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How to shorten and install Akrapovic full systems

15K views 44 replies 17 participants last post by  nickhjort  
#1 · (Edited)
I've had the Akrapovic Evolution exhausts for awhile and it bothered me how long they were. Though not as long as the original circular Graves, it still was longer than I liked. So after about 2 years, I thought what the hell, might as well shorten them after seeing how much better the shorties looked on Wheatman's and Bogie's. How hard can it be when others have done it on theirs... :dunno

What a pain it turned out to be. :fact I guess carbon sleeved cans take more time than metal sleeves. The construction of the pipes are top-notch so taking them apart was a chore. I was a little surprised that the baffle was made of titanium. With the sleeve being carbon, cutting them took 2 different tools and a lot of cussing. :lol

Tools needed:
dremel
heavy-duty battery drill with grinder attachment
3/16 in drill bit
rivet tool
8 rivets
5 mm allen wrench
12 mm socket
12 mm wrench
vice-grip pliers
4 new exhaust gaskets
marker or electrical tape
ruler
face mask
safety glasses
hammer

So let's start with the beginning. Remove seats, upper seat fairing, r&l mids and lowers, and original exhaust. I have made simple how to's for these so run a search.

Pic 1, for the exhaust, follow the numbers from the manual.
Pic 2, now to begin the install, place pipes as shown so you know which one goes where. This is how they would look facing the engine from the front. This missing collar, I've left on the engine as a reference later on.
Pic 3, from the bottom, how the 2-1 pipes should look. Tip if you ever want to know the difference between stainless steel and titanium, check the color.
Pic 4, link pipe to the y-pipe, with Akras, this is all one piece.
Pic 5, laid out for a side view.
Pic 6, the collar on the engine.
Pic 7, new exhaust gaskets. $6 a pop, need 4. :eek:
Pic 8, if you get the exhaust new, the collars are not bonded onto the header pipes by the carbon buildup so you can place replace gasket and collar like so. Then tighten down only to keep the gasket from falling out.
Pic 9, insert pipes one at a time until it stops at the welds.
Pic 10, another angle.
 

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#2 · (Edited)
Pic 1, insert 2 into 1 for for the left 2 downpipes, again all the way. You can manipulate the downpipes by twisting to the side.
Pic 2, this is the 2 into 1 for the 2 right handside downpipes. again insert tube all the way in.
Pic 3, both of the 2 into 1s mounted.
Pic 4, The link/y-pipe is a 1-piece item. Install from the top of the swingarm down beneath to meet the 2 2-into-1 pipes. I love the bluing effect on titanium... :fact
Pic 5, this mount point and the next near the y joint, next pic, are the most crucial as it sets up the important alignment of the parallel exhausts. At this point, with akra's if you mounted the header and the 2-into-1s properly, the mounts should line up perfectly. If not go back and redo.
Pic 6, the piece that the link pipe attaches to also attaches to the frame. Flip it around from the stock position for akras, then it will mount flush.
Pic 7, another view.
Pic 8, mount the exhaust baffles and check for even spacing using the subframe as a reference.
Pic 9, tighten down to keep in place.
Pic 10, now go back and tighten all bolts and attach tension spring. and this is how it looks.


I'll add more pics later as this is not yet done, still waiting to finish up the 2nd baffle and the arrival of the rivet tool
 

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#3 · (Edited)
Baffle shortening

This was the major PAIN. But also a learning experience. The key is take your time and cuss at everything and anything. :lol

