't installed my autotune, but i'm very interested in being able to see live values.

exactly!, i grew tired of not knowing what the tune was actually doing, my buddy told me he smelt fuel when riding behind, but of course this meant nothing
as i could feel the bike making power as i went through the gears... the only area which was running rich was in low rpm's n' low TPosition, 4k to 5k basically..

this is the reason i found 4th to be sluggish off the line, as soon as i got down below 4500rpm n' tried to accelerate it chugged on fuel for 500rpm n' only later started to build power.. :shake

 

:corn: subbed for discussion. I still haven't installed my autotune, but i'm very interested in being able to see live values.

 

13.2 is what i tune for. No need to lean it out to cruise as I mean really? YOu hoping to save another 2 miles per gallon? Why bother unless you are a truck driver and use your bike to haul your load across country or something. Not worth the time and to risk leaning it out too much just to save a few miles per gallon. 13.2 across the board except down low near idle and very low rpm's i lean it a tad more as there is no real load on the engine.

 

well this is something that a local rider was trying to explain to me and i' figured i would give it a shot, he was suggesting as others have
in the past that an engine makes good power when you lean it out, ofcourse in this case we're talking only 0.2 points (i will be playing with the above map)
he suggested that, in theory we dont ride straight across the bandwidth all the time, we accelerate in the straights n' make power to peak so you def. need
good gas there, but when we come to a corner you cannot just keep accelerating, so you round down the throttle n' come back to a certain balanced
power, again in theory this would mean coming down to the 13.4 pocket, leaning it out and ready to make power, which of course you'll need at the apex
when you wanna come out on the other side, n' then you shoot out to higher RPMs and higher TP openings yes? its basically a circle we're doing over
and over... as you go out you are you're basically hitting up, going straight down the map into higher rpms and reaching for 13.1 at an angle, like an arrow right
to the bottom right corner, if you go WOT you're going for 13 flat... good power, good gas availability, every body is happy, but then you hit corner n' you
come back down in a circular manner toward lower TP openings n' eventually back out to lean 13.4 which of course you're likely not under very much load.

out on the open road for long hauls which btw we do get to do a lot of as the cool bits are spread out all over WA state & BC, if we want to take advantage
of them then you pretty much gotta be willing to sit at 5.5k or 6.5k rpm for good long jaunts, when i built a map completely 13.1 across it was chugging on
gas while i was cruising and though i had super twitchy throttle response, it really wasnt very much fun... a couple of times i had a tough time even making it to
the damn gas station as they're not always within 100 miles of eachother, red light was coming on roughly 100.. 115-125 miles to a full tank... yikes :scared

the question really becomes, in most of our rides, specially when touring country side or whatnot, can you make it to the gas station in less than 100 miles
(shitty 87 octane w/ 10% ethanol) or will you need some proper mileage so you can make it the 145-155 miles you need to ride to make it to the chevron? :lol
i was riding down in the Grand Canyon area a month ago, and i found myself puttin' along at 5k rpm in B mode hoping i would not get stuck out there, auto tune
was not running and i was set to 13.1 afr, lucky for me i wasnt breaking any land speed records at all that day so i managed to squeeze 160 miles, 45 of those
miles i often kept repeating "please just make it to the next town, i'll be good" :hammer:

the way i figure it, it was making nice power even at 13.4afr and it was not twitchy as fack... again, I may just adjust that area to 13.3 to be safe but
its apparent, at least to me that AT is not killing it and going too far into higher 13s, in fact i can also adjust by how much % it does adjust fueling,
currently only + or - 5%, but i can put it down to 3% in the minus (up 5% in the plus)and it will never go below 13.4afr at all :dunno

 

You always make great power, to a certain degree, as you lean it out. That is why the saying with cars is "it always feels strong before it goes pop". Just because it makes great power doesn't mean it's safe for it. That is why there is a difference between how racers tune verse street guys. They rebuild their engines much more often and often need a map that will secure a win even if it takes life off the engine. Keep it safe though on a street bike. You also don't have a dyno which is another great tuning tool. To truly tune a bike you need a dyno and an auto tuner. Assuming your bike will get stronger when you lean it out isn't always true, every bike is different. If you get a dip in the power band you may lose power leaning it out all while making the engine run less safe. Not worth the trade off and this is why racers use dyno's and auto tuners. You need both to truly maximize a tune.

