Could be the rectifier for the sputtering part,could be the the switch pod for the fan part...check out those 2 and get back to us with findings.

P.S.

Best way to check is to replace with other parts...get some used ones,cheaper if its not them!

 

Sounds like stator coil to me, mine had the same prb as well.

 

PokinArrow- could you describe your problems to me? were they exactly the same as mine? what was the situation that caused the malfunction?

martinc- what is a switch pod? I can't find a R/R on ebay, prob gonna hafta order a new one 80bux.

- OH, prob won't be able to test till this weekend... thanks for the advice and I'll post up with my findings.

 

Stator or rectifier

 

Forget that...tired here... :lol

There must be a short in your harness..you crashed on the right side?

 

yes, right side was the one that went down.

 

Something must be wrong with the radiator switch that triggers the fan or its wiring...its on the right side

 

You think so? It still reads the temp, and sends it to the output.

I unplugged the temp sender, which is supposed to trigger the fan? The fun was still running. That's why I even mentioned the fan. I traced the fan wire back around the left side of the bike (thats why I tore into the harness on that side) but now that I think about it, if the temp sender turns the fan on, and the temp sender is unplugged and fan is still running, then it has to be wiring between the temp sender and whatever that is connected to. How does that circuit work? Does the temp sender send signal to the ICU, and then the ICU sends signal to the fan? Or does it go directly from the temp sender to the fan? If it goes through the ICU then that means the ICU could be fugged up. and that mofo is 400 bux!! :rant


My main concern is the cutting out, backfiring, and tac bouncing of the 7k rpm line like its redline.

So the consensus is that it is either my stator or my reg/rectifier?

 

did you check if the bike is putting out 13.5 volts or more at the battery terminals when you rev it to around 3500 RPM? if it is then all you might have done is fouled out your spark plugs form the lowside.

 

Na, I changed my spark plugs out, still having the same problem. They were really bad though, I assume every time it backfires, its messin up my plugs.

 

Stator is good! not sure about the rectifier.... if my rectifier is bad, will it cause my bike to backfire?? i don't think so..... I feel like blowing this pos bike up!

 

You think so? It still reads the temp, and sends it to the output.

I unplugged the temp sender, which is supposed to trigger the fan? The fun was still running. That's why I even mentioned the fan. I traced the fan wire back around the left side of the bike (thats why I tore into the harness on that side) but now that I think about it, if the temp sender turns the fan on, and the temp sender is unplugged and fan is still running, then it has to be wiring between the temp sender and whatever that is connected to. How does that circuit work? Does the temp sender send signal to the ICU, and then the ICU sends signal to the fan? Or does it go directly from the temp sender to the fan? If it goes through the ICU then that means the ICU could be fugged up. and that mofo is 400 bux!! :rant


My main concern is the cutting out, backfiring, and tac bouncing of the 7k rpm line like its redline.

So the consensus is that it is either my stator or my reg/rectifier?

One possible fault mode is the ECU. An ECU failure could account for both conditions.

Another possibility is the combination of low system electrical power and a defective radiator fan relay. Because you stated that your temperature readout appears correct, that then eliminates the temperature sender/sensor as a possibility. The temperature sender/sensor provides a temperature signal directly to the readout and also to the ECU. The ECU interprets this signal and controls the radiator fan via a signal wire going to the radiator fan relay.

I would suggest a process-of-elimination troubleshooting scheme.

To eliminate the charging system as a potential source, connect a digital voltmeter to the battery and run the bike at a constant 5000 (+/- 500) rpm and monitor the battery voltage. It should be 14.0~14.5 volts. Readings either above or below this range indicate a problem. A low charge voltage could cause the high-rpm miss-fire.

The radiator fan relay is located in the upper portion of the front cowling. It will be a small black module with two brown, one green/black and one blue wire. Disconnect the green/black wire. If the fan continues to run with the grn/blk wire disconnected, then the relay is either defective or there is a wiring 'shunt' around the relay. If the fan stops running, then either the grn/blk wire is shorted/connected to ground or the ECU is toast.

To determine if there is a 'shunt' around the relay, totally disconnect the relay. If the fan continues to run, then the relay is most likely OK and the blue wire is somehow shorted/connected to 12-volts (the two brown wires are at 12-volts).

Sam

 

Hey Sam,WB

 

Hey thanks Sam. I'll check those suggestions this weekend. Just for more backround.... The battery was reading 13.xx volts with the bike off. I checked the voltage at 5k rpm and it was something like 14.2. I'm sure it was between the suggested range, as I was following a diagnostic/trouble shooting guide from "link-o-rama."

