530 and 520 refer to the width of the chain. many manufacturers do not recommend making a 520 conversion on anything bigger than a 750cc as it cannot withstand the power. I have the 520, and its been just fine. the main purpose of making the conversion is to save weight (which is about 8 lbs or so).

Also, if you make the conversion, you have to swap both sprockets and chain. I have the AFAM sprockets with an DID ERV3 chain which has held up fine.

 

Okay thanks for the info. I was wondering if the numbers might refer to the width of the chain, but hadn't had a chance to put a caliper on it yet

8 lbs ???? Are you kidding...? That much? That doesn't sound right If it's 8 lbs I'm putting two on ;-)

Ray

 

Get the 520!

530 chain is what you need on a Hayabusa not a R1! Done two 520 kits on my 05 R1 and dropping the front sprocket 1 tooth is the simplest way to get better everyday performance. Less weight is always good if part is still strong enough to do the job! I put a piece of wood through the wheel/swingarm to keep from turning the motor/rear wheel.

 

530 chain is what you need on a Hayabusa not a R1! Done two 520 kits on my 05 R1 and dropping the front sprocket 1 tooth is the simplest way to get better everyday performance. Less weight is always good if part is still strong enough to do the job! I put a piece of wood through the wheel/swingarm to keep from turning the motor/rear wheel.

Okay thanks!

Yeah, I was thinking about just dropping the front from 17 to 16 in order to end up with 2.8125 vs. the stock 2.64706 ratio.

So just put the bike in gear, block the wheel and torque? That's not too hard on the gear box? I guess it's no worse than banging through the gears

Ray

 

I put a 520 set-up on both my 02 and 06 R1's and never had a problem or any significant stretching.

 

When you change teeth on the sprockets (such as -1 in front) do you need to get a different length chain also in order to keep the rear wheel adjustment (i.e. distance) constant - or how do you figure out how many links to order on the chain?

Also, when you change the front/rear sprockets, do you have to put the chain together using a master link or do you just slip the chain around the front sprocket. I see they sell chain tools. Is that just so you can make a custom length chain if you need to or is that required to actually install a new chain on the bike? It appears you can just slip the chain around the front sprocket?

Ray

 

-1 +2 a stock chain lengh will fit. No body bothered to mention that a good 520 chain is actually stronger than the stock 530, weird. The good 520 chains are over 8800 lbs tensile strengh

 

Where the hell did u fine out how strong the stock chain was?

Anyways a rivet link is safer than a materlink but you'll want to get a chain tool if possible. I struggled for years and years without a chain tool but I'm so glad I finally bought one last time! It always helps to have the right tool!

 

I don't remember where I saw it.. But if I remember correctly it is 7500-8000lb range.

 

i went 2 down in the front and 1 up in the back...crazy difference!!!! love it//i think its the best thing i down...might go for the 520 conversion next time tho.....didnt think it could handle the r1......

 

Just this week I put the second 520 set on my bike with the gold/black Stealth rear sprocket and I went -1+2 again. The chain is a gold/gold D.I.D. I would never go for any other set up,awesome.

 

does this job require a tool for the master link or do the new D.I.D. chains come assembled as a continuous loop in the box? I'm not clear if changing over to a 520 front/rear sprocket with new chain means I need to buy something to connect/break the master link on the chains?

Ray

 

There is COUNTLESS 1000cc bikes running on 520.

 

This is my set up.

 

It doesn't come put together... you need a chain breaker tool (usally have the press on it too).... And the link that comes with most chains is no good...

 

You should also look into RK WRK (i think thats what it is)... Its a great chain too. but the DID ERV3 is good also.

 

Okay thanks, I'll check into that. I think as far as the chain, I'm starting to zero in on this one I think:

http://www.didchain.com/xring1.htm

Specifically the X2 one. So I think for my setup (once I change the sprockets), it would be the 520ZVM2. Either that or the DID ERV3. Here is the rivet type and install tool I'm going to get I think:

http://www.didchain.com/install.htm

Still trying to narrow down the sprockets, but so far this one looks pretty good:

http://www.drivesystemsusa.com/p/891902/superlite-520-conversion-black-steel-rear-sprocket-.html

Still searching though...

Ray

 

I decided to hold off on the conversion to the 520 for now. Instead, just ended up ordering a Renthal 16 tooth 530 front sprocket (part # 309U-530-16P). Should be here in a few days. I'm just going to swap it out for the stock from sprocket and see how I like the gearing before I go hog wild and buy a new chain and both sprockets. So for now, sticking with the 530 stuff, but -1 in the front

So we'll see how that goes. Thanks for all the help! I now have a much better understanding of what 520 means

Ray

 

Ray, I have a 16 tooth OEM front sprocket with 2500 miles on it. Yours for shipping costs in an envelope.

I've run Erv2 chain with Sprocket Specialist sprockets

Erv3 chain with Vortex sprockets and now for the first time Erv3 chain and Vortex sprockets on my 06.

