[Y2KR1-Still]

I've searched high and low and cannot find the problem/issue with my Y2KR1. The bike starts and idles great. It's also great after about 3k RPM, very strong, one-wheeled bandit, etc. The problem is getting the bike moving. When I put the bike in gear its fine but when I start to release the clutch and give a little gas to go, it bogs and would stall if I didn't ride the clutch and keep the RPM high. Once the clutch is out the bike is violently stuttering until it reaches about 3k RPM. The bike did sit for a long time (6 or so months due to the Taliban). I am the original owner, the bike has a Mig High pipe (slip on) and no other mods except cosmetic. I got the pipe in 2002 and has never caused an issue with all the original bike settings.

Here is what I have done so far to fix the issue.
1. Oil and filter (not really applicable but done nonetheless).
2. New fuel filter (not the OEM one, but I don't suspect this because I have had the bike up to 250kph so if the fuel filter is starving the bike it probably would not run smooth at those speeds. Standing by to be correct...
3. Cleaned out the tank and added a bottle of carb cleaner.
4. Checked the air filter and it looks new (I bought a new one but didn't bother putting it in yet because the old one looks so good.)
5. Checked the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and it was at 10k so I reset it to 5k per the service manual.
6. Pulled the carbs (ugh). The pilot jets were gummed up so I cleaned them, the main jets were clean but I gave them due attention (I forgot to check the stamp but I assume they are 130s). Floats were free and moving and the diaphragms were also OK. Needles looked OK.
7. Mixture screws. Being the original owner I had to drill out the brass plugs (ugh). Once I did that, I counted how many turns to screw the mixture screws full "in". This surprised me. They were not equally matched and varied between 3.5 turns and almost 5 out! I looked at the service manual and it says 2.5 turns out is where they should be so I did this and the put a drop of nail polish on the side (poor mans lock tight).
8. 4 new NGK CR9E plugs (OEM).
9. Checked that the plug wires are seated nicely on the plugs.
10. Ran the bike with no air filter (just in my garage) to see if the carbs are pulling in air (good suction) and they were. If I put my palm over one it sucked it in and stalled (thats a good thing).

All this and nothing. Exup valve? Why would the bike run like new in idle and over 3k but act like its ready for the scrap yard getting moving? Help!

Thanks in advance to any replies.

Edit: Just checked the rectifier/plug and its nice and white....no burns and nothing disconnected. I took off the lower cowl to check the EXUP so I started it and decided to check the temps of the headers with my hand first. 3+4 were scorching hot after 10sec. 1+2 were cold at that same time but 2 became warm after about 20 sec then hot. Could this just be radiated/convection heat transfer for #3? #1 stays cold the entire time. Not sure how to fix it though. I'm thinking ---> check the plugs/connection again and the coils? How do I check coils for strong connect/currents? I will be surprised if this is the fix to the above problem since the bike still flies and will wheelie with ease (on 2-3 cylinders only?!?!?)...ugh.

 

[Y2KR1-Still]

I just checked the spark from all 4 cylinders and they all have spark and look good/similar. When I place my palm over the carb air intake 1 and 2 the bike does not stall. When I do this over 3 or 4 it does stall Also, (this is new) I noticed gas coming from one of the overflow tubes near the kick stand and there is black (carbon saturated) gas coming from the exhaust connection where the exhaust manifold meets the high pipe slip on. Seems to be an indication of air/fuel mixture entering cylinder 1 and 2 but not burning and the excess gets dumped out as the next stroke happens. Not good obviously but I'm at a loss at trying to figure out how to fix it. Valves? Timings? Coil?

Bueller?

Thanks again.

Edit: Could it be that the TPS should be put back to 10K RPM? Even though the service manual says 5K is stock setting? I am leaning towards a timing issue since the cylinders are all getting fuel and all have spark. Or perhaps the spark is not strong enough? I am going to check the resistance of the coils now.

 

[Sharksawyer]

If the bike ran fine before sitting for 6 months, you have carb problems. I would pull them again and re-clean along with cleaning the fuel inlet valves. Did you squirt carb cleaner up the pilot jet hole after they were removed? Did you blow compressed air through and could you see through the pilot jets after cleaning? While you have the carbs out, I'd check the floats and make sure they are all the same height. Spec is 4.1 to 5.1mm measured from the gasket base to the top of the float.

