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Quickshifter Question

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StOBeR

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Here's the bike and the details first:

- 2008 ZX-R Track Bike
- Kit ECU
- PC-3 USB
- Quick Shifter 4-103 or 4-101 Pull Type (Can't remember the part number)

So I was told by the original owner, who built the bike from the crate, that the bike had a race ecu in it and was already wired for a quick shifter. He said the bike actually had one until it broke at daytona. Anyways I bought a used quick shifter sensor off eBay and get the shift rod from riders discount and went to install it this afternoon. I was told by the original owner that there was a green and blue wire under the seat taped up and all I needed to do to get the quick shifter working is hook it up and connect green to green and blue to blue, so I did. When the bike is on a stand it seems as if the quickshifter is working fine as I run it through the gears, but when I put the bike on the ground and ride it through the neighborhood when I go to shift, while under power, the shift lever will not move down to complete the shift. It's stiff as concrete. If I open the throttle or pull the clutch I'm able to make the shift, but for some reason the shift won't work while under power.

Do I have a bad quick shifter sensor? If so, I got screwed on eBay. Is there anyway to have this unit fixed if I sent it back to power commander? If not anyone have one for sale?

Thanks for the help guys.
 
#4 ·
Stober. Check to make sure that the sensor is acting like a switch by looking for continuity across the two wires of the sensor. it should activate with a fair bit of pressure on the shift lever, and show continuity when pressure is on the shift rod.

Next thing I would do is track the wires to the ECU. I would expect one to go to ground, and the other to be into the ECU.

After that, you need to make sure you have continuity along all those wires. Then you need to check that the ECU is actually programed for QS, which I can't offer any advice...:dunno.

Also, don't worry if the sensor does not activate will well after the shift with the motor running. But it should activate.

Another thought could be that the QS activation RPM is set higher than you expect. In the F-T software (for example not that it has anything to do with what you use) the default is 4K RPM, so if you just tool around putting at a few thousand it wont work because you are not above the activation level.

Just some thoughts....good luck figuring it out.
 
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Discussion starter · #9 ·
Tad158 said:
Stober. Check to make sure that the sensor is acting like a switch by looking for continuity across the two wires of the sensor. it should activate with a fair bit of pressure on the shift lever, and show continuity when pressure is on the shift rod.

Next thing I would do is track the wires to the ECU. I would expect one to go to ground, and the other to be into the ECU.

After that, you need to make sure you have continuity along all those wires. Then you need to check that the ECU is actually programed for QS, which I can't offer any advice...:dunno.

Also, don't worry if the sensor does not activate will well after the shift with the motor running. But it should activate.

Another thought could be that the QS activation RPM is set higher than you expect. In the F-T software (for example not that it has anything to do with what you use) the default is 4K RPM, so if you just tool around putting at a few thousand it wont work because you are not above the activation level.

Just some thoughts....good luck figuring it out.
Click to expand...
Wow, thanks for all the info. I can tell you know what your talking about. Unfortunately I'm electrically impaired so I'm going to have to get someone who's knows how to test it for me.

I've tried shifting at 4k and at 10k and I get nothing but a rock hard shift lever. So I dunno.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Stober, to figure out which sensor you need just look at what happens to the shift rod, push or pull. If you have the opposite sensor, everything could be hooked up and working properly and it would not function...

Also, another thing you can do is start the bike, and put a regular chunk of wire between the two terminals that you have the QS sensor hooked up to. Then once you hit the activation RPM, it should shudder and you should notice a kill. This removes the sensor from the loop, and should simulate the sensor always asking for a shift....:dunno just a thought.
 
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#16 ·
Redgecko said:
Yep, Satos will do std and GP with the same sensor :fact
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Yah, but you still need to knwo what sensor to get. My point is with say the oem rearsets you may need a pull sensor, but if you get aftermarket the exact same shift pattern may be a push sensor. So you can't ask what type you need w/o stating what rearsets you have. It's the #1 mistake people make with rearsets. What is annoying is bazzaz sells the "standard shift" and "gp shift", but by doing it this way and not "push" or "pull" like Dynojet it doesn't take into account aftermarket rearsets. Many order say "standard shift" and then get it and realize that with their aftermarket rearsets the standard shift is the wrong sensor they need for standard shifting as the aftermarket rearsets reversed the direction the shifter goes when upshifting.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Which way does the rod move when you shift from 3rd to 4th?....Because it depends on the trans, and which direction on the shift haft corresponds to an up-shift... So you need to figure that out first...
 
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Discussion starter · #20 ·
Tad158 said:
Which way does the rod move when you shift from 3rd to 4th?....Because it depends on the trans, and which direction on the shift haft corresponds to an up-shift... So you need to figure that out first...
Click to expand...
When I push down to shift from 3rd to 4th the black shift rod moves towards the rear tire.

When I'm downshifting the black rod is moving towards the front tire.
 
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