Your fans should be coming on around 220....make sure they are working

 

they are... they come on around 223... but it gets really hot... and like i said my 929 wouldnt ever warm up that quick.. especially in chilly weather.... before these mods my bike was done stock... rarely hit past 185.... and it was warmer then thats y i know something there that im missing!

 

My guess is that your map is to lean! How is the bike performing?

 

check your radiator and auxiliary coolant reservoir levels. If they are low this can definitely happen. Your bike should run cooler removing the factory midpipe. I run less coolant (di water) to save weight, that's how much cooler it ran after exhaust and fuel map alterations.

 

+1
i had an issue w heat..i changes the coolant and installed a manual fan switch..turned the bike on after the coolant flush and it never even got to 200 after that..guess i had some air in there or something..but now w the switch i turn it on when i want to and dont see temps above 190 really

 

Is the coolant circulating ...I know when at a light my bike temp cli bs up but the second I start moving the temp starts dropping...gonna be doing a manual fan switch prob this week so I can turn my fans on sooner then 220*


The exhaust will still get hot and will still feel it from under the seat just not as bad as having a cat in place

 

That is way to hot I agree with the above

 

Honestly if felt cooler with the cat on and no mods!!! That's what I don't get!!!!!

Coolant is good, and circulating!

But bike still gets hot as hell... Like I said before it hits 223-230 in a matter of minutes in chilly weather... When stock it didn't break 180?

 

Thermostat



Check your thermostat opening temp, start from cold and let idle until temp gets to 160 or so. Your thermo should open between 165 and 175 dgrees,when it does temp will drop from 170 or so back to low 160 range. Watch temp gauge carefully for thermostat opening temp drop,if temp doesn't drop and just rises with no drop your thermostat is stuck closed. All 3 of my R1's had a temp drop at around 170 (or less) back to 160-163

 

Power commander was tuned by DyNojEt via remote access today... Sill same results minus the idle issue.... It's a basic map... Two bros slip on stock air filter... NOTHING crazy at all

 

Flip the tank up, unplug the power commander from the harness, and disconnect the ground from the battery. Bolt everything back on and go for a ride. Problem goes away, Power Commander is screwing up your A/F bad. If problem still there, you have something seriously wrong with your cooling or oiling.

Everything else held constant new exhaust pieces should only reduce engine temp.

 

Also, I haven't worked on a PCV on an 08 R1 only PCIII. You might have to disconnect it from some injectors and plug the factory plugs back in. Buddies 08 1000RR is like this, PCV connects to primary injectors 1 and 4.

 

Mass happens to be in the 60s to low 70s and in city driving conditions I'm getting close to 225 to 230 in stop and go traffic. I ride my bike in the higher rpm and that what happens. I notice when I baby my bike in the city traffic the temp. Is lower. When I'm riding on the highway and still keeping the bike around 8 k plus ton the rpm the temp. stays around 170 to 200.

 

Same for me 2005 PCV decat and slip ons - gets just as hot as with the cat. 220 in traffic in no time, will go down to about 175 -180 once moving over about 50mph.

These bikes just run really hot I guess.

 

Reflash your ecu i even ask them to lower my fan to 195..

 

Did dynojet accidentally activate PRM when they remotely tuned your PC? If so, the additional HP being produced at higher RPM, as you've described, is causing the heat problem. Call them back and ask them to remotely check the PRM status.

 

My bike gets a little warm when stopped. Once I start moving it cools right back off. After a ride yesterday the bike was hovering around 208-210 sitting in the garage idling. I am going to flush the coolant though and see it it makes a difference.

 

Get a manual fan switch.. It's great for them I town rides.. Cost less than $10.. I turn mine on at 150 and normally don't see 180 unless it's a hot day or I'm sitting at a light ... Bike used to get to 212 a lot b4 the switch

 

Not sure what DyNojEt did as far as I'm concerned all they did was upgrade the firmware and load a base map for me...

Does anyone har a DIY on flushing coolant link? I will try that I'll put in engine ice m see if that helps. Don't really wanna do a manual fan switch had that on my cbr929 and kept forgetting about turning it on lol.

It mind boggles me cause before the y pile, slip one, pc the bike would rarely see above 180!

 

Do you beat on the bike more since the Mods? If yes then it would make sense.

 

I just flushed the coolant. Easier on the R1 than on the Rhino.
Remove both fairings.
Remove lower hose that goes into the engine.
Let drain.
Flush out with water (I used the hose)
Attach the hose back.
Fill again till all the air is out.
Remove hose.
Repeat till it is clear coming out of the engine.
Attach hose back.
Fill with water
Start engine.
Let fans turn on.
Turn engine off.
Remove hose and let drain again.
I used water wetter, have had good luck with it in my cars and the Rhino.
Fill with distilled water, took about 1/2 gallon along with what the water wetter was.
Start bike and let it warm back up.
Let it cool off and check the coolant level.
For the overflow I used a basically a Turkey Baster with a hose on the end to suck it out. Fill it up suck it out till its clean.
Fill with distilled water.
Start bike and stare at the bike in awe while drinking a Red Bull, or a beer if you dont have to go to work.

 

any idea how many bottles of engine ice i would need to use for the R1?