 

You always make great power, to a certain degree, as you lean it out. That is why the saying with cars is "it always feels strong before it goes pop".

:lol

you make some very good points... at this point i've tested 13.4(13.3)13.2,13.1 n' 13 flat, they all have good spots n' bad spots,
i dont really beat on it if it doesnt feel right and i've yet to blow the engine :icon_wink:

but if i remember correctly i did like 13.3 better then 13.4, just felt a bit smoother so i will likely make those changes before i go try this map, still raining

after having spent some time looking at different afr tables i feel having a high resolution mapping n' varying afr values with
some flow to it all will likely yield the smoothest results on my bike.. i do want to make sure i get my 160 miles to a tank back though :yesnod

you're right though, my thoughts currently are to finish mapping out current changes n' getting it all down to each gear..
once i get my velocity stacks timing adjusted i will look to get the beast on the dyno n' tweak each map a little more carefully.
the trick is trying to find a dyno that is close to my region and riding area so we can make some changes, go ride n' adjust if needed.
having to ride 2 hours, into some pretty damn crazy traffic laden city tarmac isnt ideal.

Subscribed

I'm trying to learn how to tune. If anybody have any good videos on learning how to tune with the PCV, please post a link.

aye me too mate, im not one to just hand some $ over to someone else to tweak it for 20 minutes n' call it a day... I have to live
with the bike myself and imho we dont ride on a dyno, we dont just go from low rpm to WOT every two seconds, is you can see
from my log throttle openings change through the run, and yet rpms are still climbing and i was definitely making power n' moving
forward, i've been wanting to tune with a map such as this for a while but i had no idea how to build it, you're correct I wish there
was more information available out there on how to tweak pcV maps to yield the best results... :dunno

 

Subscribed

I'm trying to learn how to tune. If anybody have any good videos on learning how to tune with the PCV, please post a link.

 

13.2 at wot seems to be the sweet spot on my 03, measuring with a butt dyno. It just feels strong and smooth.

13.1 and 13 didn't yield an appreciable gain, they might have been a bit weaker.

My 1-5 gears have 13.2 across the board, 6th retains the lean afr areas of the dynojet factory map. Like I said, I'm still getting better than stock mileage.

 

You won't feel the difference between 13.2 and 13.3 as it's pretty much the same thing. When I'm talking lean, some racers and stuff will do 13.6 and 13.8, etc. They won't talk about it on a forum normally because some idiot will go off and try it on his street bike and blow it. The problem though, is to get that dialed in you really do need a dyno. You get a damn good tune with just the auto tuner, but you'll never get it perfect without both a dyno and a real time tuner. The dyno tells you where the flat spots are, curve, what your bike likes to make good power, then you use that data with a real time tuner to help build a map while the air box is pressurized, etc. Good tuning takes a lot of work and you need both tools. The average street guy won't notice the difference using one tool or the other and that is why most now prefer the auto tuner so they can do it themselves, retune it, and best yet many don't have access to a good dyno tuner. With dyno's, they are only as good as the operator and there are a lot of shit operators out there. I would only trust my bike on the dyno with a few shops.

With a wide band tuner plug in your afr and go tune and you'll like the results. Most do around 13.2 or 13.0. 13.0 would be a richer side and stupid safe. I do 13.2 as it's still safe and good power. To get any more detailed then that is just flying blind without a dyno. It's like trying to shoot a gun and after you bore sight it trying to make it more accurate without any sights or a scope on it. You're pretty much screwed. You need that dyno to get more detailed in.

