[Tad158]

When I push down to shift from 3rd to 4th the black shift rod moves towards the rear tire.

When I'm downshifting the black rod is moving towards the front tire.

So it is a reverse shift pattern? But if the shift rod moves toward the rear that that configuration it should be a pull sensor.

 

[StOBeR]

So it is a reverse shift pattern? But if the shift rod moves toward the rear that that configuration it should be a pull sensor.

I believe that's correct. Is there any way to look at the sensor to verify that it is in fact a pull sensor? The marker has worn away so honestly the guy could have sold me a push and mistakenly advertised it as a pull :dunno

On my newer qs, there is a sticker with the part number and it also indicates push for my 09 R1, but this black sensor on the ZX-6r has white blocks, where you are supposed to check the box with a permanent marker, which has worn away so I'm kinda worried now I may have the wrong sensor.

 

[Tad158]

I would just put a multimeter across the two wires coming from the QS sensor (unplugged from what it is plugged into now), and look to see when it changes from an open (very large resistance) to a closed circuit (very small an ohm or so of resistance or a beep in continuity mode). Then see what direction changes it from open to closed...

 

[StOBeR]

I just flipped the shift pattern back to standard so I can test it in this setup. If it works then I have a push sensor and need to sell for the pull sensor, correct?

 

[Redgecko]

I just flipped the shift pattern back to standard so I can test it in this setup. If it works then I have a push sensor and need to sell for the pull sensor, correct?

Yep

 

[Tad158]

That will test the full setup....if it does not work you will need to start chasing the wiring.

 

[StOBeR]

Sounds good, thanks for the help. I'll know tomorrow one of two things. I've either got a wiring issue or a bad sensor.

 

[Redgecko]

Sounds good, thanks for the help. I'll know tomorrow one of two things. I've either got a wiring issue or a bad sensor.

Unfortunately if it doesn't work tomorrow you still wont know if it's the sensor or wiring :dunno

Hopefully it works and you just need a different sensor though.

 

[Tad158]

Unfortunately if it doesn't work tomorrow you still wont know if it's the sensor or wiring :dunno

Hopefully it works and you just need a different sensor though.

:iamwithst....Thats why I suggested the multimeter test...

 

[StOBeR]

Unfortunately if it doesn't work tomorrow you still wont know if it's the sensor or wiring :dunno

Hopefully it works and you just need a different sensor though.

Yea I guess your right LoL. Oh we'll let's hope it works then damnit.

 

[bacchus40]

:iamwithst....Thats why I suggested the multimeter test...

i'm with yah... its pretty straight forward to find out... :fact

 

[StOBeR]

Okay, I got a multimeter from work so I'm going to do the ohm test when I get home.

I also spoke with dynojet and he told me if the green and blue wires under the seat are still connected to the kit ecu I can touch the two wires together while the bike is running it should send some kind of signal to the ecu which will kill the bike since the shift wasn't actually made, or something like that. :dunno

Does that sound right? Either way I'm going to try it out when I get home and find out.

 

[Redgecko]

Okay, I got a multimeter from work so I'm going to do the ohm test when I get home.

I also spoke with dynojet and he told me if the green and blue wires under the seat are still connected to the kit ecu I can touch the two wires together while the bike is running it should send some kind of signal to the ecu which will kill the bike since the shift wasn't actually made, or something like that. :dunno

Does that sound right? Either way I'm going to try it out when I get home and find out.

Yep that's what Tad was telling you to do in post 15

 

[StOBeR]

Yep that's what Tad was telling you to do in post 15

Damn must have missed that post somehow. Well thanks TAD wish I would have seen that last night. I'll update you guys later tonight on what happens.

 

[Tad158]

Yep that's what Tad was telling you to do in post 15

:iamwithst...:lol...no biggie...

:cornfor the results...though remember that you probably need to have the bike above an activation RPM for that test to work.

 

[StOBeR]

Okay here's what I just did.

1.) Unhooked the wiring from the sensor to the wire harness.
2.) got my handy dandy multimeter (that I've never used) and turned it to 200 ohms.
3.) hooked green to positive and blue to negative.
4.) shifted in the gp style (which I was told this sensor is for, since standard shift calls for a push and the sensor I have is supposed to be a pull). Anyways when I shifted I got no reading.
5.) so for the hell of it I shifted in the other direction, which would mean this sensor is a push sensor for the standard shift pattern 1 down and 5 up, and low and behold the damn reading was displayed and the multimeter was beeeeeeeeepin.
6.) for the next test, since I assume its safe to say I've got the wrong sensor, I connected the blue and green wire coming from the wire harness as Tad said to do in post 15 and started the bike, but the bike is not dying or cutting off. Do you think that means there is a wiring issue to the ecu?

How can I tell if the race ecu is still in this bike? For all I know he just sold me a bill of goods on the kit ecu.... :dunno

 

[Tad158]

Okay here's what I just did.

1.) Unhooked the wiring from the sensor to the wire harness.
2.) got my handy dandy multimeter (that I've never used) and turned it to 200 ohms.
3.) hooked green to positive and blue to negative.
4.) shifted in the gp style (which I was told this sensor is for, since standard shift calls for a push and the sensor I have is supposed to be a pull). Anyways when I shifted I got no reading.
5.) so for the hell of it I shifted in the other direction, which would mean this sensor is a push sensor for the standard shift pattern 1 down and 5 up, and low and behold the damn reading was displayed and the multimeter was beeeeeeeeepin.
6.) for the next test, since I assume its safe to say I've got the wrong sensor, I connected the blue and green wire coming from the wire harness as Tad said to do in post 15 and started the bike, but the bike is not dying or cutting off. Do you think that means there is a wiring issue to the ecu?

How can I tell if the race ecu is still in this bike? For all I know he just sold me a bill of goods on the kit ecu.... :dunno

Ok well we know that it seems to be a push not a pull....

Also, when you connected the two wires on the bike side, not the sensor side it made no change on an idling bike....thats ok....

You need to rev the bike up....it should die/shutter as soon as it gets to its activation RPM. Not being active at idle is a good thing, because every time you accidentally sit there with the clutch in and select 2nd and not 1st from neutral it would die....


Try revving the engine above 8-10K RPM you should hear a kill at some point....

 

[StOBeR]

Ok well we know that it seems to be a push not a pull....

Also, when you connected the two wires on the bike side, not the sensor side it made no change on an idling bike....thats ok....

You need to rev the bike up....it should die/shutter as soon as it gets to its activation RPM. Not being active at idle is a good thing, because every time you accidentally sit there with the clutch in and select 2nd and not 1st from neutral it would die....


Try revving the engine above 8-10K RPM you should hear a kill at some point....

I'm getting nothing when I rev it in neutral or in gear on a stand. I'm guessing something either missing (hence the kit ecu, maybe someone put the stock ecu back in it) or I have an electrical issue.

 

[Tad158]

Yep, next you gotta track down where those wires go. Once you find the other end, you can look for continuity down them.

 

[molonlabe]

Figured since all the QSperts are here I'd ask here. If it's smooth sometimes but jumpy others should I add kill time or deduct kill time? Or is tjis just the nature of dynojet QS? Kill time is crrently at 60.
Thanks in advance.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App