[TNKing]

Just street riding

 

[MaRce1o]

any insight on this, please? Pirelli superbike sc2 ran at 1.8 bar hot.

How old is the rear shock?

 

[MaRce1o]

Just street riding

Can't really see the picture very well on my phone so I can't tell if those grooves are raised or lowered

 

[DarkHorse]

Street sweepers. Michelin Super Sport. Front: 31psi, Rear: 30psi Cold.

 

[Shifu]

any insight on this, please? Pirelli superbike sc2 ran at 1.8 bar hot.

That little ridge is only in the area when you are getting back on the gas and is the result of rubber being forced into the dimple. You can take a click or two of rebound damping but it looks pretty good.:thumbup

 

[timdingo]

How old is the rear shock?

That's a WP 4618 Competition, last serviced 2 seasons ago (2013).

That little ridge is only in the area when you are getting back on the gas and is the result of rubber being forced into the dimple. You can take a click or two of rebound damping but it looks pretty good.:thumbup

Yeh, it's exactly that little ridge that I want to even out
So, practically: I just turn rebound less and less until the indicators more or less even out or I start feeling uncomfortable in the rear, is that the correct approach?

 

[Shifu]

That's a WP 4618 Competition, last serviced 2 seasons ago (2013).

Yeh, it's exactly that little ridge that I want to even out
So, practically: I just turn rebound less and less until the indicators more or less even out or I start feeling uncomfortable in the rear, is that the correct approach?

Well, you will be able to decrease it a bit but I doubt whether you get rid of it altogether unless you get gentler on the throttle. Under a lot of power the tire twists and deforms and pushes the front edge of that thread depth indicator into it. Once the tire comes back to its original shape that little pip just pops back out. It is not caused by a suspension problem. Your tire wear pattern looks almost textbook good so I wouldn't worry too much.
I would definitely have that shock serviced though. It's long overdue :icon_wink:

 

[timdingo]

Well, you will be able to decrease it a bit but I doubt whether you get rid of it altogether unless you get gentler on the throttle.

Gentler as in less acceleration from the apex or gentler as in opening the throttle less linear from fully closed?
The first is not an option, obviously but I could put a non-linear thingy in my quick-action throttle although I prefer it the way it is now.

Under a lot of power the tire twists and deforms and pushes the front edge of that thread depth indicator into it. Once the tire comes back to its original shape that little pip just pops back out. It is not caused by a suspension problem. Your tire wear pattern looks almost textbook good so I wouldn't worry too much.

That I didn't know!
So I may assume this pattern wear and ridge deformation (with some slight rebound adjustment still to do) as being perfect then?

I would definitely have that shock serviced though. It's long overdue :icon_wink:

I haven't noticed any problems at all with my shock since it got last got serviced and I barely changed its settings apart from minor pre-load adjustments due to losing some weight and some minor rebound and (L/H) compression tweaking so I guess it's still in perfect working order, right?
Tire wear pattern says it all or am I missing something here?

 

[Shifu]

Gentler as in less acceleration from the apex or gentler as in opening the throttle less linear from fully closed?
The first is not an option, obviously but I could put a non-linear thingy in my quick-action throttle although I prefer it the way it is now.

Don't worry about it. It was just a joke.

That I didn't know!
So I may assume this pattern wear and ridge deformation (with some slight rebound adjustment still to do) as being perfect then?

The proper wear on the tire looks like rippled sand on the beach across the whole width of tire which pretty much what you got.

I haven't noticed any problems at all with my shock since it got last got serviced and I barely changed its settings apart from minor pre-load adjustments due to losing some weight and some minor rebound and (L/H) compression tweaking so I guess it's still in perfect working order, right?
Tire wear pattern says it all or am I missing something here?

You should not wait with servicing the shocks until you have a problem. On the track bike Ohlins recommends that you should change the oil about every 10 hours of track time. I know yours is not Ohlins but the principle is the same. The oil breaks down and needs to be replaced. Same goes for forks. I am not that rigorous with mine, but I get them serviced on my bikes at the end of every riding season which is about 20 - 25 days on the track.

 

[DanQ]

You should not wait with servicing the shocks until you have a problem. On the track bike Ohlins recommends that you should change the oil about every 10 hours of track time. I know yours is not Ohlins but the principle is the same. The oil breaks down and needs to be replaced. Same goes for forks. I am not that rigorous with mine, but I get them serviced on my bikes at the end of every riding season which is about 20 - 25 days on the track.