 

ahhh, okay yeah i would not tune to 13.6 or 13.8... ive only idled at 13.8 and she felt happy there..

actually corey the map i'm tweaking was in fact done on a dyno, its a tweaked version of what Nels had come up with for the xplane
after having flashed a few of them.. i believe mine was the 7th or 9th r1 he'd tweaked with it..

so i have a pretty damn good base to start with, the original print shows he kept pretty close to 13.2 except for a little richer @ 8k & 10krpm
for a split second... i'll be honest though i do see lean(er) values just above 5k n' between 6&7k rpm, which is the area i'm talking about..
i'm pretty certain with an expanded mapping like i've got now AT should be able to make small adjustments n' get me pretty damn close to where i need to be...

i'm also not looking for every bit of hp as it does make plenty as is really.. the custom pcV map posted yielded this

 

Hopefully with everything you're doing, it will smooth out the graph a little.

 

ran into a little snag, high definition map takes up a good chunk of memory, PCV software does the math for you
as you change maps and lets you know what your device will be able to handle, so once you switch on advanced
GEAR FUEL tables, and advanced GEAR AFR tables the map file itself is too big for the pcV to run it.. meaning
the 22 column map would load on its own, but if i want to enable the separate gear maps, it wont run, kinda sucks;
pc software wont even let you save the file to transfer to the pcV itself... the only way i could get it to work is
if i went by 500rpm increments instead of 250!... which i think its going backwards so i stuck to what i know does work

i went back to my custom map with 10 columns n' left in all spots at 13.4afr (small cluster in cruising range) as i had them..
they work very well, this transition seems a lot more natural i had a chance to do a good run today and 3rd gear is so much
more rounded its a real pleasure to ride the beast again, i can see where there are adjustments needed in the low rpm areas
which are more than the 5% limit i've got AT set at i have pretty good idea of where i'm going with it now and am finding it much
easier to edit the individual gear maps as there just arent as many changes or Trims to accept.. its very smooth...

clearly deceleration was messing with AT every time i changed gears, whereas now it only reads and makes adjustment separately
for each gear and there are much less incremental errors, i can see this being a quicker route to fueling bliss

 

I was wondering if you'd bump up against the PCV's onboard memory limits.

For anyone watching and wondering, the PCV has enough internal memory to store two maps. However, if you add the AutoTune you lose the ability to store two maps, because the AutoTune stores it's tables in the PCV's internal memory.

Looks like,
PCV map as downloaded from DynoJet = 2.78 KB
The same map modified to have 22 cells rather than the default 11 = 5.86KB
factory PCV map advanced to become a gear advanced map = 12.8KB

Imo, gear advanced is definitely the way to go with AT, for the reason you stated. Since the fueling requirements are different for each gear, if you don't run gear advanced the AT will constantly trying to modify a single map for the different running conditions of each gear. It will always be chasing it's tail.

 

alas yes Noximus & pR1mal, gear advanced mapping is the way to go... i never had a chance
to see what AFR's looked like while riding previously so i really did not know what was what with a basic map...
i could only go by ear and she did start to sound good after the 3rd map i made, but i always found 2nd & 3rd a little weak.
not totally gutless but they definitely checked out a lot sooner in the rpm range than i would want to..

no such thing anymore, so many thoughts swirling around in my head, doing gear advanced mapping is both easier
and infinitely more difficult as there are a few variables that play with each gear and you really need to know your
bike to be able to detect where things are going.

