yeah 10w40 is fine, most bikes run that viscosity. but if you sit in traffic a lot, 15w-50 is what i got.

 

cool. i found some 10w40 4T at advance auto for 9.98/qt and judging by the prices online going at around 13.50, i think $10/qt is a good deal.

 

What brand is $9.95/qt? That is by no means cheap. Rotella T6 is like $6/qt. I use Amsoil and it's $11.59/qt.

 

Are you 100% sure it says 20W-40 and not 10W-40?

My '09 manual says 10W-40 or 20W-50... There's no reason for Yamaha to change their mind unless it has something to do with the CCT. I use 10W-40.

20W-40 is rare/impossible to find. Yamalube doesn't even make 20W-40 anymore that isn't marine oil.

 

im 100% positive my manual says 20w40 - 20w50. i even asked my wife to read it to me. i used mobil 1 in my honda cbr1000rr and i plan on using mobil 1 in my 2010 R1. i also use mobil 1 in all my other vehicles and i have for the last 6-7 years. i just like it for some reason. anyways, ill take a picture of my manual to document my info and see if it coincides with anyone else on here.

 

 

That is odd, in my opinion.

Here's the same page from my '09 manual. The service manual says the same thing. I wonder what the 2010 service manual says.

 

i dont know what the deal is. its definitely strange and a little frustrating not knowing why. im going to use the 10w40 4T mobil 1 oil when i do my oil change. thats what ive used in previous cycles and i dont know why they would change recommendations without changing engine specs. it just doesnt add up. if they found something out midway through production of a model, you think they would let the rest of the people that have already purchased know whats going on.

 

I have an 08 r1 and the bike dealer told me to use 10w 40 so I did only to find out immediately afterward that it specifically calls for 20w 40. Should I swap it out? Also they said it calls for 3 1/3 at n I'm above the sight line quite a bit. Bout the very top of the site, will this cause harm to my bike? Thanks for reading

 

i think the 10w40 is fine but make sure its motorcycle oil. 4T racing or yamalube or the honda oil or whatever. as far as level, it is important to have the correct amount in there. either drain it all into a clean container and refill until it is at the full line or drain and put new oil in.

 

think i can just drain a bit and stop it? i prolly have only ridden it about five miles. Ok and so my next question is can i drain the oil just leaving the bike on the kickstand. Obviously i can cause thats what i did but maybe it doesnt all out without standing it straight up. That would explain the extra oil in the bike. let me know what you think, thanks!

 

oh and its deffinately motorcycle oil. all of the information and product was advised and givin to me buy my local dealer, (M.A.P.). Thats why i dont i understand why i had to much oil and the wrong called for weight.

 

yama lube use to make 20w 40 but now they do not. Hence they removed it from recommendatoin. Why recommend supplies that they no longer manufacture.

 

But why would they not recommend 20W-40 in 2009, then recommend it in 2010? It's the same motor, and I think they stopped making 20W-40 well before 2009.

I think the 20W-40 recommendation is very peculiar.

 

i just did my oil last night. while i had mine on a stand, i think i would have benefited from taking it off the stand, and leaning it to the kickstand side a bit to get the little bit left in the pan. thats what side the drain plug is on. yes you can change it on a kickstand. its just easier to put it on a rear stand for maneuverability. as far as oil, ive used mobile 1 4T racing oil in almost every motorcycle ive owned, 3 to be exact. my book says 20-40 or 20-50. im not sure about the yamalube discontinuation but the 09 is the same as my 10 and they use 10-40 so it shouldnt be that big of a deal, atleast to me anyways. one thing i did do was change it with yamalube 10-40 for the 600 mile change for break in, and ill change it again at 1000 -1500 miles again with another round of yamalube 10-40. then at around 3k miles ill be switching over to the mobile 1 4T racing synthetic for the remainder of the engines life. just personal preference due to mass reading and research.
as far as draining a little to lower the level, it can be done but gets VERY messy Very fast trying to put the plug back in while oil is draining out. thats y i said just drain it into a clean container and refill to proper level. give it a shot and if it doesnt work, u can just drain the whole pan. good luck bro.

 

If you look 20 grade is good to 50 degrees, that would be no good here in WI.

Using 10w - 40 instead will create no problems it will just be better for operating in cooler temps than 50

 

20c not 20f :2bitchsla

 

Has it occurred to anyone it may just be a misprint too. after all they screwed up big time on rear sprocket nut torques on the 04-06 and never changed anything.
Not giving a recommendation for temps below 50 degrees is a major oversight, or maybe the new ones aren't meant to be out of the garage when it's chilly :lol

 

Anybody have a manual for their 2011 R1 yet? :lol

 

So according to the chart what are you supposed to use below 50F? Are the 2010's only to be used in temperatures over 50F? :no

Looks like yamaha forgot to include 10w40 on their chart.

 

Call Yamaha Motor USA. They will connect you with a tech. :thumbup

 

Here you go...

Yamaha Motor Corporation, USA
6555 Katella Avenue
Cypress, CA 90630

Sales, marketing and distribution of Motorcycles, ATVs, Snowmobiles and Race Kart Engines.

Customer Relations
(800) 962-7926

 

Does anybody have a 2011 manual they can check? If the same oil is recommended for the 2011 R1's, a call to Yamaha might be in order to verify either

A) Their **** up.
B) Why the new recommended oil weight changed.

 

you should be able to Download a pdf of the manual from yamahas website. google 2011 R1 manual and you should be able to find a link. ill do the same.

 

just looked and yamaha only had up to 2010 owners manuals. i guess a call should be in order after all.

 

I don't see what the big deal is. Run 10W-40 unless it's summer in the desert then run 20W-50.

I wonder if they changed it because of the CCT issue, thinking that a thicker oil and startup would alleviate the CCT noise? I tried 20W-50 in my '09 and it made no difference in the CCT noise.