Take the pan off and get it helicoiled. Maybe you guys call it something different over there, here in Aus we call it heli coil. Any machine shop or reasonable mechanic workshop should be able to do it.

 

Is it possible for me to heli coil it myself without taking the belly pan off?

 

So it's truly the threading in the oil pan that is stripped, and not the threading of the oil plug itself?

 

I haven't seen it yet, but he says he pulled the shavings out from between the bolts threads.

 

Also, do you know the size helicoil kit I need?

 

Agreed ^^^

Take the pan off. It's not hard. You need to drop the headers off the bike (and the mid pipe/cans), but the pan is actually easy to get off.

 

And install a Stalbus drain valve so the moron can't go that again... If you're stupid enough to let him do it again.

 

You do not need to take the oil pan off.

and DO NOT USE A HELI COIL!!

use a TIME SERT!!!

put some tires beside your bike lean it over to one side (on the tires)

take the Bolt out, use TIME SERT tools and insert time sert.

= Complete.

TIME SERT you will need is, M12 x 1.5

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok now for those of you who say why not Heli coil!?!?!?!

here is why.

you pan is only 11GA thick.

a heli coil is like a spring is opens up so inserting this would be no good you need a SOLID piece. (Last a life time, its STEEL, wont Snap like a Heli Coil)

Heli coils can Snap very little pressure

Picture example.

TIME SERT

HELI COIL

 

This is correct. Always use use a time sert. Once installed correctly a 600 pound gorilla will have a hard time stripping it out...you can install one without dropping the pan, take your time, fallow the instructions online, use molly grease on your thread tap to catch metal shavings, change oil and filter after you ride it for after bit. The absolute correct way would be to drop the headers and pan and do it off the bike, therefore you will be %100 sure no metal gets into the engine. Not sure how mechanically inclined you are but installing the time sert does take precision. You can always remove the pan yourself and take it to any machine shop. This is child's play for any machinist. Ive done tons of them over the years because customers strip them out and don't want to pay for a new pan.

 

Thanks for the input guys. After taking a look at it, I noticed the gasket was cracked, probably from over tightening, so I got a good ribbed rubber one, and I also used teflon tape to help the bolt sit in more snug. So far, no leak. This is only temporary until the replacement bolt comes in.

I ordered this from Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/M12-1-50-Sing...ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465234650&sr=1-1&keywords=m12+1.5+oversize

It's an oversized oil plug, which basically forces itself in and rethreads the hole along with it. A couple people recommended I use this, but none of the parts stores in my area hold this specific size. Once this comes in and I replace it, I'll probably do it slowly, a turn at a time (using grease to catch the shavings), pull it out and wipe off the grease/shaving, and then do it another turn further. I will update once I'm done.

 

And this is why i wont buy a used bike from an unknown person.

 

Good thing I plan on keeping this baby forever :icon_wink:

 

I don't see anything wrong with the oversized oil plug. To me, it makes more sense than any type of inserts. I don't like the oil that I just put in anyway, so once the plug comes in I'm changing it again.

Yes, the Teflon tape is ghetto, but the plug will be here in 2 days.

 

you'll have problems with the Plug, sooner or later.

I was 16 when i installed my first time sert and i did it just fine. its really easy.

just make sure you drill and tap straight. no crooked shit.

 

Think about when the drain plug fails, you'll have oil all over your back tyre.

Do it right the first time! Drop the pan and time sert

OR

Mrcycles have new pan for $123
1KB-13400-00-00

 

if you don't have the mechanical aptitude, leave to someone who does.
do it right the first time.
if it fails, best case scenario you loose your bike by ceasing the engine. and very likely bin it due to oil on your rear tire.
worse case scenario you eat shit and die.
we don't want to read another RIP rider thread.
so get off your arse and do it right.

 

How are you so certain this plug will not last? Have you ever used one? Why is the time sert any better?

I get it, you don't agree with people doing things half-assed. It's not my intention to do it half-assed, but so many people have recommended it to me. Why have you automatically cancelled out this option and not the time sert?

 

Go to the top 10 shops in any town. They will give you the same advice about inserts or replacement. Why? Because self starting, single or double or triple or piggyback drain plugs are inherently going to fail. Self tapping screws and bolts were designed to cut threads once and never be removed. Drain plugs are meant to be removed. Oversized drain plugs were meant to be used to get a vehicle to the shop. Look at the early marketing literature of these products. BTW, The $5 it cost doesn't mean you saved $120. on the pan. It means you delayed the replacement/proper repair and forefit the freedom of scheduling that repair

We install 30 - 50 inserts a day. I have seen hundreds of oversized 'repair' bolts fail just this year.

