It’s not common for that issue after a tip. I think you have something loose. I laid mine down on the right side at 85mph, and I’ve also laid it down at 65 and when it hit the dirt it flipped. Both times when I’ve put it back together (mostly cosmetics) it’s been as strong as ever. I’ve seen these bikes in some serious crashes, and never a misfire after, including my own.
I think you’ve got something specific going on, probably not plugs. Maybe something came loose in the tank sending fuel? How hard was the fall down before the slide?

 

Honestly it wasn't that hard. I just felt the bike throw me down when I barely touched the curbing at 75mph. In my head I still don't understand exactly why I fell, I've taken that corner a hundred times way faster on my s1000rr on dot tires. Maybe the slicks were too cold, idk. But now I'm blessed with not only a "freak" caused accident but with some weird afterword symptoms...... im going to throw new plugs in it because its already basically down to them and ill check the coil. I would also like to check valve timing once I find out how. Then I will take a video and post it up.
Yea i heard these bikes can take a beating and still be fine for the most part. But honestly I feel like I've been having nothing but gremlins with this thing.......

 

Timing is easy to check, just take off the timing cover. A misfire from timing would be pretty obvious. I think maybe something is loose.

 

I'm hoping its something like a coil plug fell off because its not intermittent, its constant. My worse fear is jumped timing=bent valves....
Thanks for the quick response Gearhead!!

 

It may just be a fouled plug. On its side oil could have pooled where some may have got somewhere it usually doesn’t.

 

its extremely hard for it to jump timing i would say damn near impossible. the cam chain tensioner is oil pressure fed and then has a cam locking system inside to keep it from retracting when the oil is low pressure. i can barely retract the 15+ cct's on the bench. the bike being on its side its likely plugs got fouled or wiring came loose. when the bikes cold start it and feel the headers and see which one isn't warming up or is warming up slower. its easier with a laser temp gun. once you find out which ones cold swap coils and see if it moves cylinders. the timing is also a bitch to check on this year you have to drain the rad and remove it to get the valve cover out the front as it doesn't come out the top like every bike ever made. once you do that its near impossible to see the timing marks because of the right side frame being in the way. if the cam had jumped it would have jumped on all cylinders and you wouldn't have only one misfiring.

 

Thanks for all the responses thus far!
So I got the plugs out, they look acceptable and not noticeably fouled.
Coils are all within book spec for resistance.
I scoped the cylinders and there is no evidence that I can see of valve contact, tho the pistons are slightly wet and dirty.
I'm sorry I forgot to mention the CCT is a Graves manual CCT, not OEM hydraulic.
I pulled the right side cowling anticipating checking the valve timing but as stated, its going to be a project. I guess this is where I draw the line and be happy with my results and put it back together with NEW plugs gapped correctly, and hope for the best.
I will also try the laser thermometer on the runners. I wanted to sync the throttle bodies but I dont have access to a carbSync gauge set to do that now, so that will have to wait.
Any other thoughts/suggestions?

 

slightly off topic but if your running the graves fine thread tensioner run it slightly on the loose side. i have taken apart several motors where running their spec pulls down on the camshaft and rubs it into the bearing surface of the head. there's also a few guys on here who i have talked to about it that had it happen.

be sure while you are in there to check the t\wiring on the plugs, i have seen guys pull on the wires to take off an ignition coil plug for example and actually pull the pin out a bit and not be able to tell so it was misfiring until i found it. start with the temps and that will at least give you a place to start looking.

 

A quick video last night after I swapped coils and new plugs.

It seems after running it again and checking the heat of each runner, it seems cylinders 1 and 2 are running very close to the same heat about 10-20* difference and cylinder 3 is about 50* cooler than those and clinder 4 is about 1/2 the temperature. Do im not sure if that means cylinder 3 is also missing but not at constant as 4.
I swapped coils between cylinders 1&4 to see if the misfire follows, but it did not.
I'm thinking of doing a compression test or leakdown test to put my mind at ease that there is nothing wrong Mechanically, or cut to the chase and see what my options are if there is.

 

a compression test never hurts to do. if it isn't the coil then possibly fuel but that would be unlikely i feel unless maybe something came loose and is clogging injectors? maybe losing pressure to the right side of the rail but that would be the first time i have seen that. i think a guy had an issue like this where it eases up being a pickup coil after an accident but i think his bike was worse then yours. maybe try cranking with the plug out to see if the spark is consistent when trying to start it or if its visibly dropping out on you. what all got damaged in the crash are your handlebars ok? kill switch all good?

