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My R1 engine rebuild from start to finish complete w/ pics & comments by me...56k LOL

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14K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  1cheapr1  
#1 · (Edited)
My R1 engine rebuild from start to finish complete w/ pics & comments by me...56k LOL

ok so i only had around 30 mins today so here is what i got done

Step 1: using a 10mm wrench remove the 2 bolts on the underside* of the rear of the front seat, it works best to push the seat cushion away from the bolt... be careful not to scratch your tail section, maybe you should put a microfiber towel down to be safe, now that the bolts are removed take the seat off.

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Step 2: using a phillips head screw driver or a 10mm socket, remove the red bettery cable, it is a good idea to place the terminal bolt back on the battery and make it finger tight so you do not lose the bolt

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Step 3: Using various allen wrenches remove both upper and lower side fairing, carefully remove the turn signal harness connectors on both sides

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Step 4: remove the front gas tank bolt, it could be a standard bolt or even an allen head bolt,* now lift the tank up, it has a hinge in the back and prop it up so you can work under it

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step 5: remove all the wires and hoses attached to the bottom side of your gas tank

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Step 6: lower the tank back down, using a 10mm wrench and a 10mm ratchet with a 6 inch extension remove the gas tank's rear hinge bolt, then take the tank off the bike anbd set it somewhere safe, it is a good idea to put the bolt and nut back on the bike after you remove the tank

http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo311/1cheapr1/bikerebuildwalkthru009.jpg

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Step 7: now its time to remove the airbox there are 3 hoses, and one wiring connector, remove those, now using an allen wrech lossen the clamps under the air box, there are 4 clamps, now remove them(some people just pry the air box off)

[IMG]http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo311/1cheapr1/bikerebuildwalkthru010.jpg

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step 8: using an allen wrech or an allen socket, swivel attachment and 12 inch or longer extension on the left side of the bike lossen the clamps under the throttle bodies and set them carefully to the side(see the pictures for the assec point, some people just pry off the throttle bodies, its your call)

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Step 9: now remove the wiring in the picture, 4 coils, 4 coil wires and 2 sensors all in the same wire loom, remove the rubber blanket aswell

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Now i took a break, so your bike should look about like this now:

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#2 · (Edited)
Day 2: notes i had a little time to work with today, so here is another hour and 15 mins for your reading pleasure...

step10:drain and remove the radiator, the drain is next to the oil filter on the left hand side of the bike, make sure you open your radiator fill port so the coolant will flow quicklyremove the hoses, and the fan wiring connector, located under the left handle grip, also remove the 10mm bolt on the bottom side of the radiator and the 10mm directly below the left handle grip

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step 11: remove the exhaust, pipe, mid pipe and headers as one peice, pretty straight forward, there is one bolt on the back one in the middle and several on the front of the motorin the middle of the exhaust there is a little silver cover, remove it, it is held on by 3 8mm bolts, then drop the exhaust down and take the little bracket off that is holding the cables to the thing in the middle of your exhaust, now remove the cables and then the exhaust

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step 12: disconnect any wiring or hoses still on the throttle bodies that we missed last night, 2 hoses on the back of the TB's,
and two harness connectors on the left side, now, using a 10mm wrench, remove the throttle cable and use a marker to mark which one is top and bottom, then using an allen head remove the throttle body idle adjuster from the engine(on the left side of the bike, middle rear of the motor)

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step 13: now disconnect the blue connector on the top right on the motor, the 2 whites on the left rear, 2the 2 whites and one brown on the right rearof the motor, the thick black wire on the starter, then the blue connector on the left rear of the motor, disconnect the grey connector on the bottom of the rectifier(located behind and above the rear shock) disconnect the little blue barrel connector near the starter and finally disconnect the engine ground with a 10mm socket and 6"+ extension

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#3 · (Edited)
step 14: remove the front chain gear cover(my bike seems to be missing this... hmmm?) now go to the rear of the bike and lossen the chain make sure you back off the set nut first on both sides(use a 12mm wrench) then loosen the rear axle with a 32mm wrench or socket on the right side of the bike and slide the tire forward, then remove the little chain gaurd thing in front of the front sprocket(its held in by 2 allen heads), now take the chain off the rear sprocket then off the front sprocket(note: you might have to break the chain depending on the size of chain you have on your bike( i.e. 520, 525, 530)

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step 15: remove the shifter linkage from the motor and the kick stand(both are on the left side of the bike near the back of the motor), then remove the cluch cable by
taking this bracket off

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step 16: brace the motor with a floor jack and a board so you dont crack the oil pan

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step 17: now remove the front engine bolt(they go into the engine head) leave one or two of them in but loose to support the motor), then go to the left side of the motor, down low(right above where the kick stand used to be) and remove the nut, then the bolt on the opposite side, now remove the bolt above the one you just pulled out(about 10 inches above) you will need an allen head socket and a 13mm socket(yours might be a different size, both will need extensions

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step 18: now get a buddy and a crow bar, have your buddy grab the front of the motr(do not hold on to the water necks as they may break...) now drop the bad boy
out and go to bed

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#10 · (Edited)
well we got the engine took apart, the damage is incredible

Destroyed:

Crank, intake cam, exhaust cam, all rods, 3 pistons, head

what cause the damage...

turns out the previous owner when he took the bottom end apart to put in the new transmission he forgot to replace the oil pump drive pin... :drunk:

here is the funny thing... the oil pump light never came on... its really kinda fishy if you ask me

i can not finish this walk thru, i hope it helps some1

i might be taking him to court, i look at it this way:


$580 (yamaha dealership cost to swap an engine)
$100 (complete engine tear down and diagnosis)
+ $1000 (used 2002-2003 r1 engine)
$1680

he has paid me $600 so far