:stpd:

I wish that icon said "I agree completely".

I've pulled forks open after one or two track days, and the oil has looked horrendous. Dave M. has a video where he changed oil after a few sessions (maybe just one) and the oil came out looking pretty beat up.

I usually recommend no more than two seasons for street, and about one season (unless racing or rain use) for the track. The consistency you get from good oil and seals is worth the hassle of doing the job.

 

[Shifu]

:stpd:

I wish that icon said "I agree completely".

I've pulled forks open after one or two track days, and the oil has looked horrendous. Dave M. has a video where he changed oil after a few sessions (maybe just one) and the oil came out looking pretty beat up.

I usually recommend no more than two seasons for street, and about one season (unless racing or rain use) for the track. The consistency you get from good oil and seals is worth the hassle of doing the job.

When Dave was at our track last year during the club races, he was pulling what is left of his hair, seeing bikes coming for suspension tuning with shocks that were not touched in years.
Many riders think that if oil can last in the engine for 5000 km then it will last forever in a shock absorber, not realizing what sort of punishment it takes there. :bash:

 

[DanQ]

When Dave was at our track last year during the club races, he was pulling what is left of his hair, seeing bikes coming for suspension tuning with shocks that were not touched in years.
Many riders think that if oil can last in the engine for 5000 km then it will last forever in a shock absorber, not realizing what sort of punishment it takes there. :bash:

I can only imagine :lol Dave can be as impassioned on the topic as he is literate.

But yeah; it's not only a lubricant bath for the moving points inside, but the hydraulic damper going through the valves, shims and needles, plus it ends up carrying anything small enough to make it past the rubber seals. Basically, if you never move the motorcycle or expose it to the elements the oil should be good for years to come. Anything outside of that and you should plan for some form of regular service.

 

[DarkHorse]

Street sweepers. Michelin Super Sport. Front: 31psi, Rear: 30psi Cold.

Can anybody read these? I'd like to know what I need to do prior to track day on the 23rd.

 

[MaRce1o]

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe you guys missed something on that slick tire :sing:

 

[MaRce1o]

Can anybody read these? I'd like to know what I need to do prior to track day on the 23rd.

First trackday?

I wouldn't touch it if it's your first time on track even though rebound is a bit slow

 

[timdingo]

You should not wait with servicing the shocks until you have a problem. On the track bike Ohlins recommends that you should change the oil about every 10 hours of track time. I know yours is not Ohlins but the principle is the same. The oil breaks down and needs to be replaced. Same goes for forks. I am not that rigorous with mine, but I get them serviced on my bikes at the end of every riding season which is about 20 - 25 days on the track.

Right, so I'll lie about when my shock got serviced next time I'm asked

In all seriousness: I know the recommendations but my shock is working perfectly fine and consistent _as far as I can tell_.
I know oil changes color after some usage but that's no indication at all on the effectiveness of the liquid.
That has been discussed to death and frankly: I don't want to start such a discussion, but point taken; service my shock!

I've only mentioned when it got serviced last because of Marcelo's question as maybe he sees something that indicates I'm in need of a service.
If that's so, I'd very much like to hear so from him.
But you said it yourself: nothing indicates a suspension problem

 

[timdingo]

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe you guys missed something on that slick tire :sing:

do tell, please

 

[DanQ]

First trackday?

I wouldn't touch it if it's your first time on track even though rebound is a bit slow

I didn't miss it. Glad you didn't

 

[timdingo]

I didn't miss it. Glad you didn't

Could we just tell the guy who's asked for any insights in the first place, please?
The reason I've asked for help in the first place is that I can't _feel_ anything different, but something odd happened last track day and I'm willing to bet you guys can explain it by looking at the tire, which appears to be so; so please, just tell me :icon_wink:

 

[MaRce1o]

I've only mentioned when it got serviced last because of Marcelo's question as maybe he sees something that indicates I'm in need of a service.
If that's so, I'd very much like to hear so from him.
But you said it yourself: nothing indicates a suspension problem

You sir are correct. Reason why I asked was because of the service. You got one rebound reading correct, but missed the other. Two different grooves, two different readings.