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so stupid.... oil drain plug

2.5K views 23 replies 10 participants last post by  turd1  
#1 ·
Please help...

I feel like such an idiot!!!
Was changing oil (done it many times, never any problems), in a hurry because I waited until the end of the day, and had drained oil, replaced filter...

Was putting drain bolt back in and went to torque it... well, set torque wrench, went to torque bolt. It felt very tight and I thought something was wrong, hadn't clicked yet. Thought I would pull one more time and then back off, and bam!!! I feel the bolt give and knew it was stripped... son of a bitch....take bolt back out and there is some metal hanging on from inside. How STUPID was that!!!! let me have it, I deserve it!!!


but please, tell me how I am gonna fix it. Any help is so much appreciated, I gotta fix it quick, want to ride....DAMN!!!!
 
#4 ·
Did something rahter similar two days ago...


...my new oil pan should be here wed. :(
 
#6 ·
Sabian said:
Did something rahter similar two days ago...


...my new oil pan should be here wed. :(

yeah, that's what I figure I am gonna have to do... damn....

never replaced that... pretty simple?... I am not a mechanic, just do simple things, until I screw them up....LOL :(
 
#8 ·
Helicoil retaps the plug with a larger one. I didn't do it with mine because there is a tab that sits next to the drain hole...not sure you coudl go bigger.

I found a member on the forum selling a pan...30 bucks shipped.

Take all the bolts out of the bottom of the pan...drop it out...no big deal. Need a new gasket to replace the old one though...3 bucks.
 
#11 ·
try the helicoil thing first:fact take your pan off and take it to any good car or bike mechanic shop.... basically its a stainless coil insert you can screw your bolt back into once the helicoil is inserted.... should be less than 10 bucks.... ring around mechanics and ask if they helicoil parts. :fact
 
#12 ·
Shoot man, if you have a drill you can heli-coil it yourself. The heli-coil will tell you what size drill bit to use, it doesn't make the hole that much bigger. Once you drill the hole, insert sleve and you're done.

You may not even have to drop the pan, just flush it, and change the filter after a few a couple hundred miles, just to make sure you got everything out.
 
#13 ·
only 2 ways to fix, new pan or bigger plug. Jiffy Lube did that to my girls Honda Accord and some cuban mechanic stuck a fatter bolt and it has worked for over 2 years...
 
#14 ·
motopsyko32 said:
only 2 ways to fix, new pan or bigger plug. Jiffy Lube did that to my girls Honda Accord and some cuban mechanic stuck a fatter bolt and it has worked for over 2 years...
:confused: 3 ways... the helicoil system works fine.:fact
 
#15 ·
Here's my only problem with the helicoil system for this application.

1. The pan isn't exactly thick and the threads are fairly "short to be trying this. You'll never get it to bottom and break the helicoil tab off, meaning you have to do it yourself and hope they stay seated in the threads you cut.

2. Doing it yourself is pretty spendy for a kit that big. Usually the kit will be $30-$50 bucks, and then the bit size as it's not exactly a small bit so add another few bucks for the drill bit....kinda close to the new/used pan price......

3. the seazling of the drain bolt is done not by the threads, but by the crush washer against the flat machined surface the flange presses against on the bottom of the pan. Drilling to the next size bolt MAY use up this machined surface leaving little to nothing to actually seal against.

I'm not saying it wont work as I'[ve had to do it in the past on customer bikes, but each particular bike was a unique set of problems. some could be, some couldn't for the reason posted above.

:dunno
 
#16 ·
R1Budha said:
Here's my only problem with the helicoil system for this application.

1. The pan isn't exactly thick and the threads are fairly "short to be trying this. You'll never get it to bottom and break the helicoil tab off, meaning you have to do it yourself and hope they stay seated in the threads you cut.

2. Doing it yourself is pretty spendy for a kit that big. Usually the kit will be $30-$50 bucks, and then the bit size as it's not exactly a small bit so add another few bucks for the drill bit....kinda close to the new/used pan price......

3. the seazling of the drain bolt is done not by the threads, but by the crush washer against the flat machined surface the flange presses against on the bottom of the pan. Drilling to the next size bolt MAY use up this machined surface leaving little to nothing to actually seal against.

I'm not saying it wont work as I'[ve had to do it in the past on customer bikes, but each particular bike was a unique set of problems. some could be, some couldn't for the reason posted above.

:dunno
but dosen't a bigger bolt require tapping bigger also?:dunno
 
#18 · (Edited)
another problem... found a guy where I deliver (UPS) in another city from where I live, who can fix it for me. He runs a machine shop making hot rod parts,etc.

Anyway, was gonna take the oil pan off and take it to him, one hex bolt up under the exhaust, can't get wrench to it. Do I have to take part of the exhaust off just to remove the oil pan?... hex wrench I have won't fit between the pipe and the pan, not the one I have. Do they make different length hex wrenches?...
 
#19 ·
R1Budha said:
Here's my only problem with the helicoil system for this application.

1. The pan isn't exactly thick and the threads are fairly "short to be trying this. You'll never get it to bottom and break the helicoil tab off, meaning you have to do it yourself and hope they stay seated in the threads you cut.

2. Doing it yourself is pretty spendy for a kit that big. Usually the kit will be $30-$50 bucks, and then the bit size as it's not exactly a small bit so add another few bucks for the drill bit....kinda close to the new/used pan price......

3. the seazling of the drain bolt is done not by the threads, but by the crush washer against the flat machined surface the flange presses against on the bottom of the pan. Drilling to the next size bolt MAY use up this machined surface leaving little to nothing to actually seal against.


I'm not saying it wont work as I'[ve had to do it in the past on customer bikes, but each particular bike was a unique set of problems. some could be, some couldn't for the reason posted above.

:dunno
:iamwithst
What ever happened to the sigline with the manuals on them budha? That was awfully cool of you.
 
#20 ·
KiR1k said:
another problem... found a guy where I deliver (UPS) in another city from where I live, who can fix it for me. He runs a machine shop making hot rod parts,etc.

Anyway, was gonna take the oil pan off and take it to him, one hex bolt up under the exhaust, can't get wrench to it. Do I have to take part of the exhaust off just to remove the oil pan?... hex wrench I have won't fit between the pipe and the pan, not the one I have. Do they make different length hex wrenches?...
You have to drop the pipes down. Even if you could get that bolt out, the pan has to drop about 3 inches before you can slide it away. There are things that hang below the pan line.
 
#21 ·
blur1 said:
but dosen't a bigger bolt require tapping bigger also?:dunno
yes, thus the reason for replacing the pan most of the time.....

the cost of a pan was about $70 new iirc from when sabian called me about this.....



oh and the manuals are still around.

when they turned of html in sigs, it quit working, but you can still get to them pretty easy if you look..
:crash
 
#22 ·
had a guy I deliver to come to the house and tap it... works at a machine shop, made the bigger drain bolt. Ran about a quart of kerosene thru it to wash out any shavings, ran a little oil back thru to coat everything a little. Getting ready to put oil back in it and see what happens... thanks for all the advice... am so ready to ride, about 70 and sunny here today