Mark
99 R1

 

[Y2KR1-Still]

I will try pulling the carbs again. I did clean the main and pilot jets with carb cleaner and then used compressed air on them. The pilots were dirty so I figured I had the problem solved. I can see nice light through them now. I did not measure for float specs. What baffles me the most is why my #2 exhaust manifold is cold after starting the bike and running for a few potatoes. The other 3 are scorching hot.

I did notice 2 other posts having similar issues with no answers.

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=259807

and

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230742

 

[Sharksawyer]

See my post about cleaning more than just the jets.

Mark

 

[Y2KR1-Still]

Is this your write up or was there a sticky somewhere?

Pull the tank, drain your float bowls, loosen the screws on the carb boots, remove entire carb bank and flip it upside down. Pull float bowls, remove your pilot and main jets and clean them with carb cleaner. I'd also squirt a bit of carb cleaner into the fuel inlet ports and also clean the little rubber stoppers. No reason to pull the throttle cables and make sure you put an old rag over the intake ports so you don't lose any screws in unwanted places. After cleaning your pilot jets, it's a good idea to blow compressed air through them to make sure they're open. I'd also check all four float heights to make sure you didn't mess one of them up. They should all be the same.

Thanks Mark!

 

[Sharksawyer]

Is this your write up or was there a sticky somewhere?

Pull the tank, drain your float bowls, loosen the screws on the carb boots, remove entire carb bank and flip it upside down. Pull float bowls, remove your pilot and main jets and clean them with carb cleaner. I'd also squirt a bit of carb cleaner into the fuel inlet ports and also clean the little rubber stoppers. No reason to pull the throttle cables and make sure you put an old rag over the intake ports so you don't lose any screws in unwanted places. After cleaning your pilot jets, it's a good idea to blow compressed air through them to make sure they're open. I'd also check all four float heights to make sure you didn't mess one of them up. They should all be the same.

Thanks Mark!

Yea, that's mine but I forgot to include pulling the choke cable before removing the entire carb bank.

Mark

 

[Y2KR1-Still]

No worries, I have a service manual so getting the carbs off is a non-player. Here are some pics of the jets, etc. I noticed the Air Pilot Jets were gummed up which surprised me. The rest are good. I haven't put the bike back together yet, fingers are crossed. Not sure this will fix the issue of #2 cylinder being cold while the bike is running but who knows. I will test the coils next.

more to follow...

Edit. I should add that if you are wondering what the pink stuff is on the mixture screw its my version of lock-tight!

 

[Y2KR1-Still]

I just measured the pri and sec coil resistances.

Pri - 2.4 and 2.5
Sec - 15.15 and 15.4 (no plug boots). 35.3 and 36.8 with plug boots.

Service Manual Specs:
Primary coil resistance 1.87 ~ 2.53 W
Secondary coil resistance 12 ~ 18 kW

So...they are within spec. I cut back a little plug wire to get a better connection with the boot anyway.

New problem though. I reconnected it all and the float chambers 2 & 4 are leaking gas. I think the rubber seals are too old to hack the program. They are kinda of stiff and hard so I will have to order new ones. I will probably get a rebuild kit (needle valves/o-rings at the same time).

Ugh.

 

[Y2KR1-Still]

Just installed new float chamber gaskets and new needle valve and seat kit. The bike runs like a champ now. Next test will be a ride this weekend through the Rockies!

 

[Sharksawyer]

Just installed new float chamber gaskets and new needle valve and seat kit. The bike runs like a champ now. Next test will be a ride this weekend through the Rockies!

Glad you got it going. Enjoy!

Mark

 

[crxforya]

Im glad you got it going too. I guess Im going to have to tear down my carbies and check the jets. Thanks for being so specific in your write/up question.

 

[Y2KR1-Still]

Update: Did 2k km in 3 days through the mountains. Bike ran like new.

New problem: The gas shut-off valve under the tank leaks! I left the bike in the garage for 2 weeks while I was away and I returned to a puddle of gas under the bike....boo. I took the tank off and took apart the valve. The rubber gaskets are in similar shape to the ones in from the carbs before the rebuild. Hard and flat versus soft and round. I know what my next purchase will be!