by dropping teeth in the rear you're not gonna get more top end. maybe a 1-2 mph, but i doubt it as the 09 r1 is already down on power compared to other 1000cc bikes. When you're going for top speed over 185mph it's a hp game to beat the wind resistance. Yes you need the gearing for it, but also the hp. If you want hp to get more top speed best to ditch that slipon and get a full system with engine work or better yet a turbo or nitrous. When talking high hp though and top speed you have the wrong bike for it to be honest. Your bike is designed to rip up the corners and still be damn fast on the straights, but it's designed to do both. It can be made to do 200mph or faster, but you'll end up spending a lot more money then if you had a bike that is better suited for it. hp/top speed pulls are nothing but a money game.

 

It is "NOT POSSIBLE" to have both improved acceleration and more top speed with just a gearing change. Period. It's one or the other. That's like saying I want to eat all I want and still lose weight. There's no tapeworm for a motorcycle. :hammer::hammer::hammer:

 

Awesome analogy, LOL

OP: I went down 1 in the front and 2 up in the back and it feels like a different bike, so much fun!!!! I don't care if I cut 10-20 MPH off the top end. I very rarely go over 150 any way.

 

+1 burnZ

You're moving your "powerband" around basically when you do gearing. You can't move it both ways.

If you want acceleration and top speed you may want to look at a busa, zx14, even the new bmw, etc. The r1 isn't meant to be top dog for power or top speed. It's meant to do what rossi/spies do on their Yami's

 

Go -1+2, I topped out at a GPS indicated 174... Thats plenty fast enough.

 

^^ Amen to that

 

Or you can just get the 80% wot throttle restriction cuz that's not helping you any...just a thought :dunno

 

ok guys one for the books my 09 r1 is not that slow i was going home about a weekago around 930pm we have a nice hwy on the way home 1 light before the hwy i pulled next to a cbr 1000 ok you know we going to run im not the best of the start but he got the shot on me and 2nd gear im on him hit 3rd and i was about 2 cars on him he was falling behind quick was that the bikes or he had no balls

 

Alright for the record...

YES you can gain both top end and acceleration...im not a retard im a mechanical engineer for crying out loud.

Ill put it this way

The 2001 z06 I had had a lower top speed than a regular corvette while having more horsepower because the z06 ran out of gear in 5th and couldnt pull 6th, while the regular c5 could pull more speed in 5th due to a smaller gear ratio. If I changed out the gearing in the z06 to a taller gear (more acceleration) it would allow the car to make 6th gear in essence a lower more accelerating gear and allow the car to top out at a higher speed.

A good model would be a mountain bike...

trying climbing a hil in 1st and 21st gear, chances are if the incline is steep enough and your not lance armstrong, your going to be able to carry a higher speed with the lower gear...

This is the same idea as wind resistance at 183 mph indicated or w/e. If i were to have more acceleration I would be able to use more of 6th gear.

Now that I have proved my theory or whatever you would like to call it, I think ill make my post clearer...

Im looking to USE MORE OF MY GEARING. I will never use the last 2k of 6th gear unles i had a strong wind behind me and a downhill area. I will try the -1 +2 and see how that treats me.

I didnt buy a busa or a zx14 because i live for the twisties and dragging a knee. But doing some street racing is always fun too. Thats why i asked. I didnt ask "hey i only wanna go fast what should i sell my bike and buy?"

Thanks

 

dude your comparison sucks.

first off if your changing the final gear ratio its one way or the other. If you make it taller you will automatically sacrifice top end, period. The bike will turn higher revs but get there faster, the higher revs to do the same speed however will limit its ability to actually pull a higher speed when it gets there.

Yes on a mountain bike you will go faster up hill in a lower gear, but you still have a slower max speed. This proves nothing. you could never pedal fast enough, or have the strength too go as fast as you could in the higher gear.

In your z06 comparison, if you change differant gearing inside the transmission you could effectively accelerate faster in 1st-4th gear, and allow for a higher gear in 5th and sixth to gain top speed. but no matter how you put it, if you put a taller gear in sixth you gain acceleration and loose top end and vice versa. No degree can argue this otherwise, unless you are adding hp to the equation with a change in gear. But even then the gear change would affect what just he hp addition would net. and are you speaking about an automatic transmission, and its inability to shift up to sixth gear because top end is not changed simply because the car will not go to the next gear. you are saying that since the gear is so tall it doesnt reach the required revs to tell the trans to shift up, since the gear does not allow it to. so what you are saying is that it has the required horsepower to do so, so if you made the gear shorter is would increase its top end. doing that would increase the time it takes to get through the gear, and this would decrease acceleration.

 

Again, I'd get rid of the throttle restriction. In gears 4-6 @ WOT the ecu restricts the throttle bodies to only 80% open. Thats def some power for you up top where it counts for your runs. And what rpm are you at wen you see 183 indicated?

 

full system and ECUnleashed would be a start

 

Actualy he does have a point. So he is correct. I just don't think most people will grasp what he is trying to explain.

