Give him (Rorlow) a little while, he's not as fast with his walker as he used to be but he'll get here eventually :thumbup

But here are some answers although Rorlow will confirm

Torque to same specs
Use Ti prep (anti - seize) not loctite
Suppliers :-

http://www.tastynuts.com/site/frameset.htm

http://www.racebolts.com/

http://www.yoyodyneti.com/category.aspx?categoryID=2692

 

Give him (Rorlow) a little while, he's not as fast with his walker as he used to be but he'll get here eventually :thumbup

But here are some answers although Rorlow will confirm

Torque to same specs
Use Ti prep (anti - seize) not loctite
Suppliers :-

http://www.tastynuts.com/site/frameset.htm

http://www.racebolts.com/

http://www.yoyodyneti.com/category.aspx?categoryID=2692

Scott-

Ian is correct on all the above, torque to OEM specs and use anti-sieze. The only two Ti distributors I use are Pro-Bolt (tasty nuts) or Yoyodyne, I've used them both for years and never had problems with either and highly recommend both.

Pro-Bolt is easier to navigate and choose what you need if your not familiar with metric sizing/bolt configurations. Pro-Bolt groups all their bolts by Manufacturer, Model & year, they also break it down by application (rotor bolts, fork pinch bolts, etc).

I make a habit of checking my bolts regularly as a pre/post ride ritual, another thing I do before it goes on the road in the spring is check & witness mark the fasteners for a quick visual confirmation (note the blue dots on the bolts on mine) :thumbup

Pro-bolt now has a number of their Ti bolts available in race spec (pre-drilled) which are even nicer and easily safety wired.

All my rotor bolts are Yoyodyne flanged hex heads, I prefer flanged hex heads over allen key because a socket gets a better bite on the bolt with less chance of rounding off the allen key or bolt head.

Some photos below of Pro-Bolt Ti fasteners on my bike, pretty much every natural finish (silver) nut/bolt you see, even the Dzus bodywork fasteners are Ti. The majority of the Ti fasteners on my bike are 5+ years old and no issues even with numerous re-installs :secret:

 

I only use titanium from Yoyodyne and Lightech. I also use aluminum from Lightech. Racebolts do NOT have machined heads and do not even match other Racebolts in the same size. I've never tried Tastynuts. You can see some of the differences in pics on my site... http://www.01m1.com

I've never tried Tastynuts. For that matter, I doubt I will unless someone cares to post some detailed pics... hint, hint.

 

I've never tried Tastynuts. For that matter, I doubt I will unless someone cares to post some detailed pics... hint, hint.

Pretty much all my bolts that can be seen are from Pro-Bolt (Tastynuts) and are the RaceSpec drilled ones. Here's a couple of examples for you:

Have you not done your engine mounts yet?
Or any inside the engine including the clutch which is rotating mass! :sneaky

It was one of my plans this Winter to replace all internal engine bolts that can be with either Ti or aluminium but the budget for that went out the window with the latest round of tuning I was amazed when you really get into it just how much weight could in fact be lost form the motor, mainly with alumium bolts in all the non-stressed areas. Think about the weight of the cam cap bolts for examples. There's 28 of them. Then the crankcase joining bolts, some of which are huge. There's 28 of them also. Plus the myriad of internal bolts, holding water/oil pump together etc. Tons of weight to be lost there. I'll never be short of Winter projects, that I know.

I still have the main engine mountings to do, suspension linkage bolts and one day, the three spindles like Blu has :boobies

 

Thanks so much for the help guys. Those pics are great, too, Ron. The blue dots are a great idea. I'll have to steal that one from you when I get my new bolts in. Now to make a list of what I need.

Cheers fellas,
S.

 

Hi Scott,

I see you're gearing up for getting into the TI phase too. Just make sure you have that good ol credit card ready, TI cost$ adds up REALLY quick. I'm over a G at this point.

Rorlow has already answered pretty much all of your concerns.

One thing that helped me along the way was the "guage" thingy that I picked up from Probolt. It will help you measure the correct bolt you need. So my process was to take the bolt off the bike, measure and record what the bolt was used for and refit the bolt until my TI came in. Make sure you take notes since you may get a bag of various bolts and may forget where they are supposed to go. Why do I say that? Been there, done that. :lol

Let me know if you need some measurements for specific bolts, I took a bunch of notes along the way.

-Mike

 

Hi Scott,

One thing that helped me along the way was the "guage" thingy that I picked up from Probolt. It will help you measure the correct bolt you need.

