That is the correct torque setting per the manual..... So, First question would be..... is this all stock hardware you are talking about?

 

it's way too much for that size nut...25-35 lbs tops...if you search there was a thread on this... I would say around 30 and loctite...I have a 520 kit with driven sprockets and pro bolt nuts, and anything more than 25 was too much...

30-35ft lbs. max would be for stock...

there was a thread where many have made this same mistake...

 

28 foot pounds is what I torque them to.

Here's the sticky...

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133624

 

That's correct, bone stock. I've done this before and never had a single problem. I just kept on pulling and something just didn't feel right. I took the 2 back off and sure enough the studs and nuts both were stripped. I'm 100% sure they weren't cross-threaded...

 

What the fack... So next question, should I take this to Yamaha over 10 bucks worth of studs and nuts or just eat it... I'm ordering the stuff anyhow because I can't afford to wait. We're already down to one vehicle aside from the bike and when I have to pick up my kid from school I am SOL.

 

If you really want to get what you paid, skip the dealer and write a respectful but clear letter to corporate Yamaha.

Don't call. A letter will make it's way to a person who will need to be accountable for it. If you really want to get fancy, fedex the letter in a box and it will not get "lost" in the mail room.

 

LOL good idear. I just ordered 2 studs and 2 nuts, flipping $12. Lesson learned, again...

 

If you try to torque those sprocket nuts to spec again. Try torquing them to 36 ft/lbs first then to 72 ft/lbs. With most high torque specs, I usually torque half way first, then finish with the other half and I haven't broken an bolt yet (knock on wood).

-Mike

 

With all do respect, 72 ft lbs is a misprint in the service manual. It's way too high for those rear sprocket bolts. As you can see in the aforementioned sticky link above, nearly every member will confirm this.

 

Misprint? No wonder! I always thought 72ft/lbs was kinda high for those M10 sprocket studs. LOL...

 

Funny as I just did a conversion kit on my 2010 and torqued them down to 72lb/ft and had no problem at all. I know for previous years that it was a misprint and forgot about it but how about the 2010. Didn't strip anything at all on all 6 nuts. Should I go back and half torque them or leave well enough alone

 

My first thought when I saw that torque value for those sized fasteners was that 72 ft lbs was WWAAAAYYYY too high. I checked my 2007 service manual and while in the maintenance diagram it does indicate that torque spec, there is a general torque chart on page 2-12 that calls for 22 ft lbs for a 14mm nut on a 10mm bolt which, unless I am wrong, is what sized fasteners are on the rear sprocket. To some that may seem a little low but the manual also calls for self-loccking nuts. One thing to remember, and not to insult anyones intelligence, is that torques specs are determined by the type/size/grade of fateners used and the application in which they are used (shear, torsion, etc.). I'm certainly no engineer but I've been a helicopter mechanic for a long time and torque principles are a part of my everyday life. I'd be much more willing to accept 22 ft lbs especially knowing the steel sprocket studs are mounted in a cast aluminum hub. Of course this tq value is for the stock steel nuts. Aluminum or titanium nuts will have their own tq spec.

 

So I just replaced my sprox and ran into the same problem and I see how u stripped the studs! I found 72ftlbs also so thinkkng that was wrong I decided to work my way up starting around 40 ... Then 50 ... Then 55 ... Then 60 and when I got to around 65 it became so tight that the studs started to turn in the sprocket housing so I left them there!!! Even the svc manager at my dealer was shocked by the mumber whn i called and asked ... If anybody goes further with this and gets an answer please post it!!!!

 

The spec for those nuts should only be 29 ft/lbs. :fact

 

I would be reluctant to call it a "misprint" as the new manual for 2015 model has the same torque value - 100 Nm (72 lbf) It might seem like a lot, but these are class 8.8 nuts and the proof load for them is over 50 KN. (That's over 5 tons!)
I would be more inclined to think that the problem here is :
1. your torque wrench - like any mechanical measuring device it needs maintenance and periodic calibration. So when was the last time you had it checked?

2. your technique. - any joint with multiple bolts/nuts in a single plane need to be done in stages - building to the recommended value in 2-3 goes.

3. preparation - in the factory the studs are pre-treated with a retaining compound (it saves the time and mess on the assembly line). Its a one off deal and after the nut is removed it needs to be thoroughly cleaned off. Wire-brush will not do, use a die and run it down the whole thread of the stud and tap to clean the nut. Apply the required grade of locktite before assembling it all back.
I have never in my life stripped threads by doing it this way and using torque values from the workshop manual.

 

BST wheels state 29 ft/lbs for those nuts.
Plus all of the rear suspension bolts are 10mm too and none of those are more than 32 ft/lbs.
I still believe it's a misprint.