 

They recommended it because they are lazy. easy fix is not always the best fix.

time sert it or new oil pan. or expect problems sooner or later, we cant say any more.

i can see you using this "Bolt" if you plan on selling the bike..... if not then dont.

 

you asked for opinions, you got them.
all these gents gave you the best solutions.
its up to you what you do with the advise given.

NOW go do something and report back.
tell us what you did and the results.
like that we know how much to advise next time :crash

 

you asked for opinions, you got them.
all these gents gave you the best solutions.
its up to you what you do with the advise given.

NOW go do something and report back.
tell us what you did and the results.
like that we know how much to advise next time

Nothing wrong with your opinions and they're appreciated. Just curious if you've heard any bad stories with the oversized bolts or if you know something I don't. I've been looking online and only found one but it was because they installed it incorrectly. I don't see how this plug could fail after a while, as it threads itself in, which is similar to the time sert process.

 

I'm that OCD guy that replaces the oil pan because the fitting is no longer in its originally produced state, and is therefore "lesser" than its originally produced state.

 

ok here it goes
first am OCD :lol
second i am an engineer, i leave nothing to chance.
i understand metals (its what i do for a living)
we work on fighter plane components and it all gets the scrutiny of
our customers, be it X ray or penetrate inspection.
when metals get stressed, they will fail.
if it has a possibility of failure, it will.
not a chance am willing to take.
the oversize bolt should work if done by someone who can machine.
and here is where my OCD kicks in.
i said "should", i would not do it while the pan is on the bike.
remember you are cutting chips as you are rethreading. even if you use grease to capture the chips, you won't catch them all.
i have a problem with that.
if this is the route you want to take, dismount the pan and take it to a machine shop to get it done.
but if you already took it off, might as well install a new one.
ok i can go on for days
i'll stop :lol

good luck and keep us posted

Sounds legit. I will order the oil pan or buy a used one if I don't feel this bolt is 100% secure.

I have a bunch of extra quarts of oil laying around. Do you think it would be best to flush it out with a few quarts of oil after putting in the bolt? Would that suffice your OCD standards? >

 

Yes

 

then no it won't :lol

 

As mentioned, no, no it won't.

 

Do it right do it once. Replace the oil pan. Its one thing to do a temporary fix but once you can replace the pan. No way im pulling the pan to repair it. Just swap out with new one. This isnt a welfare sport.!! Ever had oil on your back tire. Not fun!! Believe me. For 100 bucks you can get a oil pan on ebay done


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App

 

Go to the top 10 shops in any town. They will give you the same advice about inserts or replacement. Why? Because self starting, single or double or triple or piggyback drain plugs are inherently going to fail. Self tapping screws and bolts were designed to cut threads once and never be removed. Drain plugs are meant to be removed. Oversized drain plugs were meant to be used to get a vehicle to the shop. Look at the early marketing literature of these products. BTW, The $5 it cost doesn't mean you saved $120. on the pan. It means you delayed the replacement/proper repair and forefit the freedom of scheduling that repair

ALRIGHT ALRIGHT! ****ing forum bullies... jk :sissy:

mill tech, thanks for the insight. I called around and you're right. Shops won't even touch the bike if it has an oversized plug.

I'm looking at it now. Halo_2 provided the part number, thanks. Anyone have the part number for the oil pan gasket? Are those the only two parts needed for replacing? Also, do I just need to remove the headers to get the oil pan off? I found this thread http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/104-04-06-r1-mechanical-help/160271-oil-pan-removal.html but its for older models.

I'm still going to use the oversized plug. Going to order the pan and gasket, I'll put it in probably at the next oil change.

 

You know you can get oversized plugs that don't ever have to be removed they have a hole in them and a second plug to drain oil also... Local parts store can get you one
I'm not keen on doing it but this would be my only option if I had too...

 

:shake

 

Just make sure 'your boy' uses a torque wrench while installing the new oil pan. Those are some threads you will not want to strip out.

 

Lol, he's not even allowed to look at my bike anymore.

 

I stripped out my oil pan drain plug once....I replaced the oil pan and gasket. It's the best way.

 

Do you have the part number for the gasket?

 

Just a heads up in case anyone is following this thread for oil pan repair, the original bolt size is not M12 x 1.5, it's M14 x 1.5.

 

Don't forget to replace the water pump relief tube seal. Number 20 on the diagram here.