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How to quiet down A&R Race baffles

5.4K views 32 replies 23 participants last post by  joe.blackr1  
#1 ·
Well i know this sounds silly, but after installing this kit, im finding it intolerable as i commute everyday with my bike. Although i like the sound, the baffles are too loud even with ear plugs, im wondering if there is a way to add or reduce packing or any other trick? Worse comes to worse, ill just go back to stock cans..

Thanks
 
#6 ·
A few people install the baffles to open up the exhaust flow a bit and don't know how loud they will be. I was going to install the baffles myself as a performance mod but changed my mind after I read a lot of feedback on the excessive noise. It's nice to be able to be quiet in town when you don't want too much attention so I'll stick with stock cans + gutted cat, for now.
 
#12 ·
i have mine packet with FMF 4 stroke packing and wrapped with plumbers seal tape so u cant see much or any of the packing. There only loud when throttled hard on it. i love the way they sound and have had lots of compliments. more packing or tighter packing will make a difference. Also, depending on the size of the holes in the perferated tube makes a difference, but i cant member if bigger holes or small holes make it louder. i believe its bigger holes, louder exhaust. sounds way better then those car like guts that were in the cans that came out of it. ehehe
 
#17 ·
race baffles

Dont get rid of them. I love mine. Put them on two weeks ago and my bike is humming nice. Best $100 i've spent plus you get the stock look. Call the guys at a and r. they will help you. Good luck.
 
#19 ·
I have a 06 with the V&H baffle and used only the packing that came with it plus have no cat or exup, SUPER LOUD! You could get a stock set on ebay cheap and just put on the baffled one's when you want to "Bring da noise"
 
#20 ·
personally found that the v&h packing that came in the kit wasn't enough - wasn't long enough to cover the full baffle, and didn't fill the can space sufficiently

contrary to the above, wrapping it tighter makes the can more straight through, and will make it louder, including if you wrapped the baffle with the copper wire sheet.

personally got some additional packing sheets and double wrapped the baffles closely but not tightly. this also holds the baffle in place stopping any reverb. dispensed with the wire sheet

had the bike sound tested on the track days before and after. was about 102/103 dbs with one packing layer, and 98dbs with the 2 (which is still loud, but means i can do the quiet track days without having to change the exhausts)

doing the race cans comes with a degree of noise, but there's a difference between a bike sounding powerfully loud, and making noise for the sake of it.
 
#21 ·
had a question regarding the baffle..i took off the stock baffle out of the can and took the cans and y pipe it to the shop about a week ago to get powder coated. i just picked it up today and probably going to put in the a&r baffles tomorrow but my question is how does the baffles stay in place in the can?, it doesnt really look like anything holds it in there. i Havnt got to take a really close look as i was in a rush to get to work (where im currently at as im writing this) but if anybody could let me know would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
#22 ·
it's riveted brother. Your stock baffles are also riveted to the cans. You will have to drill the old rivets out, just like the A & R instructions tell you. Then Re-use the stainless rivets supplied with the kit. THe stock baffles are also welded on the end to the Stock cans, hence the reason you have to grind the welds off also.
 
#23 ·
it's riveted brother. Your stock baffles are also riveted to the cans. You will have to drill the old rivets out, just like the A & R instructions tell you. Then Re-use the stainless rivets supplied with the kit. THe stock baffles are also welded on the end to the Stock cans, hence the reason you have to grind the welds off also.

what?! the baffle itself is not riveted to the can... only the cap is. the baffle simply sits in place because it is held there by the cap and the wrapping...
 
#24 ·
kind of an older thread, but use more exhaust packing and also i would recommend graves smog block off plates. it makes a world of difference with backfiring. no more annoying popping.
 
#25 ·
ok thanks ocravenr1, that answers my question, so the A&R baffle is bigger than the end cap so that it wont come out (im assuming). Another thing... Is just the baffle wraps enough to make the a&r baffle snug into the can, from what im reading in other post that it doesnt seem quite enough.
 
#27 ·
:ncont::riding
 
#29 ·
yeah, was quite surprised i got that reading at the track. then again, i didn't exactly rev the nuts off the thing :)

they ask you to hit 6-7grand for the track sound test before start of play, think i was a bit shy of that. think you can hit more db as you climb the tach.
 
#31 ·
its a bit of a pain its true. suprised none of your tracks have restrictions for racing tho.

apparently some old duffers were running classic machinery at brands with basically straight through pipes for some trackdays/races which took the proverbial, and the local residents compained (who buys a house next to a race track then complains its noisey???)

anyway, they now have to formally test rather than theoretically pull you in if your pipes are making peoples ears bleed as they pass the stands/pits. to be fair, a mate racing had an arrow can supplied for his prep'd r6 that was cocked up and supposed to be race legal. was hitting in excess of 115db!! wasn't pleasant as it passed.......

brands hatch is 105db for normal day, 102db for the evenings and the GP track. some of the tracks that run the weekend dates require 98dbs