Pic 1, to start, drill out rivets like regular. Be careful and take your time, I started with a smaller drill bit to chew up the rivet safely so that when I used the bigger drill, it had a less chance of skipping and scratching the sleeve.
Pic 2, with the rivets removed
Pic 3, insert the end of a hammer or something that'll fit into the exhaust cap. Wiggle back and forth gently and the cap will come off. No epoxy thank god.
Pic 4, how the inside looks without the exhaust caps.
Pic 5, how it looks mounted.
Pic 6, how much to cut?
Pic 7, another view, sticker will be removed so I may lose 20 hp. :hammer:
Pic 8, 3.5 inches to remove, marked out with non-black marker ** note do not let girlfriend borrow tools. :fact She used it as if it was a screwdriver. :chair: **
Pic 9, since I had 3.5 inches of carbon sleeve to remove, I made 2 practice cuts with the dremel to see how it would feel. Set the speed to high, put on your mask and googles, and cut away. The high speed leaves a smooth finish on the carbon. If you set the speed low, it may splinter and you don't want to do that. The baffle was the biggest pain. It is made of titanium and surrounded by a thick wire mesh. So cutting away with the grinder, you have wire going everywhere. Also the glass fibres get cut up and go everywhere too. If you have a vacuum, put it close to where the cutting's going to be done so you don't have them floating around. You don't want to breath too much of that stuff. With the baffle exposed, I cut lines into the baffle and then cut around the circumference. I'll add more pics of it as I do the 2nd baffle. But here is how it looks almost done. You want the baffle to end at the same point of the sleeve.
pic 10, push back in the fiber and wire mesh, also at the same time gently pull up the material at the edges so that the end cap can get a flush entry. Insert end cap, and force it down gently with taps from a :hammer: on the exhaust tip. Not the cap as it may dent. :fact and voila
 

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#4 · (Edited)
Pic 1, another view, not too shabby. :sneaky
Pic 2, started on the 2nd baffle. This time marked off where to cut with some electrical tape. The sleeve length is slightly over 11 inches now.
Pic 3, took some practice cuts again and got closer to the final cut.
Pic 4, pulled out the fiberglass packing material and you can get a better look at the wire mesh surrouding the baffle.
Pic 5, cut about 3 inches of the baffle and also made the final clean cut on the sleeve.
Pic 6, another view, different angle.
Pic 7, baffle, wire wrap and fiber flush with the sleeve.
Pic 8, another view, also cleaned up the inside of the baffle a little to make the cut look clean. Each baffle took about 3 dremel grinders to finish up.
Pic 9, installed the exhaust tip
Pic 10, another view of both exhausts.

Both exhausts are now around 11 inches long. Ran the bike on it and sounded louder and deeper. :rock

Still waiting on the rivet gun and rivets.
 

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#7 · (Edited)
Pic 1, another angle.
Pic 2, cali legal :yuck gotta do something about the fender.
Pic 3, the complete package
Pic 4, rear view
Pic 5, old pic for comparison
Pic 6, another old pic, fully clothed.

Took it for a test ride, couple things became apparent.
I ordered the rivets and tension spring from LP but knowing them its gonna be a while. But the fit is tight enough that I'm not worrying about the exhaust caps falling out. So i took it for a test ride. I haven't ridden the bike in like 3 months so I was really itchin' to go. The cans are definitely way Louder. I'm going to need a new map as breathing is a little more easier. I'll probably try fiveoh's map.

It was fun. Hit me up with any questions you may have. :riding
 

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#15 ·
Relinked all pics. I also got a phone call yesterday that the rivets are finally here from LP with typical LP speed. :lol

To give you all an update, I'm noticing that it is a lot LOUDER, barely tolerable without earplugs.:fact I have ridden the bike without rivets and the endcaps stayed on. I have ridden her hard and it is invigorating. I don't know about what others may think on the road but I'm not real stressed about that.
 
#27 ·
Nice tutorial on the can shortening deal. I'm with r6avenger though...how do you take the front sprocket cover off without releasing all the tubes it keeps in place???? :dundun:
um did you read the title of the thread?:2bitchsla
 
#28 ·
okay i havent seen a thread for "coverless sprockets" thread we're asking for a simple question "is it zip ties? is it bubble gum? is it a little cockroach holding them in place? whats holding the tubes inb place?:2bitchsla