 

I did a compression test. The compression across the board is 155 with a dead cold motor.
The handle bar on the right side is bent. I bought a new one but have not installed it yet. I dont see any issues with the kill switch. Why do you ask? Are you aware of something I should be looking for?

 

no I'm just asking. i have heard guys have issues from damaging it and then random misfires but yours seems consistent on 4. you could try swapping injectors for shits and giggles but i don't think that it. see if you can visibly see spark drop out to if it seems to be there reliably. if it drops then we could move to a pickup or electrical. if its there then probably start looking for vacuum leaks, make sure throttle bodies seated all the way down, fuel pressure.

 

Leak down test also showed things are good. Some slight leakage past the rings but I can't tell what percentage because HF Gauges are garbage, i only wanted to listen for air coming out of the intake or exhaust anyway, not looking for a percentage reading. I hooked all 4 coils up with spark plugs in them and grounded them out across the aluminum cross brace and it seems they are all sparking consistently.
I'm going to see if I can swap the injectors with cylinder 1 and see if the misfire changes.
I did notice that the throttle body plates(butterflies) have some residue on them like a gummy ethanol that is a brown tarnish color. So i will have to seafoam this thing when I get it running back to normal.
Also, I ordered a throttle body synchronization tool. Not sure how far out of wack they could have gotten from a crash but I figure as I'm at it I'm sure they could use some adjustment.

 

It looks like I getting closer. I swapped the injectors (cylinders 1&4) and the bike fired up and ran normal. So if it was an injector the misfire should of followed the change, but it disappeared all together, weird.
I had to see what changed so I decided to swap the injectors back, the misfire came back, so swapped the injectors again and this time the misfire didn't disappear. So at this point, i'm pretty sure it must be the wires. Those are the only other things that are being touched when performing the injector swap.
I decided to live diagnose with the engine running by unplugging the injectors and plugging them in 1 by 1, trying to see what effects it would have on the idle. It seems unplugging injector 4 would and wouldn't trigger Diag Code 39(injector 4 short or open circuit condition). But the other injectors would trigger their respective code every time.
Well I'm not sure what is going on at this point because I was able to get the bike to run in Mode D normal. But once I switch to mode B cylinder 4 misfires, ill switch it back to mode D and it continues to misfire. I will let the bike cool down a bit then restart in Mode D and its running fine again.
At this point, is it the software causing a misfire or is it electrical?
I'm glad I am focusing it to an electrical fuel injection problem and not an internal engine problem. But I still need to get to the bottom of this because the bike didn't have any of these issues prior to the crash.

 

I've decided to chase down the wires for injector #4 and do a continuity test on them. Both the orange w/black tracer and the red w/blue tracer and dark Green dots lead back to the smaller plug on the ECU. Continuity seems good with reading of resistance anywhere from 0.0ohms to 1.0ohms, which I chock up to my cheap tester and not a perfect connection at the ECU plug. I could take a paperclip or similar to probe the plug with to see if i get a better connection. But I moved the injector wire around to see if i could disrupt the connection while I was testing, but no luck. Seems to be a solid connection.
I'm kind of left thinking it has to be in the computer at this point. I think I'm going to change the flash to a basic unrestricted map and see if it changes anything. Maybe the Tip Over sensor altered the map in some way? From what I have checked, it seems nothing physical has changed so why is this happening?

 

When you tested the connectors, did you test with the bike running to see if the injector was cutting while it was misfiring? You could prop the tank up and back probe the injectors. You could also backprobe the wires on the ecu to test and see if something is looks. How’s the ground look? It’s directly under the tank. It could be corroded from a fuel spill on it, try taking it off and cleaning it?

 

I Checked the ground under the tank and it looks very clean, no corrosion.
No I didn't back probe the connectors. I see they have a rubber seal on them that keeps out debris. I will have to get some safety wire to probe the back of the connector and try that.
What should I probe them against? The ground or eachother?
I will have to check that next.
Thanks again!

 

I Checked the ground under the tank and it looks very clean, no corrosion.
No I didn't back probe the connectors. I see they have a rubber seal on them that keeps out debris. I will have to get some safety wire to probe the back of the connector and try that.
What should I probe them against? The ground or eachother?
I will have to check that next.
Thanks again!

Probe from back of ecu inlet connection to actual injector. That way you’re testing through the ecu all the way to injector, so you can make sure a wire isn’t loose when it’s all plugged in together.
It doesn’t do any good to test continuity of the harness if you cannot confirm that once it is plugged into the ECU it still has continuity.

 

Thanks Gear.
I'll try that, I'll let you know what I find!