 

I have never used it. I add one water wetter and the rest water.
It looks to be used by itself with no water added. If so then you will need about 5 of them. That is over 100 dollars, I dont spend that on coolant to flush my diesel.
I would get one 1/2 gallon and a gallon of distilled water but that is me.

 

Engine ice only shaves a few degrees off really.. And then u gotta change it out b4 the weather gets cold again ! I would do the flush 1st and make sure it's topped off, and the switch u can just splice in to the fan line and it will still come on when it's suppose to, but u can turn it in when u want to also... One if my fav mods on the r1 do far, very effective

 

That's actually a very good idea to splice n make a additional switch. Why do u say I would have to flush every winter though? I had it on my other bike and it ws always fine. Do you by chance have a wiring diagram as to which wire is for the switch?

Just went for a quick ride to make sure the coolant was topped off and the air was out.
Here are the numbers compared to the stock coolant that came in the bike.
Temps are a little cooler out today but not much. So add 3-5 degrees to my numbers.
After a ride, letting it idle in the garage:
Stock - 210 and would start creeping up.
Now - Will hit 205, fans kick on and hovers around 196-198
Cruising back roads between 5500 and 7000:
Stock it would be between 175 and 180.
Now - 165-170.
Lower the RPM a little and it would hover about 163 on the flats.
A little stop and go (I mean little, I live in small town, speed limit is 35 which sucks on this bike)
Stock the fans would be on the entire time.
Now they didnt come on till I pulled into the driveway.

So does water wetter and water work yes.
I am sure engine ice would also, my brother swears by it for dirt bikes.

thank you for that review.awesome write up I just do t see how water would cool it more than a pre distilled coolant?


ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET A SHOP MANUAL TO DOWNLOAD SEARCHED HIGH AMD LOW CANT FIND SHIT!

 

Just went for a quick ride to make sure the coolant was topped off and the air was out.
Here are the numbers compared to the stock coolant that came in the bike.
Temps are a little cooler out today but not much. So add 3-5 degrees to my numbers.
After a ride, letting it idle in the garage:
Stock - 210 and would start creeping up.
Now - Will hit 205, fans kick on and hovers around 196-198
Cruising back roads between 5500 and 7000:
Stock it would be between 175 and 180.
Now - 165-170.
Lower the RPM a little and it would hover about 163 on the flats.
A little stop and go (I mean little, I live in small town, speed limit is 35 which sucks on this bike)
Stock the fans would be on the entire time.
Now they didnt come on till I pulled into the driveway.

So does water wetter and water work yes.
I am sure engine ice would also, my brother swears by it for dirt bikes.

Just looked the temps up.
Yesterday it was 66 degrees.
Today it was 68 degrees.

 

Wrong. Engine Ice you leave in year around. Water Wetter you have to change out before winter (in cold climates). Your problem is probably that K&N filter - go back to stock. K&N is garbage.

I have ran engine ice year around in michigan (temps to -20 ambient in the winter) for 10+ years with zero problems. And on cars it might make the temperature cooler but on my bikes it is relatively the same or even a little higher for whatever reason. But I do it because you can't run polyethylene glycol at the track.

 

But I do it because you can't run polyethylene glycol at the track.

You put colon cleaner in your cooling system? :lol

Ethylene Glycol is anti-freeze/coolant. POLYEthylene Glycol is a substance in medicines. One creates poisons in your body, the other clears your ass out.....literally.

 

The reason water is the best coolant is the specific heat.
It is heat and mass transfer.
It has the ability to take heat in and release better than all (might be a few unobtanium fluids out) fluids you would want to use as a coolant. Ammonia would be better but I am not putting that in my bike.
Now this is from memory from school which was about 8 years ago.
Water has almost twice the conductivity for heat compared to coolant. The problem starts when the temps get high. You have to make more pressure to keep water from boiling. A coolant has a higher boiling point than water at atmospheric pressure, so it would be much higher under pressure. I think our bikes have say a 16 psi cap.
That would be about 225 or so degrees with pure water in the system.
Coolant would be in the 260 range.

if I am wrong someone correct me, again this is off of memory.

 

Does any have or know how to solve this issue, I have a 2012 R1 and recently put on a yoshimura TRC-D slip on exhaust. I went for a ride last weekend about 2 hours total and my gas tank go so hot I have burn marks on my thigh. I don't recall my engine temperature going over 210. Any advice or knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

 

Other things: did you leave off the heat shield on the y-pipe? I got the Graves Y-pipe and it came with a new heat shield. I've since taken that off since I got my Vortex rearsets (dont match up nicely on the bolt pattern), and it is considerably hotter on the leg.

Also, check your fuel lines if you or anyone at all has ever lifted the tank. Once they kink once, it's game over. The inner part of the hose is plastic and gets permanently bent (like a straw), it it kinks once. I had mine dynoed recently and found out i was running over 20% AFR which is insanely lean, turned out to be the fuel line. It'll still run, but it's gonna be lean as hell. Best thing to do is look up the kinked fuel line mod, and do it, even if it hasn't kinked yet.

 

I did put the heat shield on. The tank has never been lifted as I bout my bike factory new as a leftover model in March 2014. I have just under 1000 miles on it now.