I found this information on another thread that really helped me out a lot.. Check it out.
1) Clutch - Most people will recommend "clutching up" wheelies. You do this (with stock gearing) by cruising at approximately 50-60mph in 2nd gear and you keep the throttle at the exact constant position that it is in while pulling the clutch in about 85-95%...at this point the revs climb slightly, then you release the clutch all the way and give the bike about 90-95% throttle. The front wheel should come right up. This sounds complicated and drawn out, but keep in mind it is all one fluid motion...that, from beginning to end, takes less than one second to complete.
The number one issue of people complaining that this method does not work well for them is that they are simply not giving enough throttle in fear that they will loop their bike. It is understandable, because when clutching up wheelies the bike seems to come up very fast/abruptly. If you have difficulty with this technique, it is usually that you need to give it more throttle, or you need to work on your timing. *As you release the clutch you must be simultaneously giving it massive amounts of throttle.
Personally I do not like clutching wheelies. The wheel does not come up smooth, and when you first learn how to clutch them up you are sitting down. So essentially, at a beginner's level, this is a sit-down wheelie...and I hate sit-down wheelies. If you think about the physics involved, sit down wheelies are much harder to control and balance because your body's weight is so close to the center of gravity of the bike. It becomes easier to balance and ride out wheelies longer if you spread out the center of gravity of you and the bike...and you do this by distancing your own body weight from the bike's weight, which leads me to the next method of doing wheelies: bouncing up wheelies.
2) Bounce - This method does not utilize the clutch in anyway shape or form. This is a plus in that it does not wear on your clutch as the previous method does. You begin the same way as clutch-ups...cruise at approximately 50-60mph in 2nd gear, keeping the throttle constant, you lift your butt off of the seat just 2-3 inches or so, and while keeping your knees bent and soft/flexible, you bounce down sharply and abruptly on the FOOTPEGS (NOT the clip-ons), simultaneously give the bike 100% throttle while standing up all the way and straightening your body out. As you bounce down, give the bike throttle, and as the bike begins to come up, stand up and pull slightly on the clip-ons. Now this sounds complicated, but again it is ONE FLUID motion that takes less than one second to complete. Let me clarify what to do with your body as the front wheel comes up...what I end up doing as the bike comes up is stand up straight (90 degrees to the ground), straighten out my arms and legs (but NOT locking them), and I lean back as far as I can without falling backwards off of the bike. It is important NOT to lock out your arms and legs...keep them slightly bent and flexible. What this does is allows more room for error as you atempt to ride the wheelie out for long distances. Leaning back does two things: distances your body from the bike, creating a HUGE center of balance so that you have more room for throttle error, and it allows you to find a LOWER balance point. What I mean by this is that if you can visualize in your head, a side shot of the bike at a 45 degree angle...and then visualize you on the bike at a 90 degree angle - standing on the foot pegs, you will see that as you move backward and make that 90 degree angle larger (91, 92, etc) you increase the bikes balance point range.
This is why I LOVE stand-up wheelies. You have sooO much more control over the bike while doing a wheelie if you are standing as opposed to sitting. If you feel the front wheel starting to go down, instead of trying to meticulously manipulate the throttle millimeter by millimeter, you can simply lean your body back half an inch farther from the bike and the front wheel will stay up. Vice-versa, if you feel the front wheel coming back up at you too much, like you might loop it, instead of slamming the throttle shut because you just shat yourself, you can simply lean your body closer to the bike in efforts to balance out the wheelie longer. You are basically using your body as a large counter balance to the bike. This, combined with good throttle manipulation results in the ability to ride wheelies out for miles.
*The main reason for this method not working out well is TIMING and THROTTLE.
Most are afraid to give it too much throttle because the bike comes up too far or too fast. You will just have to ease into your comfort zone on this. It's just a fact of mechanics and physics...you gotta give it maddd throttle yO! As fas as the timing...you must understand the physics involved with this method:
The bouncing method works because what you are doing is compressing the entire bike's suspension when you bounce down on the foot pegs, and as the suspension DE-compresses (expands back up) you give it full throttle and lean backwards. These two things go hand and hand...and the TIMING must be perfect. You must give throttle when the suspension is decompressing (on it's way back up)...if you give throttle too late (what most beginner do), the bike is not going to come up no matter how much power you have. The compressing and decompressing takes a fraction of a second...most beginners bounce down, pause, then give it throttle. It is already too late, the bike has already decompressed all the way. Best thing to do is to actually give throttle at the same exact moment you bounce down. By the time the bike compresses down fully, you want to be giving it full throttle. It just takes practice, but once you get it you will think "OMG, it's SO easy to do!".
It will eventually become second nature, and you won't even think about all the steps. Kinda like shifting through gears on a bike or in a manual car.
Others here have mentioned to cover the back brake with your foot. This is also another wheelie balance manipulation tool. As you feel the bike come back too far and you know it's coming too fast for you to lean forward or even close the throttle, you can simply tap on the back brake and the front wheel will immediately go down. You can even manipulate the back brake by applying the back brake ever so slightly when the bike is passed the balance point and ride out wheelies with the throttle closed completely...this is much more advance wheelying and is called "coasters".
Okay...I think I've spent enough government tax dollars typing up all this at work.
On a final note, just remember that it takes practice and time. You won't be riding out wheelies for miles in the first few weeks you try. It takes months, even years to be good at it. Just be safe by always wearing full gear and practice on closed roads or roads with no traffic or people around.