 

I have to give a shoutout to SuperbikeUnlimited for the advice on harness testing. I was removing clips and testing harness unplugged, but it wasn’t until Freddy advised me to test by back-probing and connected that I found a lose connector on my rear speed sensor causing an error code

 

sorry i didn't get notified here about the new posts. I'm glad you're getting closer. i don't think you supposed to show any resistance across the wires so it would make sense that its showing a low number or open. you can try warming the injector and then testing the ohms on it hot vs cold to see if it has a break internally, uncommon on injectors but common on things like coils. have you ever had the eco plug unlocked like to install a bike side harness for example? could those pins be not quite seated? you can also put your multimeter to the beep setting and make sure the wires have continuity at each end and then check for continuity between the different wires and to ground to see if they are shorted somewhere.

 

i mention these odd ball things because i am assuming you can tell the injector plugs aren't loose but if it was me thats where i would be looking extra hard and making sure the pins are making good contact inside and they aren't just a bit loose on the pins.

 

Thanks for all the help so far!
I've been busy getting track time in with the s1000rr but I was able to get some more time to play around with the problem child. I got my hands on a nice multimeter to take it out of the equation, and i started probing and recording measurements. I probed all the injector plugs to ground through the ECU and they all read 26.93ohms, so no outlier there. I then had to use 2 sewing needles to insert in the back of injector #4 plug. The ohms read about 1ohm higher with everything hooked up (multimeter to alligator clips that are hooked onto sewing needles that are stuck in the back of the plug). I ran the bike and the refresh rate on the multimeter couldn't catch up to the rpm, but from what I did notice, the readings changed when I switched modes it seemed. I want to back probe the other injectors for comparison later on this weekend.
I need to figure out a way to hook a test light up or a trigger light to see if the injector is not activating consistently. But for now I was able to get some time in so I wanted to keep this post alive in the meantime.

 

UPDATE:
Well, I finally might be on to something here.
I decided to re-flash the ECU (back to a stock map then back to the current map) without starting the engine in-between flashes, hoping this would solve my mystery of a misfire. Well it didn't. But as I was switching between modes and listening to the engine come onto a misfire, I noticed a difference between modes is the LCS option is enabled in modes A&B but not enabled in modes C&D. I was noticing that while listening to the misfire and thought, "huh, kind of sounds like its on a launch control setting...." So I decided to just try and disable the LCS in B mode and give it a shot.
Much to my surprise, it DIDN'T misfire in B mode anymore!!! So like any trained mathematician, I decided to check the variable (LCS) by Enabling LCS in D mode (control mode) and now it has the misfire! So it seems that the LCS setting has something to do with this problem. I decided to try holding the clutch in when switching to a mode with LCS and it still misfired, so that didn't change anything.

I'm left with this, LCS setting on the dash has some correlation with the misfire, I'm just not sure how. I'm first trying to think what is related to the LCS for functionality, and what the crash could have disturbed in those relations.

I now have to find out what sensors or switches are related and to start looking there with a fine tooth comb......
Please, thoughts or suggestions..

 

It's just rpm based. You activate it at a stop then it limits the rpm to I think either 10k or 8k so you hold it pinned on the throttle and it keeps the rpm limited till you get going a certain speed then disengaged.

 

I was told by a guy at the track to check the Wheel speed sensors and sensor rings. So that is another thing I'm going to check. Hopefully I can get this fixed sooner than later.....

 

I just got done flashing back and forth between my current map and the Graves full exhaust map. I noticed a couple different things.
The Graves full exhaust map DOESN'T have a misfire in any of the modes with or with out LCS enabled. And upon completion of flashing this map, there is NO Diag code displayed.
My current map still has the misfire when enabling the LCS, but also I noticed that there is a Diag code 50 (faulty ECU memory) displayed upon completion of flashing. When I finish flashing I cycle the ignition OFF then back ON and the code is no longer there.
In the Diagnostic mode of the dash, it does have Code 50 stored.
I'm not sure if I never noticed this code 50 before and it always appeared or could this file somehow be trying to use something that got damaged in the crash, maybe even the ECU itself?

 

The Graves map is good? Why not just run the Graves map

 

The bike came with the Race Team Subscription package which unlocks a lot more than what the Graves Base map offers, plus the bike is dyno tuned on a more open map which I wouldn't be able to import to the graves map.
It looks like with some help, I've boiled it down to the Race Team Module in the software. When its enabled, the misfire occurs when LCS is active. But with RTM disabled, LCS doesn't cause a misfire.
I'm getting closer and will continue to document my progress for the next guy.
I'm pretty convinced that something hardware related was damaged even if it was the Ecu itself, because there is a cause and effect situation going on here. Right now I see the Software is effected but I need to find out what hardware is causing it.