Your engine is fine. Sounds liike you have a lean surge. Do you have a PCIII, do you have the right map downloaded? Most bikes have a little surge around 3-6 grand. The stock map with exhaust doesn';t compensate correctly.

That is what I think it is. I wouldn't worry about it. Just don't cruise at that rpm.

 

Hmmm.
well i would start with changing the plugs and fuel filter. the filter is i believe in the tank.
i am sure that some of the other guys on here with more knowledge will be able to help you out some more.
best of luck

 

DOH! I forgot to add that...

Only engine changes that I have made (I made them around say 3,000 miles and I now have 23,700 miles on the bike) are the following:

K&N Air filter (have run for 20K miles now)
Jardine slip-on exhaust (have run for 20K miles now)

I have NO PCIII on the bike. I've been running it stock since I bought it brand new in April of 2003. (yup, not even a year old yet and still under warranty!)

This has never been a problem until recently. I feel it started Dec. 20th after running at the track up at WSIR in California. After that it seemed to be lurching.

Plus, it seems to do it any ANY RPM that I hold a constant throttle on. I can be at 8k and feel it or be at 3k and feel it. It seems like it's across the board.

However, if I would just need a PCIII, my question is, why all of a sudden is it causing a problem, but didn't on the first 20,000 miles? I'm wondering why it would take 20,000 miles to "develop" this surge problem. I figured that should have happened right after I put the K&N and pipe on, right?

Also, I have changed the plugs at 8K and again around 16k. I figure I was due to change the plugs around 24K, which is just around the corner now, but it NEVER acted like this before when I when I was due to change the plugs.

 

Any other suggestions?

I'm picking up the plugs tonight and was wondering if anyone else had any other suggestions on what to look for this weekend

 

The fuel filter is attached to the bottom of the tank by a bracket and one screw. You can't miss it.

You are also due for a valve adjustment.

 

Hey there Alex...

So, it's on the OUTSIDE of the tank? or are you talking about inside the tank? I have taken the tank off before, but don't really recall seeing it, but then again, I wasn't looking for it. LOL

I know there are two (well, actually 4) hoses to the tank and 2 electrical connectors under there.

I know I really should take care of the valves, but the only problem is I've never worked on the valves like they are on the R1. I'm used to the little feeler gauge thing and tightening a screw (like on my old Gixxer and cars) to tighten or loosen (adjust) the valves. On these with that little disc thing and all that...I don't know.

Plus, I believe I have to take off the throttle bodies to get at the valves as well and I'm afraid of throwing them off synch or something like that. I do have the manual for the R1 (from this site), but still. I'm pretty mechanically inclined as well, but just afraid of messing it up. LOL

Plus, isn't it a b*tch to get in there to loosen up the top of the head to get at the valves with that big azz frame in the way?

However, I guess it wouldn't hurt. Plus, how much are those little disc things? I know you need to get them to adjust the valves, right?

Any info would be appreciated!

 

The change in behavior might be related to the temperature?

Does it go away/get worst as you ride?

I mean,is it better/worst as the engine temp rise?

I wouldnt run a K&N filter without a PC3 re-mapping......

1 simple thing to try is put back the stock filter and see what happend.

Try this and get back to us with your findings.

-->Always try the easiest things first before unbolting anything.

 

Might be time for a new chain... that ended my low speed surging. One side was super tight then 180 degrees later is was super loose, causing the surge. Good luck.

 

Might be time for a new chain... that ended my low speed surging. One side was super tight then 180 degrees later is was super loose, causing the surge. Good luck.

That's EXACTLY how my chain is. It has a super tight section then the rest is so loose I'm afraid of it derailing!

I was wondering if that might be it. Plus, you can feel/hear it clicking when you're going slow enough.

Right now I'm working on a friend ordering me the chain and sprocket set. I was going to change the plugs, check the fuel filter and then replace the chain and sprockets first. Then if all that didn't fix it, I'll have to check into other avenues.

However, I glad to hear that someone did replace the chain and it helped/elminated the problem!

Martinc - It doesn't matter whether the bike is cold or hot...still acts the same. Seems pretty constant actually. Maybe since I'll have the air box off with changing the plugs, I'll throw the original stock filter in. However, I have been running with the K&N with the Jardine exhaust for 20,000 miles and it's JUST NOW doing these problems. Wouldn't it have happened a long time ago (the surging) if that was the case without the PC3?

However I really want to get a PC3....I just keep ending up not having the cash. However, I think I'm going to definitely get the cash for mid-Feb and do it. Damn I hate paying rent. LOL

 

For what it's worth, I was going to suggest cleaning/lubing or replacing the chain and sprockets as well.

Check your wheel bearings also.

 

Well, I just checked my bearings and axles recently because I replaced a set of tires and they were good to go. I relubed everything and put it back together.

So, now I'm going to replace the chain (hopefully next weekend) and see what goes.

I ended up talking to my local dealer's service manager (I was trying to find out if they had a fuel filter in stock) and explained everything going on with the bike and he said that he was 95% sure it's the chain and sprockets.

He said 95% of the time bikes come in for something like that, the chain is totally shot. Puts a new chain on and BAM! it's fixed.

He said very rarely does the TPS die or that the throttle bodies go out of synch. He's not saying it can't happen, of course, but he said to replace the chain and then if it still goes on, then to come see him. However, he said that without even seeing the bike, he thinks it's the chain.

I've had a few people tell me it's not or can't be the chain, but honestly that's what I thought it was to begin with, but then started questioning myself. LOL

 

Just check it out yourself

Any tight spots?
Still original?
Does it rattles when you whip it with your hands?
Can you stretch it out of the rear sprocket by simply pulling on the links?

Try grabbing it with both hands on each side of a link;can you feel any play?

