I’ve heard others say if the battery is not up to full par it will not start the bike. Even though it seems to turn over decent. I’d say it’s your battery is weak. Once that battery is put under load the voltage is sagging to far. This is I believe common with the newer models. Weak battery. Get yourself a speedcell and problem will be solved. Most likely.

 

bad battery 100%

i should add im a master mechanic lol

 

Probably the battery, OEM unit is a bit weak. Check out Speedcell for a high-quality replacement. Speedcell - Superbike Unlimited

 

Check out Speedcell for a high-quality replacement. Speedcell - Superbike Unlimited

THIS! ^^^^ Best battery you can buy! :yesnod

 

thanks guys, everyone keeps on telling me the same thing, even the guy from the dealership told me it sounds like the battery and they won't replace it under warranty and if i don't buy a new battery from them they'll charge me a diagnostic fee.

think I'm going to check out my battery options and just buy one myself

recommendations appreciated, thanks.

 

thanks guys, everyone keeps on telling me the same thing, even the guy from the dealership told me it sounds like the battery and they won't replace it under warranty and if i don't buy a new battery from them they'll charge me a diagnostic fee.



think I'm going to check out my battery options and just buy one myself



recommendations appreciated, thanks.

For sure its the battery. Just because it has 12 volts , doesn't mean it has enough amperage. It probably also means it sits too much.


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thanks guys

after reading a bit about batteries and what not, since I've never had to change a battery on any of my bikes, i decided to go with a speedcell battery, i get it wednesday.

btw: i switched the battery from my gixxer to the r1 and it fired right up, to test even further i charged the r1 battery till the charger read full (about 2-3 hours) and then used it and the bike fired right up and ran for about 10-15 minutes and then i wouldn't start again, then i put the gixxer's battery back in the r1 and it started just fine.

 

came in and installed it last night, install was fairly simple with the exception that i had to cut out the left side of the battery tray (expected it) and that i had to drill out the holes on the factory cables to fit the screw that comes with the new battery cables.

tested it last night and it worked fine and i rode to work this morning with no issues. hope i don't have battery issues for a while.

 

hope i don't have battery issues for a while.

Looks good and nope you won't have any battery issues. :fact

 

FYI, I have a large speedcell in a 2015 R1 and I have the same starting problem, so I hate to say it but the speedcell battery will not solve the problem.

My bike just turns over until the cows come home. It turns over strong and fast, but will not start.

I haven't had it in a shop yet. Need to call Yamaha tomorrow.

 

if you still have slow to crank issue after battery replaced.

I have found that squirting 5% gas for 5 seconds via PCV programming does wonders.

this is a multi-faceted issue and a proper battery is only part of the equation, but its a damn good start. pun intended :hammer:

My 09 was always like this even with the fancy SHORAI and I could hear it was working
harder than it needed to get going. I think its because of the Fly-by-wire system, either
way I haven't had starting issues for 5 years now.

as mentioned b4 these batteries going back to the original Xplanker are just not strong
enough for our bikes. 12 Volts means jack if you don't pack required cold cranking amps.

Also, when gas is primed that's just a tiny little bit, even my Raider can use a little spray upon actual starting.

very easy to program the PCV to handle this :yesnod

 

I've been having the same hard starting problem lately also. Battery has been changed twice and now have a Lithium Shorai. The bike seems to start pretty quickly on its first try, but if it stalls before it gets warm, it will not restart.

Cracking the throttle slightly seems to get it started. I wonder if its a cold start enrichment issue?

 

they just take a little more to get going I think.. its probably why we all found out about the bad starter batch to begin with.

since getting into the head n' observing how timing works n' all things line up 'from a dead start' I gotta say i'm not surprised. :no

but then I also notice the same on the Raider, possible its just the big displacement engine in that case but its very similar, so its not just the R1 :dunno

 

Some of the problem is the crossplane crank. A normal 4 has 180° of rotation between each compression, the crossplane has 90° between a couple.

 

No doubt, the problem started in 09.

 

I just bought a 16 R1s last night and it started fine when I checked it out, got some gas, and when I turned it on a few hours ago. I took it down my sloped drive way and into the road, stalled it as I was moving, and I can't get it to start again. The cluster display won't light up, but it's in neutral. The only light that comes on is my ABS light that flickers and I can hear my battery clicking.

Anyone else have this issue?

 

Clicking means bad battery, replace it. These new bikes are insanely touchy with even the slightest change in voltage/amperage due to all the electronics and stuff it uses every bit of juice on that battery, get a new one and I’m sure the problem will be solved.

 

I have a Shorai on my 16’, does pretty well. She cranks well even during cold days. Some have mentioned the speed cell lithium is good, just make sure if you go with a lithium battery to get the proper charger for it as a normal AGM charger won’t work on those. Happy modding.

 

A standard 12V car charger will work provided you install a simple house light dimmer switch which will give you the ability to hand adjust the voltage of the charger to match the charging requirements for the battery. I made one up and used it on my LI battery and works beautiful. I've made at least 3 more for friends. The way you connect it is you connect the dimmer switch in series to one side of one of the AC input wires. Then mount the dimmer switch to the outside of the charger. You can give it a high amp charge or trickle. It controls the DC output voltage by controlling the AC input voltage.

 

What is it about motorcycle batteries, you know, they measure 12.5 or more volts but won't start the bike. What happened is the battery was ruined BUT will still measure a good voltage. The ruined battery in effect was downsized (battery is now too small for the application). There was always a test to determine this downsizing; it's called the load test (very common or well known).

If you don't have or use a carbon pile battery tester, you just use the bike (the starter motor). If engine won't crank long enough for engine to start, or engine won't start it means the battery lost it's amp rating (battery was downsized).

This happens on common auto lead acid batteries too. What's different about sportbike batteries ? It's from either overcharging (with wrong battery charger) or from not using a charger (correct charger) during a long period of not using bike.

AGM batteries require a very LOW charging rate (.75 amps). If you use the wrong charger (1.25 amps or more) you will damage the battery by downsizing it. And, if you buy a very expensive battery (lithium, gel, etc) it will be destroyed quickly by using the wrong charger. I never use a charger that can charge at a rate of more than .75 amps (on a motorcycle battery).

 

That's the main reason why I use a Fluke clamp on amp meter to measure the current going into the battery and a voltmeter to monitor battery voltage if recharge from an exterior source is required on a battery that won't start the bike. The slower the recharge the better for the long term effect of the battery.