so far i found the beast way to tune this monster is by looking at the POD for what % throttle you're in,
if you're sitting at 5% TPS then you can throttle it up to about 15% and as the RPMs climb to a certain climax you're happy
with instead of letting go of throttle just bring it back down to 10% n' let the revs drop all the way till you can feel she's leveled
off to match TPS.. that way every RPM the engine hits on the way down will be read for the 10% column...
if you do this for all gears as much as you can, specially in the mid range things really begin to shape up..
2nd and 3rd gear are finally useable again, it trully is a world of difference from what i'm used to, you can definitely feel RAM air
and how it affects the drive-ability of the gear youre in... revs are allowed to climb and since you start making power earlier
then it all comes along for the ride, next thing you know there's zero need to shift as you're passing cars... very easy
to do so now both in 2nd & 3rd, just roll on and roll off.. 4th feels great in cruising mode but a little weak still off 5k rpm..
I will have to mess with 4th gear mapping to get the best out of it... 5th is a total dream out in the freeway
along with 6th, both cruising at 13.4 are just perfect.. plenty of get up and go yet not breaking the bank at all..

i'm very happy with the results thus far,... if anybody is on the fence regarding the AT & POD as tuning tools i highly recommend them both!!! :fork

Since the fueling requirements are different for each gear, if you don't run gear advanced the AT will constantly trying to modify a single map for the different running conditions of each gear. It will always be chasing it's tail.

:yesnod

there are parts of 3rd gear's rpm bandwidth that felt to be in the ballpark after tweaking the basic map but honestly it was just too much work..
and it was very evident if i had been riding tight and twisty bits as soon as i tried to get some real power out or 3rd there just was nothing there.
it really had a hard time making power on the lower revs, of course its fueling requirements are worlds away from what 4th can get a way with
and the custom map i was running though tuned for 4th was done on a dyno, which cant possibly account for RAM air... both these maps have
taken the most work really, its a fine line between power and smooth power, a very fine dance at least for my riding style.. :fact


i wore my ear plugs all day so i would not get distracted by the engine sound as i tuned, opted more for how each gear felt and man oh man was
I ever in for a treat... i rode with a huge smile on my face all day after having accepted yesterdays TRIMS at a local ride, at the end of the day
as i crossed border back into Canada (rode WA state backroads today, so much fun) i left the plugs off, woah, the engine roars to life right into
idle n' sits there happy at 13.4afr (currently) and it rumbles and clears its throat into life as you gas it off 1st... revving into position along with
the rest of traffic both in 2nd & 3rd is a truly wonderful experience, you can literally feel how much happier the engine is with a set 13.2AFR from
the word go up till 5kish when cruising range starts, you can easily sit in 3rd gear through both fast and slow n' tight roads, plenty of go from
both of those lower gears... no longer does it feel like they fall flat on their face if you throttle down or off altogether, REVs feel extremely uniform & smooth :boobies

 

You, Nox, and Tad......come help me tune my bike. :bigsmile:

 

well, wouldnt that just be so convenient... :sneaky :lol

it really does take some learnin' to figure out what works best and where she's happy, but once you are in the ballpark it all starts falling into place..

the biggest difference as mentioned above is how steady RPMs are after WOT {within reason on public roads though} on 3rd, before it was like a
wet towel, power off.. down go revs.. familiar on/off switch, now its getting there, you can hold a range and the engine keeps waiting on next
input, without dropping out for the count. i find it just as important in corners, you never really know whats coming ahead n' as always,

smooth throttle is good :thumbup

all i can say is the tools are definitely out there, whatever your bag of tricks may be, Bazazz or Dynojet... there's definitely horsepower to be made in all gears :fact :fork

 

ohh lord... there goes the thread... :shake :no

thought i'd post up something else i noticed while utilizing the POD, pcV once speed sensor hooked up, it does not recognize you're
in gear until you fully let out the clutch, so you gotta watch the display for a clear signal, which will undoubtedly mean you're making
adjustments on said gear map, if you do quick shifts @ 1st it wont recognize the gear n' may show something silly like 3, 5, 4 and then
2nd gear you're in... i noticed it doesnt happen too often once you've had at least one run accepted but i believe i got better reads
when i made sure it was showing gear i'd selected before going through the rpms..

once it has had a chance to map out areas where certain gear's power-bands intersect then i find it does begin to respond faster, as
in quickly gearing down for a corner n' bumping up to 4th on exit, you can really feel the kick-in-the-pants hosseys as you gear-up :yesnod