If any of the above,its shot.

 

OH, I KNOW it's shot...

It definitely has kinks, and tight/loose spots in it. It's toast...I've been meaning to change it but haven't had the cash lately. However, I never knew it would cause the "surging" on the bike. That's new to me. I never had that problem with an MX bike, but then again, I never hold steady throttle on that either. LOL

No, I know I need a new chain and sprocket set. I'm still running on the original chain and sprockets and I have 24,000 on the bike. :scared :2bitchsla

 

Well,you"ll be in for a surprise when you"ll see the front sprocket then.......

It must be really worn out.

 

Well, just an update on the surging problem...

I changed out my plugs tonight and they looked fine. They were just barely a TOUCH on the light tan side, so the bike might be SLIGHTLY lean, but they weren't crusty white or ashed or anything. So, I honestly don't think there is anything wrong with the motor...at least the plugs don't indicate it. Doesn't mean a TPS sensor or something could be bad, but I don't know.

As I think I said earlier, a local dealer's service manager told me tonight that he's 95% sure that it's the chain and sprockets causing the problem. I know the chain is totally toast on my bike. I've got one on order and it should be in by next weekend. Hopefully I'll be able to post up and state that the bike is running awesome next weekend after changing out the chain and sprockets.

However, for now, the plugs looked in really decent shape. I can even post a pic in case anyone needs to see them.

 

Get a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. Won't hurt and it will clean up the fuel system. Half a bottle to a full tank. Do it twice. D

 

thanks Mike, but I have done that twice already actually.

Just to see if it would help. LOL

However, changed out the plugs and the lurch/surge is still there. The bike seems to run fine and no hesitation if you play with the throttle in neutral at different RPM levels.

I can't wait to change out the chain and sprockets next weekend to see if that will fix it or not. Otherwise it all looks good except for the surging when riding it.

 

let me know if it fixes it - I have the same problem and have a hard time believing its the chain but let me know Thanks Dan

 

Well here is a late follow up to the original post...2008 R1 with 640 miles on it. Broke it in nice and changed the oil at 250 miles. Ok, I?m not going to lie...I?m hard on the bike. No burnouts but 1st gear clutch up wheelies just about every ride. I've over looked checking the chain tension and today I think it ran off the sprocket but then it popped back on. Bike got real jerky all of a sudden and I had to pull over. Chain was literally lying on the swing arm and running a grove in it. With the tool kit supplied, i moved the rear back about 2.5 hash marks which set the chain at the proper slack. Now when i ride, there is a slight jerking motion when accelerating on the easy side or holding around 4500-5000. After reading this post the chain is probably shot.

Isn't 600 miles weak for a stock chain to stretch and kink ??

 

Well a chain would have to be SUPER loose to jump off sprocket..Not that it had happen to me but any person before riding should look over the bike quick and always be intune with the bike..

Whats this groove you speak of?? Got a pic..

2.5 hash marks aint enough to make the chain come off the sprocket..

A kinked chain could make for a bad ride.

 

I will have pics soon. Nothing bad with the groves but def sign of wear. I don?t have a stand but I walked the bike about 5 feet forward and backwards. Well - there is definitely a chain issue. Within that short distance the chain tightens and sags well over 3/4 inch. It seems that only a portion of the chain got stretched. I?m guessing that this rotation of the chain being tight and loose would explain the slight jerky feel in the ride. I know I?m aggressive but wtf..only 600 miles ?? Should I not ride the bike until this is fixed ? I know tighter is worse than looser and have adjusted the chain along the tight spot to specs.
I will buy a new chain and take the plunge to go -1 in the front. From what I?ve read I will go Vortex and DID but not sure on 520 or 530. Do I have to change the rear at the same time ? I think stock is 520.

 

Sounds like you messed up your tranny or clutch when the chain got locked up. On an unrelated note to what I think your issue is - but somewhat related to the topic - I had a 04 R1 that lurched when at constant idle or constant speed (Sped up , slowed down, up, down - was wierd). For people who have that problem what it was was the exup exhaust valve which attaches to the header. The cables were loose. The computer plays with thatt valve I guess under constant throttle. I tightened up the cables and the problem went away.

 

I checked the linkage and it was tight. The chain is well lubed and has never seen water.

I swung by a local shop with the bike and had one of the techs look at it. Rolling the bike forwards and backwards you can obviously see that the chain goes from tight to loose. He also pointed out the spaces between the link faces are different along the top and bottom runs of the chain. The top section of the chain showed that between the links there was a slightly bigger gap then in the bottom run of the chain that comes off the front sprocket and travels by the lower swing arm to the rear. His rational for the slight jerky feel and 100 rpm fluctuation when riding at a constant RPM is that when the section of the chain that is tight rolls over the front sprocket there is slightly more of a strain on the motor then when the looser section rolls over it; hence the 100rpm fluctuation and jerky feel. Sounded logical to me. He said if there was any out of spec run out on the counter shaft that the chain would be misaligned and the jerky motion would be a lot more and become more pronounced under acceleration. Actually, under acceleration I can not feel any difference. He says that he races his R6 and has over 600 launches and dumps the clutch at 14,000 RPM and has never had a problem with his chain, aluminum sprocket or counter shaft. In order to damage the counter shaft you really have to try he said.

I just purchased a 520 conversion and went -1 on the front with a steel sprocket and stock steel in the rear. The chain is not an o-ring but an X DID chain that was rated for 9500 ft/lbs and was about $190. Hoping for the best. If not fixed I’ll bring it to the dealer under warranty and tell them something is not right.

 

You mean you havent replaced the chain? I thought that was a given already under that scenario. And cmon - you didnt know to keep your chain tight? I"m not sure you should be riding...

 

shit happens yo we arn't all experts like some ..