I am one hundred percent positive that it is not the Stator. I'm pretty sure the entire charging system is ok. I'm sure the battery is good per spec sheets/repair manual. And just to make sure I understand correctly; the ECU is the "speedo" and the ICU is the computer box underneath the driver seat?

Is there an easy way to check if there is low voltage in my system? such as check the wires going to the coil packs?

Thanks again,

Nick

 

Hey thanks Sam. I'll check those suggestions this weekend. Just for more backround.... The battery was reading 13.xx volts with the bike off. I checked the voltage at 5k rpm and it was something like 14.2. I'm sure it was between the suggested range, as I was following a diagnostic/trouble shooting guide from "link-o-rama."

I am one hundred percent positive that it is not the Stator. I'm pretty sure the entire charging system is ok. I'm sure the battery is good per spec sheets/repair manual. And just to make sure I understand correctly; the ECU is the "speedo" and the ICU is the computer box underneath the driver seat?

Is there an easy way to check if there is low voltage in my system? such as check the wires going to the coil packs?

Thanks again,

Nick

Hi Nick,

A voltage reading of 14.2 is perfect, but as to why it is perfect is a whole nother' enchilada. :fire

IMHO, that eliminates the whole charging system as a possible problem source with about a 99.999% confidence level.

The computer under the seat is the ECU (Electronic Control Unit). The 'dash' and associated instruments are called the ICU (Instrument Cluster Unit).

After seeing the price to replace the ECU you may want to visit the ICU!! :fact

The feed wire to the coil packs should be at full system voltage (14.2) at any time the engine is running above an idle.

Sam

 

Hey Sam,WB

Thanks Martin.

I'm just getting my 'Fix' (solving problems and helping people). :crash :rock

 

Sam Farris rocks

<---- Long time "fan" over here !!! =)

 

Great! That's what I was afraid of the whole time, but it's good to hear somebody else say it. Now I won't feel bad spending some money on these two parts (ECU/ICU).

First I will check the fan relay and report back, next I will check the voltage to my coil packs at engine speeds of 5-6k rpm just to double check. Then finally I will find somebody willing to let me try my ECU and ICU on their bike to see if we can reproduce the same problem on their R1.

These two parts should be compatible with 2000 and 2001 R1 correct? And if that isn't it then... well then I'm gonna be one upset dude who is headed back to square one . I should have some more info to post saturday or sunday evening.

Can't thank you all enough :bow ,

Nick

 

Yup,

ECU is interchangable 2000 <=> 2001.

Keep us posted Nick!

Sam :riding

 

Sam, great to see you back on the forum and sharing your wealth of knowledge and electronic expertise.

 

Sam, great to see you back on the forum and sharing your wealth of knowledge and electronic expertise.

...the part where we all get lost...

:lol

 

...the part where we all get lost...

:lol

Well, I've never been accused of being terse; that's for sure!! :no

Thanks for kudos everyone; it's nice to be appreciated. :yesnod :bow

...now, if I can just behave myself...:2bitchsla

 

Ok.... I found the fan relay (or what I think it is) It has two brown wires, one green, and a blue. I disconnected the green wire and the fan no longer ran. Next in order to determine if the wire was "shunt" :dunno I disconnected the relay and the fan did not run. I'm sure the wire is not shorted because I checked the wiring harness from the battery all the way to the front of the bike and nothing was shorted, exposed, etc. So this means my ECU is the number one suspect. Correct? Anyone got an extra laying around?

I'll be looking for guinea pig R1's for the next week or so to test my ECU on.

 

Ok.... I found the fan relay (or what I think it is) It has two brown wires, one green, and a blue. I disconnected the green wire and the fan no longer ran. Next in order to determine if the wire was "shunt" :dunno I disconnected the relay and the fan did not run. I'm sure the wire is not shorted because I checked the wiring harness from the battery all the way to the front of the bike and nothing was shorted, exposed, etc. So this means my ECU is the number one suspect. Correct? Anyone got an extra laying around?

I'll be looking for guinea pig R1's for the next week or so to test my ECU on.

Nick,

The 'shunt' test was only to be performed if disconnecting the green wire did not cause the fan to shut off.

Because the fan did shut off, that means the relay is OK and either the green wire is shorted to ground, or the ECU is toast,.. maybe (here's why). In reading over your posts I had thought you had said your temperature readout was working, but I cannot find that reference now. Is your temp readout working? If not, then the temperature sender/sensor may be sending the wrong information to the ECU.

Sam

 

Yes, the temp sensor is working. It says lo when I turn the key on a cold engine, displays about 165 during riding (still cold out) and when I put a jumper wire across the two female parts of the plug the temp readout was "high" and the red temp light flashed.