The ECUnleashed is one option nut I've had my eye on another one. The guy reflashes the stock ecu to essentially a yec ecu. Same options and everything except you hve the option of having the "street version" that retains the headlights, fan control, speedo..ect..or the standard race version. I looked around and a few of the r6 guys used it and said it worked great. But I'm still deciding myself

 

got a link? how much? whats the idle like on the street version?

 

Im in the process of 1 tooth down on the front stock teeth on back 520 conversion kit. Probably will go up 1 or 2 in back,already had a brand new black vortex sprocket so im rolling with it for the moment!

 

Is is pretty much all of my contact with him other than a few pm's. For some
reason the few times he posted on here people seemed to just flame him so he doesn't really post here anymore

**********

Yamaha-Racingparts out of ebay.com
cheers



Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 09:55:40 -0700
From: itmepj@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: YEC ECU
To: yamaha-motocorse@hotmail.it

Where are you base out of/where are you located? And what is the name of the business anyway?



On Jun 9, 2010, at 7:26 AM, mauro casini <yamaha-motocorse@hotmail.it> wrote:

I don't have any website, turnaround time is 4 weeks and cost at the moment is 549$ if you want the datalink is 99$ more.*
Cheers

Yamaha-Motocorse*



Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 19:41:16 -0700
From: itmepj@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: YEC ECU
To: yamaha-motocorse@hotmail.it

It's a 2009 r1. Do you guys have a web site or anything yet? Where are you guys based out of? And has your cost come down any? I believe there are a few others that reflash these now and wanted to kno how competitive your prices were. Thanks much!



On Jun 8, 2010, at 5:03 PM, mauro casini <yamaha-motocorse@hotmail.it> wrote:


Yes...what kind of bike we are talking about??? Year and model?
We have R6 2006 2010 in stock
R1 only 04-06, all others on trade in base only!
BR
Yamaha-Motocorse




Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 12:11:49 -0700
From: itmepj@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: YEC ECU
To: yamaha-motocorse@hotmail.it

Do you guys still offer this service?



On Oct 23, 2009, at 2:35 PM, yamaha motocorse <yamaha-motocorse@hotmail.it> wrote:

No problem Mate....yes the difference is just the trade in ....which doesn't apply to R1 09!
Quickshifter can be used any sensor from any manufactor....I suggest the CORDONA which can be used both in push or pull !
The sensor is not included...you can use quickshifter also with a push button (even the horn one) as they do in Australian Supersport
Il giorno 23/ott/09, alle ore 14:11, PJ Klemens ha scritto:

ok so with this there would no reason to have to have a pcv correct? how would one go about installing a quickshifter? the price you listed on the forum was $679 (american?) and $828, is the only difference the trade in ? sorry for all the questions but i just like to kno what im looking at getting

From:*yamaha motocorse <yamaha-motocorse@hotmail.it>
To:*itmepj@yahoo.com
Cc:*yamaha motocorse <yamaha-motocorse@hotmail.it>
Sent:*Thu, October 22, 2009 10:28:46 PM
Subject:*YEC ECU

Ciao,
You will not have any difference from YEC ECU reflashed and original YEC. Believe it or not original OEM is capable of being firmware upgrade to YEC ECU. Now the difference is the loom...YEC loom is specific for racing and doing so it doesn't have any chance of running headlight, or RADIATOR fans. Yec ECu is NOT capable of showing Speed on the cluster (but shows WATER TEMP instead of speed)...after a long trial we are capable of providing such info ONLY at the time of reflashing, once is done as a street one (displaying speed instead of TEMPERATURE) will display such info unless we reflash it once again.

Now...I need to know what bike you are interested in....if is an R1 2009 I can just reflash yours as it is impossible at this time to find some good used ECU at reasonable cost.
If you reflash with YEC (street option), the bike will be exactly the same as an OEM but engine will be deliver full power IN ALL RANGES, plus, connecting the programming cable, you'll be able to adjust all info....I attach the info about KIT YEC for R1 2007 2008 (same considerations apply to R6 and R1 09) Slight different is the loom connection, since you'll use the original loom.....mods are very easy and work can be done within 15 mins by any one!
Detail info will be provided!
you can dowload the manual here....*

http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/2486741/08_YMS_EN.pdf

Ciao
Mauro





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Holy crap. 800 bucks. pretty pricey compared the ecunleashed. Think ill just save my money for ecu unleashed a ypipe and PCV

 

Since when are R1s down in power?

 

My Opinion,,,,,ECUnleashed is a MUST!!!! Bike will PULLLLLLL Through 11500 to red line.
Full Exhaust is also a must. Get rid of those slip-ons---let the bike BREATH!!!!!
I only went -1 in the front, kept stock in the rear---I can feel the difference in Acceleration. I dont want to lose Top speed also, but it depends on where your runnin. Ya need some nice long straits to get up to 200+

 

Lol ur not very good at skimming for facts are ya. It's only 550 now. And with his flash there's no reason for a pcv. So it's pretty much the same price as ECUnleashed with out the need to spend a couple hundred more on another way to tune it liek the pcv.

