Is it cutting the power when you try to shift?

 

like I said the quickshifter/ lever feel really stiff, I have to really put some force on it and even then sometimes it feels like its just hitting a wall and it won't shift or anything..... No it doesn't even kill power.... I got it to work yesterday but the shift lever gets stiffer the more quickshifts I do....

I'm taking the bike in on sunday to see what's wrong, I will keep you posted

 

I understand. I wasn't sure if it was cutting power AND it was really difficult or what.

Since it's not cutting the power, I'd guess it's the QS sensor.


Sent from my well-trained carrier pigeon named Wallace

 

Have you done any work where you could have forgotten to plug it back in? Can you see any cuts in the wires visible? Is it turned off for some reason on accident in your settings? After checking all that take it to the dealer

 

Mine did the same thing. The bolt attaching the Hines joint could have been over tightened not allowing the joint to move freely, binding up essentially. Check to see if the ball moves freely in the Hines joint. If it does not, that could be the issue.

 

My quickshifter just took a shit on me the other day. It started acting up on me after I washed my bike with a water hose, but not sure its related. At first the quickshift became really abrupt, with a little bit of delay, and after-shift throttle was not as smooth as when I first bought it, like it hesitated then corrected itself.

Then one day I went to do a quick takeoff, and went to shift almost at redline in 1st gear, and my shifter just did a dead stop and it made me miss a shift and hit my rev limiter for a split second. I was forced to manually shift. It really caught me off guard and spooked me for a minute.

That same day I found I could only use the quickshift at low speeds. But now, I can't use it at any speed. It's dead....

I disconnected the shift switch from the harness and tested with an Ohm meter, but got nothing. Not sure these are just basic switches, and if that is a valid test. I tired swithing QS modes, and disabling it and enabling it, still nothing...

...back to the dealer I go again... 1 trip for recall, another trip for a recall disaster (see my topics), another trip because of a mistake they made fixing my recall disaster fix, and now another trip to get my quickshift replaced... I feel like I bought a used bike.

 

What came of this?

 

The only good news is the QS is under $200. Still expensive but not like aftermarket ones.

 

Waterless wash.

 

I've washed my bike with a hose and bucket every week it has been ridden. and I've also ridden it in some seriously heavy rain. no issues so far

 

I said so far. you better not have jinxed me damn you

 

:lol

 

Riding in the rain is one thing…blasting a bike with a hose is another.

Take wheel bearing and a water hose for example. People have ruined wheel bearings. I know a guy who's rear wheel locked up on him on a highway due to wheel bearing failure. He new it was due to repeated wash and since then does not wash his bike with a hose anymore.

In the rain, the front, the header, radiator, under tail all take the majority of the wet.

 

Well i dont power wash it. Just a rinse with the nozzle on a shower setting. I have a selectable style nozzle.
hand wash, rinse again. Mainly staying on the fairings and tank. Rims i hit where the tire part is.

I also inspect the wheel bearings when i change my tires. Which is about 2 times a summer. You can re-grease a wheel bearing. You need to use a pick to remove the seal. My old bike had over 50k. Stock wheel and head bearings still. And clutch believe it or not.

 

Just wanted to update on my situation...

I took my bike to the dealership, told them the quick shift wasn't working and I tested the switch and it must be bad. However, they had the bike for an entire week before calling me and telling me that Yamaha didn't give them any way for them to diagnose the problem. No error codes showed, and no recommended procedures from Yamaha. So they had to contact Yamaha and get some help, and I guess Yamaha told them to do some checks which they did and they all passed. They could have just used an Ohm meter like I did....

Their last resort was to just take a working switch off a new bike they have on the floor and test it on my bike. So they did that, and it worked. So then they said they needed to order a new switch (covered under my YES warranty), which for some reason took an entire week to arrive.

They had my bike for 2 weeks just to replace what is basically a button. So yeah, these quickshift switches are crap. Still have no answers as to why it failed.

 

Just wanted to update on my situation...

They could have just used an Ohm meter like I did....

Can you describe how you tested it? I'm guessing it gave the same resistance with the switch both open and closed?



Sent via my well-trained carrier pigeon named Wallace

 

clearly the solution to this is to buy a translogic =D

 

Just read through this post. My quick shifter went bad in 2 months of me getting the bike. Brought it to he dealer on a Friday and had it back by that Tuesday. I would've gotten it back the next day but they said they needed to order the new shifter from Yamaha because they took one off of a floor model M they had to test on my bike and couldn't give me that one haha. Kind of surprised it took them over a week to diagnose it let alone a week to get the part.


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I've started to experience some problems with the QS on my 2015 R1. I found that sometimes (and it appears to be intermittent) that it won't shift up, that it doesn't cut power, it isn't related to particular speeds or the gear the bike is in (sometimes it won't shift a low speed under minimal load, sometimes it won't shift under hard acceleration at higher speeds).

I checked the QS connections and these seem fine, so after reading this thread I believe I have a dodgy QSS. My question is has anyone worked out a way that the QSS can be tested, from reading this thread it doesn't look as though there has, but I'm hoping someone has worked something out in the meantime.

Update:
My QS has stopped working, bringing it to the dealer next week to get it sorted, hopefully it is just the QSS and its a simple swap out.

 

Not to rejuvenate an old post but wanted to add info that may help in the future. After installed the OEM QS on my 16 R1s it wouldn't initialize. After checking continuity on the up and downshift it was clear it was faulty. I took the switch out of the housing and hooked it up with the assumption it was wired backwards and used the opposite technique to initialize (no pressure on switch then press the switch button and initialize which worked). It's clear it was manufactured with a faulty switch.