-Mike

:iamwithst

Good one I forgot about that, its well worth the $7 bucks, will help prevent many un-needed purchases, trust me I have more than a couple wrong sized Ti spares in my toolbox :hammer: :lol


Pro-Bolt Pro-Gauge Ref: 15 $7.04 USD


I think this is pretty close to whats on the bike currently :lol

Titanium- Pro Bolt/Yoyodyne
All rotor bolts
Fork pinch bolts
Front fender bolts
All caliper bolts
All triple tree and control fasteners
All damper bolts
All rearset bolts
All engine casing bolts
Rear caliper pin slide bolts
Rear fender bolts
All slider & spool bolts
Threaded bodywork fasteners
Subframe bolts
All reservoir bolts
Front/rear axle nuts/bolts
Windscreen bolts
Exhaust bracket/hanger bolts
Sprocket nuts
Barend bolts
Dzus (D-Ring) bodywork fasteners
Gilles lifter bolts
Pillion peg bolts (to fill in threaded holes)

 

I have about a grand it titanium on my 05 and yes mostly probolts and a little yoyodyne. Get this just found some stock bolts and now have to replace them titanium. The long bolt for the gas tank and the 2 shorties on the side of the gas tank. got to get the titanium. I will say yes you can torque to normal specs. I like rorlow prefer the socket head over the allen head for the same reason better grip and less chance of rounding off.:secret:

 

Yup, did those bolts too. I even went as far as replacing the airbox bolts that no one (except me) will ever see! :lol

Guys that are on the fence about TI... let me warn you that it is a sickness.

-Mike

 

Yes, the bolts that go around the airbox lid.

I'm not sure about your 05 but for my 08 they were M5x0.8 pitch 20mm bolts I needed 9 of them. The Probolt part number is TIHX520.

-Mike

 

Yes, the bolts that go around the airbox lid.

I'm not sure about your 05 but for my 08 they were M5x0.8 pitch 20mm bolts I need 9 of them. The Probolt part number is TIHX520.

-Mike

I thought they were coarse thread but I will check could be thinking about something else. You the man with that one.:secret:

 

If you are looking for the best titanium fasteners money can buy then you need to look at LighTech.

http://www.oppracing.com/products/1418-titanium-bolts-screws/

LighTech uses the highest grades of titanium for all there bolts. You can find cheaper products out there but that is because they are lower grades of titanium with a high degree of aluminum in there. The high amount of aluminum in some titanium bolts is what allows for anodization of the bolts.
If the prices of doing a complete bike in titanium are to high there is always aluminum bolts available as well.

Best Regards,
Tim@OPP

 

I am not getting involved in this thread anymore :no :no :no :lol

 

the Mrs. will never know . . . all the little packages . . . honest honey just a couple bolts :hammer: :lol

 

I'm waiting for the day when I have the money for ti. Soon I hope.

 

Since this thread was brought back up....

Whats the best way to drill Ti bolts for safety wire? This would be for some of the bolts that you can't buy pre-drilled of course. Anything I can get pre-drilled, I will but I haven't seen like the pinch bolts pre-drilled. I've gotten into the habit of safety wiring since I started riding track on a regular basis.

 

Need special bit, and a drill press for drilling out. IMO better to ordered drilled.

To the OP use a grease pen to mark the bolts and nuts dont have to second guess loose hardware. I torque to factory spec.

I use ti prep on all of it. This is to prevent galling, cold welding.

Personally the drilled washers make me want to touch myself...:lhumper:

The first pic of hardware has ti nuts but the bolts are BST spec cush hardware. The second are the narrow head nuts and bolts.

 

I use www.racebolts.com. They offer narrow head nuts and drilled options on all there stuff. Also monthly discounting and free shipping...

I have got stuff from Tasty in UK and Fred at Yoyo. I prefer racebolts.

I have been going in sections and as it stands anything load bearing and unsprung has ti hardware.

Enjoy getting the jewelry

 

My Attack Triple clamps came with all ti hardware

 

Thanks for the info Donnie, I really didn't want to try and drill Ti bolts if I could avoid it. No access to a drill press either so I do all my drilling on the bike. Easy to mess up, especially when trying to drill expensive Ti bolts.

 

And so the sickness begins... Just ordered the bolt gauge and a Ti magnetic drain plug

 

Same here bro... that is why any future purchases will be drilled. Expensive but proper.

 

Must resist

 

Resistance is futile, so says Locutus...

 

is the aluminum range of Probolts for the engine cases safe to use. I know you cant torque aluminum to manu specs, but i dont see those as being any type of load bearing bolts and therefore okay for the switch.

Anyone have any info to suggest otherwise.

 

blue is aluminium:fact

 

I think so... There was this guy on the Duc forums who was bent on having the lightest 998R in the world. Anything non load bearing was in aluminum, or plastic. Yes plastic.

Some would know here, but I bet there is different type of ergal/aluminum that is more desirable then others.

 

Damn me and my broke ass

 

ishouldntbelookingishouldntbelooking!

Not that I can even afford the typing in this post, but I'd like to know if there's a comprehensive list of bolts "needed" for lightening, etc. Like a recipe. Then we could do a group buy....
...and my wife could get pissed too... :sing:

 

Not that I can even afford the typing in this post, but I'd like to know if there's a comprehensive list of bolts "needed" for lightening, etc. Like a recipe. Then we could do a group buy....
...and my wife could get pissed too... :sing:

just start with the biggest and most expensive and work your way down....:lol
i have way over $1000 just in titanium on mine. then there's the blue alloy ones....:crash

 

You titanium junkies make me sick! I can't wait to be just like you:lol.

 

I'm up there with the aussie guy on my 05. I have over $1000 in my 05 in titanium if not way more. Every external bolt is titanium. Even the suspension bolts are titanium. Go figure and my 2010 will be the same way its an addiction.:flex:

 

tail section key lock bolts and front sprocket cover bolts are Ti too, forgot about those :hammer: