When you installed the bleeders did they go in nice and easy? If not you may have stripped the threads. Any case check the threads on the caliper and on the bleeder screws.

 

you probably overtightened them and messed up the threads, you arent supposed to screw them all the way in, just until they get snug....

 

What did ya tq em to ?

May want to put some teflon tape on the bleader threads to get a good seal..

 

I tightened them until they where snug. I wil put some telfon tape on it to see if that cures the problem

 

Telfon tape will not work - you will need teflon..

:lol


I used to just snug em down but one day decided to tq them to specs.. Think it was 4 ftlbs ? I was very suprised how much more they turned to the proper spec.. With the Ti you may want to go slightly lower maybe 3ftlbs ?

:hellobye

* Its 3.6 ft-lb or 5 NM

 

I just torqued them down to specs. I did put some teflon tape on it. I believe the tape will actually do the trick. I checked the threads of both parts and everything is fine.the leak was like a tiny drip only after being ridden. I will ride on wednesday and report back. Fozz I do not no my own strength. The ability to strip bolts is way to easy fror me and that is why I use a torque wrench on jsut about everything.

 

I purchased titanium bleeder valves all the way around. The rear does not fit my OE brake. If you consider they mate wrong like mine, then that might be the case. My last brake bleed I found small chunks of debris. Something like that would inhibit a proper mate.

I cannot use the ti one in the rear

 

I purchased the titanium bleeders from probolt also. It is odd because the rear had the same problem and I had to dissamble and reassembe and the problem was solved. I tried it with the front one and that did not work. I just took it apart again and everything is good no bits or stripped threads. I believe that after some use the caliper expands do to heat and that is enough to allow the fluid to just sneak by the bleeder. That is my thought.:hellobye

 

To wash my wounds, I did get some ti caliper pins for the MV Agusta calipers now offered from Pro Bolt....

Your theory on the bleeding makes sense...

 

To wash my wounds, I did get some ti caliper pins for the MV Agusta calipers now offered from Pro Bolt....

Your theory on the bleeding makes sense...

I saw the caliper pins for the 05 I will order those very soon.

 

Do it before Sept 1. Price increase following. I got an email from Pro Bolts about it.

 

I installed titanium brake bleeders in the brake calipers and the left bleeder seems to have a minute drip after ridding. I installed the stock one just to see and no go. What is the malfunction.:hellobye

Maybe the chamfer on the TI part was not quite the same, causing the problem.

What was wrong with the original?

Hardly a weight saving, power gain and now look whats happened.

 

Its a disease Will...

 

Its a disease Will...

I understand the disease, would love a TI rear wheel nut but can't justify the cost.

PTFE tape is not the solution - Not for brakes.

 

yea i dont see why you would change a brake bleed valve for any reason unless its broken or something... Someone want to elaborate maybe???

 

yea i dont see why you would change a brake bleed valve for any reason unless its broken or something... Someone want to elaborate maybe???

to understand us addicts you need to be one!:sneaky :lol :lol :lol hey dylan can you post a pic of the bleeder that didn't fit (a closeup)?

 

Re: Re: Left Brake Caliper Bleeder Is Dripping

What was wrong with the original?

Hardly a weight saving, power gain and now look whats happened.

I'm a big fan of titanium, but I'm an even bigger fan of aluminum for non-stressed parts. Cheaper, lighter than Ti, and corrosion resistant too. I think the real question is, why not aluminum?

I'm using aluminum bleeders in my Monoblocks. If I have a problem, with some luck, the $5 bleeder will strip before the $1000+ caliper.

 

Re: Re: Re: Left Brake Caliper Bleeder Is Dripping

I'm a big fan of titanium, but I'm an even bigger fan of aluminum for non-stressed parts. Cheaper, lighter than Ti, and corrosion resistant too. I think the real question is, why not aluminum?

I'm using aluminum bleeders in my Monoblocks. If I have a problem, with some luck, the $5 bleeder will strip before the $1000+ caliper.

i also tend to use aluminium, but in the actuall bleed nipple aluminium is too soft for repeated tightening and untightening,,, so i use steel until i get titanium.:hellobye

 

It is an addiction. I had to get the titnaium bleeders. Nothing was wrong with the other. I did everything right. I will test it out tommorow. Oh well live and learn. You do not want to see the amount of titnaium bolts I have on my bike. Most of it is on stressed parts like te triple clamps and calipers and so on. If nothing else there is a set of 06 calipers for sale and they have the gold instead of the silver.:hellobye

 

It is an addiction. I had to get the titnaium bleeders. Nothing was wrong with the other. I did everything right. I will test it out tommorow. Oh well live and learn. You do not want to see the amount of titnaium bolts I have on my bike. Most of it is on stressed parts like te triple clamps and calipers and so on. If nothing else there is a set of 06 calipers for sale and they have the gold instead of the silver.:hellobye

bryan, have we seen pics of your active throttle? sorry if you have posted them..... if not how is it so far?:hellobye

 

Have not posted pictures yet will try soon working alot to pay for the goodies. I love it. It took about a day to get used to. Now that I am use to it I love it. Small turns equals big rpms.

 

Have not posted pictures yet will try soon working alot to pay for the goodies. I love it. It took about a day to get used to. Now that I am use to it I love it. Small turns equals big rpms.

good stuff,:thumbup any install probs?

 

good stuff,:thumbup any install probs?

Be warned take off the return spring on throttle bodies and the install takes about ten minutes. I like a jackass tried to install the return cable the hard way.:2bitchsla

 

common misconception amongst DIYers. PTFE tape IS NOT a sealant, it's a friction reducer for TAPERED threads. Brakes don't seal like air fittings, they seal by having matching chamfer angles at the inside edge. The tape will just screw things up. You might think it's sealing but it's like putting a bandaid on a leaky radiator hose, it's gonna go.

I didn't bother to read all the posts about different mods people are using, just read a few.

Put tape on airlines and pipes, it's not even that necessary on good air fittings because they're mfg'd well.

BTW, I'm a "co-op engineer" for Ingersoll Rand, I deal with air fittings all day when we endurance test our tools. We don't even use tape on 99% of the joints and no leaks.

Goodluck

 

I took the tape off. I went and torqued it down to specs with a troque wrench and not my hadnd toruque guage and it did go a little further in. I will be riding wednesday and will be able to tell if that did the trick.:hellobye