Again king, I don't think you are grasping at what he's saying. He's saying the motor is running out of power to pull all the way through the gear. If you can add a bit more gear to bring it into the powerband better it will be able go pull through the whole gear

if wind resistance overcomes hp and keeps it from hitting redline in a specific gear...an extra little bit can likely net a higher speed

put a toddler on that mountain bike he was speaking of in 21st gear. He's not gonna move that thing faster than a turtles pace. Now put him on his little bmx whatever and I'm sure he'll go faster and with more acceleration at that. The toddler doesn't have the power to pedal the mountain bike X rpm to achieve X mph but was able to do so on his bmx.

Make sense yet?

 

yea thats what i said at the end of the last post. my point is not to disprove the theory of his claim, but the validity of how it relates to the bike.

all im saying is he is only running out of steam since he doesnt have the flash yet. i am also not taking into account anything like wind, or gentle incline in travel.

Again i dont field test everybike to max speed, so not pretending to be an expert. But most all of them dont have much gear left when they get to max speed. I havent even tried to max out my own r1, and i have the reflash now. I would assume he is seeing alot more rev's left on his, so he is just not aware of the 80 percent restriction.

believe me man, i totally get the point as my argument was only to say that if the engine is working till peak revs then the gear swap will net one way or the other.

if the bike does 176 stock and only chugs to 12,200, then yes its possible -1 in back might allow you to increase acceleration and hit lets say 180mph at 13,500. this would happen because the gearing being taller would make it easier for the 146hp to push the bike to a higher rpm.

if the bike tops at 13,500 however then once you hit that point your only going one way or the other without more hp, or improved aero less weight etc.

now with the r1, i am just guessing that without the reflash the bike just doesnt have enough hp after peak output for any sprocket change to work. the reflash only gives you 1-2 peak, but 10+ after peak till redline. By not having that 10 hp due to restriction i would imagine the gearing needed to pull all the way till redline would net a max speed less than 176 anyway. Does that make sense? essentially -1 up front might bring you to redline in 6th gear but its going to top out at 173 (just random numbers).

If he had the bike untapped like the euro model, then the bike would pull to redline (or very close) stock, and any gear change will automatically decrease top speed achievable.

i didnt really read the context of his post at first, but i more than understand his point. at the same time do you really consider a +1 in the rear a real improvement in either direction. I ask since ive read a few guys stating their gps speeds around 173 with a -1 up front. meaning for him to improve both acceleration and top end he has 1 maybe two teeth in the rear. thats roughly .001-.01 in the 1/4, and maybe 2-4 mph. if that is the changes sought after then yes i am totally off here, you can absolutely change both acceleration and top end together with a sprocket change.

i would assume the higher the hp to play with, or the greater off the gearing stock, the much more drastic the possibility of what he mentioned though.

 

the 600's run out of pull and that's why some gain top speed by regearing it, but it's very very minimal. With a 1000cc bike i've never seen one gain top speed. you will lose top speed by regearing it...just the way it works with a 1000cc bike. you can't have it both ways.

 

thanks for putting what i was trying to say into two sentences, what took me 4 large posts lol.

 

since when are r1s down in power?

 

compared to the bmw 1000, the busa, the 08 cbr 1000, etc they are down on power and even those bikes require lots more hp to gain top speed. The wind resistance is absolutely insane at upper speeds and our bikes are nowhere near aerodynamic. it takes very little hp to go from 160 to 170 to speed, but to go from 200 to 210 it much much more. It's the law of physics

 

Glad we are all on the same page now...im glad i got my point across but you guys might be right it might not be possible on the bike.

Im going to look into the reflash for the ecu.

 

aahh gotcha king :thumbup

 

Changing the gearing of your bike will change the travel of your bike. going -1, +2 is the way to go. it will make you travel faster to the speed you want. it wont give you HP but it will give you torque. like the other said R1 09 is best for cornering not straight. it has the lowest hp compare to all 1000cc. bikes.

 

ahh il just stop

 

Confused with sprockets

After ordering sprockets from driven, to attempt a 520 conversion they have sent me the wrong sprockets and i am wondering if these sprockets have any advantage to them at all and what you all think? stock sprocket's for my 08 r1 are 17/45 sprockets sent are 15/43 any input would be greatly appreciated!

 

After ordering sprockets from driven, to attempt a 520 conversion they have sent me the wrong sprockets and i am wondering if these sprockets have any advantage to them at all and what you all think? stock sprocket's for my 08 r1 are 17/45 sprockets sent are 15/43 any input would be greatly appreciated!

Off the top of my head that's equivalent to keeping the rear sprocket the same and going down about 1.25 teeth at the front. So you're gearing down a bit more than just one tooth. Divide the front sprocket into the back sprocket 17:45 and you can see that the ration is close to 3 : 1. So 2 teeth on the back is roughly equivalent to two 3rds of a tooth on the front. You would never want to just go down 2 on the front as 15:45 is an even division and the chain will wear quickly.
With 15:43 you also lose a lttle moving mass as the chain can be a bit shorter.

 

2010, 2011, 2013 and today......keeping Up-To-Date. lol