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Lets talk about low rev flat spot?

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16K views 65 replies 18 participants last post by  Thejman1000  
#1 ·
Looking for anyone that has solved this issue on their bike. I cannot cruise at a single speed for any period of time in 4th-6th gear. I get caught in the funky spot where the bike just chokes..you can hear it struggling and everything. I either have to let off or power through it.

Please advise me on getting rid of this.


Piped /no cat
SBU flashed
 
G
#2 · (Edited)
Looking for anyone that has solved this issue on their bike. I cannot cruise at a single speed for any period of time in 4th-6th gear. I get caught in the funky spot where the bike just chokes..you can hear it struggling and everything. I either have to let off or power through it.

Please advise me on getting rid of this.


Piped /no cat
SBU flashed
I know you know the answer. A dyno and custom map. Its what HAS to be done to have a properly running bike (as far as im aware of).
 
#5 ·
I had a pcv before I had the ecu flashed. The pcv fixed the flat spot by itself but it was mapped on a dyno. twobros should have the map still so i would give them a call (714) 550-6070. I have the pcv and ecu flash, the bike runs great!
 
#7 ·
They won't be fighting against each other. The pcv just alters the signal by a certain %. The problem is that you can't use any of the powercommander maps or any downloaded map as they are all based ont he stock signal coming from a stock ecu. If you flash it then you don't have the stock signal coming so it will alter by a % based off the flashed ecu's signals. So If you have flashed your ecu for the fueling you need to either get a dyno tune or the auto tuner to run the pcv.
 
#8 ·
Keep in mind a flash doesnt mean a new map was loaded in it also. It could of been a dlash to remove some of the stock restrictions and other settings but leaving the stock tune in there. You would need to ask sbu what they did unless you are positive they used another tune than stock
 
#9 ·
Honestly. the only thing that corrected the flat spot for me and smoothed out the throttle was the Flash Tune Unrestricted Map. And I was hellbent on being against it at first. I still don't agree with their license practices, but it worked....
 
#10 ·
Today I was able to get another auto tune done on my bike. Each new run gets it dialed in more. After another run I'll set the adjustments to 18% from 20, then down to 15%. Each time I save my maps
With notes added. Once it's where I want it I can make maps for myself based on weather temps. Get the PCV/auto tuner you will be very happy with it.
 
#13 ·
Flat spots! Flat spots everywhere!!!

Even in 3rd between 55-70mph. Flat spots. Really getting on my nerves.

SBU tune, Servo gutted, Graves block-off plates, Akrapovic slip & mid, PCV w/ autotune. (Done three adjustments so far.)

Going to pick up 54 gallons of 100 octane ethanol free gas, dump the remaining gas out, refill it with el new gas, and see if it helps. This issue is damn annoying, really.
 
#18 ·
Well damn...you have things I was going to buy to fix the problem. Meanwhile it's not working for you, so it won't for me. This sucks.!!

You know what sucks... a 520 conversion got rid of more of my problems. I love this bike, but there are flat spots and the throttle will never be a smooth rollon. There are too many others things that overshadow it for me though. I am putting my 520 setup on next week when I take off these crappy RS10s and put on my Supercorsas. I am at 588 miles.
Yesterday I was taking one of my favorite exit ramps for the first time since I got the bike. I was in a good lean and had to back off some. Getting back on the throttle was so twitchy and funky it made me uncomfortable. :crying:
 
#17 ·
You know what sucks... a 520 conversion got rid of more of my problems. I love this bike, but there are flat spots and the throttle will never be a smooth rollon. There are too many others things that overshadow it for me though. I am putting my 520 setup on next week when I take off these crappy RS10s and put on my Supercorsas. I am at 588 miles.
 
#31 ·
So, I have the deCat + FTECU + PCV + AUTOTUNE here.

Lately, I've also experienced what the OP describes as, "getting caught in the funky spot where the bike just chokes". However, this only seems to happen intermittently and while slowly rolling OTT from a stop in the 4k-6k range (1st gear). It does not happen when under moderate/hard acceleration out of 1st or in other gears. So, I dunno?

I was thinking about reflashing the ECU to the 'default' fuel maps as I've uploaded my custom PCV maps into the software a few times. I have not tried the 3/4 Graves flashing option because it seems to be missing features like: disable closed loop, disable AIS valve, disable EXUP, etc. (not sure if this was intentional?).

Obviously, there's the "get it dyno'd..." but I feel like that shouldn't be the only solution considering the PCV + AT is installed. In the meantime, I guess I'll keep tweaking the fuel maps.

Q - any other suggestions?
Q - for those with the PCV + AT - have you set AFR values in all of the throttle% columns (incl 0%)? Also, what's your AFR% set at?
 
