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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Just had a look on aj suttons website , thats quite a saving over fowlers prices , think ill be ordering one next week ,

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gone up ÂŁ20 since i ordered mine which came yesterday, still half price more or less to most places. took 3 weeks. are you changing the rotor bearings too?

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gone up ÂŁ20 since i ordered mine which came yesterday, still half price more or less to most places. took 3 weeks. are you changing the rotor bearings too?

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Is it definately the new revised part with the metal sleeve over the magnets ?

Ive spoke to a few people on forums and most have only changed the rotor and had no problems but changing the bearings would make sure everything is new

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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Is it definately the new revised part with the metal sleeve over the magnets ?

Ive spoke to a few people on forums and most have only changed the rotor and had no problems but changing the bearings would make sure everything is new

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yes its the revised part with the sleeve rather than the individual magnets. the old part number is different for the original rotor. im just changing the bearings as it will be apart. for the sake of 40 more for the 2 bearings its not worth the risk leaving the old ones in imo.

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Discussion starter · #24 ·
in the process of doing the job now and the inner rotor bearing felt a bit rough so decided to change it as had a couple just incase.

how the hell do you get this out. used my blind bearing puller with no succsess, tried a little heat (not too much) no joy. wish id left the thing in but now it feels realy bad so has to come out. got my head done in.
 
in the process of doing the job now and the inner rotor bearing felt a bit rough so decided to change it as had a couple just incase.

how the hell do you get this out. used my blind bearing puller with no succsess, tried a little heat (not too much) no joy. wish id left the thing in but now it feels realy bad so has to come out. got my head done in.
How did you get on with the job, had a look on forums and apparently this attatchment is good for getting them out ??
Image


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i replaced a motor thinking i spun a bearing.
on further inspection of the now pulled motor i found that the cover bearing was destroyed.
it sounded just like a crank bearing spinning.
lesson learned, pull the stator before removing the engine :banghead:
 
Discussion starter · #27 · (Edited)
How did you get on with the job, had a look on forums and apparently this attatchment is good for getting them out ??
Image


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cheers @K1ngy hat a pilot bearing puller which kept poping out, in the end i had to grind a drill bit down and push the bit down the centre of the puller adaptor whilst it was in the bearing so it couldnt close up when pulling out. this was after 3 hours of trying. once the drill bit was in the puller the bearing poped out first attempt.:grin2:

this is what i used

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Inner-Bea...-Blind-Hole/282461490709?epid=9011055912&hash=item41c4044e15:g:mi0AAOSwyQtVkkJk

i replaced a motor thinking i spun a bearing.
on further inspection of the now pulled motor i found that the cover bearing was destroyed.
it sounded just like a crank bearing spinning.
lesson learned, pull the stator before removing the engine :banghead:
Jesus!:crying:

i had the 2 bearings on standby before i started the rotor change, the inner felt a bit ropey so i changed it and the outer one in the casing felt ok but i changed it anyway.
 
My Yamaha Fz8N 2012 is presenting the same issue on the rotor. I heard about a Yamaha warranty for this specific piece; does anyone have that document expedited by Yamaha talking about the failure and the corrective action?
You won't find any such document because admitting that the rotor was poorly designed might expose them to liability from angry customers.

The corrective action is to
1. Remove the old rotor - This includes any pieces of the old rotor that will have made its way into the oil pan. This means that you will have to drop your oil pan which requires partial disassembly of the exhaust and purchasing of 1 (or 2) oil pan gaskets to replace the old one that typically tears when the oil pan is removed. I found plastic bits and magnet shavings in my oil pan, so it is highly recommended that you take this step (even though it is time consuming).

2. Install the redesigned rotor - It is best to install the new rotor while the oil pan is off the bike because some of the parts can slip into the pan as you are trying to fit the new rotor on. When the pan off these parts just fall right onto the ground. If the pan is on then you get to drop the pan all over again. Please note: You must remove all of the oil in the bike before you drop the oil pan
 
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