 

Thanks very much for the offer! If I hadn't already ordered the Renthal 16T front sprocket, I would have definitely taken you up on that! I'm leaning towards the ERV3 chain in 520 or perhaps their new one (the X2 one). It's nice to hear people are running the aluminum rear sprockets on the street without any major problems. Is the vortex hard anodized? I thought I read some place where that was the only one which is not hard anodized or something?

Ray

 

520 will be more then enough if you take care of it. The only people I would recommend a 530 to are guys who stunt all the time, have a turbo, or want the absolute longest lasting chain kit regardless of weight/cost. Most people go with a 520 kit and have no issues. I have a 520 kit on my r1 and my GSXR 1000 and have never had one issues.

Regardless of what kit you get or what size the most important thing is adjusting the chain slack properly and cleaning/lubing the chain.

 

Most aftermarket 520's are just as strong or even stronger then stock chains. A DID ERV3 is the way to go and you will have as just long of a life as your stock if you maintain it.

Difference in weight between chains,yah there is but the HUGE difference is when anything that rotates starts to do exactly that .... rotate. Your rotating mass between a 530 and a 520 is day and night. :fact
The same applies to rims. Lighter rims, lighter rotating mass which in turn drastically improves performance. :fact

 

Not sure if it's hard anodized, but it's got some type of coating. All coatings eventually wear off and/or thru on sprockets.

I ran a bare aluminum vortex too on my Yzf600r will good results.

The Sprocket Specialist Titan Tough sprockets I ran(years ago) actually wore thru semi-quickly on part of one side on the rear sprocket. Still never faulted beyond that though.

 

You will get far longer drivetrain life out of a steel 530 setup. I opted to stick with the 530 after researching tensile strengths of 520 chains and sprockets. I like piece of mind.

 

True, that extra piece of mind is always a nice thing to have in the back of your mind. When it comes down to it if you are sitting around 8000 - 8500 lbs of tensile strength on average you're good to go. :thumbup

The DID ERV3 sits at around 8600 lbs so there is plenty enough strength for our riding needs unless you want to start dragging your bike of course. :flex:

02R1guy in your picture above, are those the Graves rearsets ???

 

since this is about strength you guys hsould note that did erv3 is one of the weakest chains out there. rk gxw and ek mvxz are stronger, have a better wear life, and only a few ounces heavier. I run the ek mvxz on my bike as I can't justify the price of the did for a weaker chain. Great for racers, but the street guy I'll save a few bucks and run something stronger that is only a few ounces heavier. with the r1's aggressive swingarm angle some sprocket makers are recommending those over the did for the r1. sure did erv3 is a great race chain, but they also doesn't let their sponsored riders do more then one race on the chain.

 

I've been running a 520 RK GXW with a Driven rear and Renthal front for years and thousands of miles with zero problems, and little if any stretch. Street, mild stunt and track.

 

Try these. I like them.




Vortex Racing Yamaha R1 520 Front Sprocket 98-09

Our Price: $26.95


Vortex Racing Yamaha R1 R6 520 Rear Sprockets

Our Price: $60.95 - $65.95
Click here to see more

 

Got mine from McCoy Motorsports - www.tobefast.com

Hope this helps.

 

I went with 520 EK MVXZ kit with driven sprockets from motomummy, has rivet master link....left 120 links and went +1 in the back to offset my BT002 190/55 tire

weight savings was plenty, so far, an excellent choice

 

love the bike dude..looks jsut like mine...but mine has two brothers, and blue rear sprocket...

 

so here are two questions that have come up:

1. I changed my rear tire from a 190/50 to a 190/55 to improve the handling of the bike. Now I'm going to drop -1 in the front sprocket. Will this be a wash as far as the effect it has on the speedo I'm going to test the bike using GPS speed or a speed gun once it's done, but just wondering if anyone has done the math. I tried to find the outside diameter of the Diablo Corsa III on-line, but no luck. I may call Pirelli tomorrow.

2. In making the gears shorter, I have heard a lot of talk about "lower top speed". However, if I'm not mistaken, the R1 isn't red lining in 6th gear at 187 MPH. So my question is that if the bike's top end is only limited by aerodynamics, HP and gearing, then does changing down 1 tooth in front actually affect the top speed? Or might it actually allow the bike to still reach 187 or higher if you have some additional HP and/or through slightly better gearing that would allow the bike to get up into a better RPM range when you start getting up into the 175 to 180+ speed.

Just wondering if anyone has any first hand experience. I've only done 158 MPH once on my bike and that was coming back from San Diego at 3 am on a very long and very straight road when I had to catch my friend in his BMW (who gave me a ride down to buy the bike) after he decided to go 130 while I was fiddling with my gloves

Anyway, just wondering if anyone has the low down on either of those topics.

thanks

Ray

 

a 190/55 actually raises gearing, so theoretically you would gain top speed if you had the power to pull there.

-1 front sprocket with stock 190/50 the actual top speed would be around 172, and would get there a bit quicker

-1 front sprocket with 190/55 tire actual top speed would be around 176-177

This is with stock motor and probably a few bolt on mods(pipe, etc.)

check this site:
http://www.gearingcommander.com/

-1 is equal to almost +3 teath in the rear, but since you have the 190/55 tire which is taller, the -1 gearing in the front isn't as extreme as with the flatter stock 190/50