#49 ·
This is what Justin at SBU suggested to me today. I will reach out to Dynojet to work on the AFR settings. I am still unhappy with the decel pop. Its worse on my 2016 compared to my 2015. I cannot seem to get it any better changing the fuel values in 0% throttle.
 
#32 ·
Ar exhaust. Sbu flash. Pcv with at. Smog block offs. Afr set at 13.6 from 5 to 40% 13.4afr at 40 to 60 13.2 afr 60 to 80 13.0afr at 80% up.... think thats about right

No issues at all on my throttle response. Smog block offs are important because that extra fresh air in ur exhaust stream will throw off ur afr reading...
 
#36 ·
The more time that goes by with my setup (2016 R1, SBU Flash, 3/4 Akra, PCV/AutoTuner, Blockoffs, MWR Filter) The more I am convinced that my 2016 is not as smooth as my 2015 was. Is it me? I have 6 auto tune map adjustments already. It could just be me, but just yesterday the wife and I went out for a few hours. She rides her own bike, and it kept it to a pretty slow ride. I experienced the 6k rpm problem where it hesitates for split second before taking off. I felt this in 2nd and 3rd gear. Slow cruising speed then had to make a pass that did not require a downshift.

My decel pop is far worse on the 2016. I am running a fuel value in 0% throttle of 10 from 2500rpm-5000rpm, then 15 5500-7000rpm. My wife said I am shooting blue flames on decel popping. I tried to lean the values out (-25,50,75) according to the Dynojet youtube video and the bike stalls so thats not the solution. I am going to email the engineer I spoke to in the past about suggestive settings. Maybe it is time to play with AFR values. I am also set on going to a dyno and get a solid base map, then auto tune off that.

The twitchy throttle is so bad when in "cruising" speeds. I guess I need to switch off A mode pwr 1. Any suggestion for which I should use? I am thinking of also going to rev2 throttle next.
 
#37 · (Edited)
I have the exact opposite experience, but I only have 41 miles on my 2016 so far. But Shifting and everything was seemingly much smoother than on my 2015.

have you tried cruising in pwr 2 mode? what is your experience with that? still popping and flames?

Also I am huge on the dyno. I am going to take mine in to a local spot here in Westchester NY to run it on the dyno.. You will be able to see a sharp UP line from 4-5 k thats the flat spot you are talking about. and with some dyno tuning, you will be able to smooth that out.

It sounds awfully a lot like the close loop/open loop is not disabled and it is still taking feedback up to 5 K when the system disables feedback and runs off of maps. I know you said that they told you they disabled it. But...
 
#38 ·
My theory with that whole popping/flame shooting deal is the timing maps were deliberately retarded to achieve a benign throttle (dampen the twitchyness). One of the side effects of doing that is that Fuel ends up getting burned in the exhaust instead of the combustion chamber. You might try increasing the timing advance under very high vacuum/low throttle conditions.
 
#40 ·
I've concluded this is just the characteristic of the R1. There's too many of us reporting this and we all have different configs. Seems it's just something we need to deal with. My bike is an animal everywhere else except at cruising speeds.
It shoots flames and i'm tired of people I ride with at night asking my if I've had the ECU flashed....I say yes, that's why it's doing it just to hear...really...that's why it shouldn't be doing it.
 
#41 ·
I have my own Race Shop and am a dealer for RapidBike. After installing the Rapidbike Unit (super-easy w no splicing) on my M1, I rode aggressively for 30 min and the flat spots, the tall gearing burble, and the excessive popping all fixed themselves. It is a true auto-tuner in that it continually improves its own map! 45 minutes of aggressive riding will get you as good a map as a custom dyno tune - the software is THAT good. Unless you love plugging a laptop repeatedly into your bike and tweaking or loading maps - get the RapidBike and be done with it. I have the SBU reflash (which didnt help any of those probs), AR Decat, Block-offs, 520 kit etc.

We install DJ Autotuners and Bazz Z-Fis but they are a more complicated install, t-tap connectors suck and the units take way more work to get less of a result.
 

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#46 ·
This bike is such a pig when I try to ride conservatively...

Me: Yeah, time to slow it down a bit... *asshole mode disengage*
Bike: herk jerk.. herk jerk...
Me: Fffffffff**** this.... *asshole mode re-engage*

Also, I checked my exhaust to see if it was leaking (some people are having issues with Akrapovic 3/4 leaks) and mine is hymen tight. So I'm ruling that out on the decel pop.
 
#58 ·
Good point on the leaking my akra was leaking from where the y pipe connected to the heade could never get it to stop tried snugging the clamps then tried torq specs only got almost leak free by just leaving the clamps of I'm wondering if this is why the graves version uses no clamps I don't see how any exhaust that is using clamps will be leak free without some sort of a gasket no clamp I don't care how well made will not put even pressure and will cause a leak some people say there's don't leak but all that means is it leaking from the top near the oil pan where you can't feel