Up close

 

Step 4... Connect the 2 hoses together (the ones you just disconnected).

 

Why doesn't the edit mode allow you to attach photos??? anyways heres the hoses.

 

This is what I used... (left over R6 parts from my previous bike)... any connection will do just be warned the 2 hoses are different sizes :-(.

 

Installed.

 

Ok now you'll need to work to get this hose down inbetween the frame and the carbs but it is possible (try not to scratch the hell out of your paint here).

 

Now your next goal is to remove the AIS solenoid and either replace it with a "T" pipe plumbing or make a block off plate... to do this, this is what I did... Note other may have easier ways.

Step 6... Remove ECU and plate.

Step 7... remove plate at bottom of airbox (note theres a clip in the middle but mines already plugged from a later step). Theres a second clip that holds the throttle cables up from undernieth... these are circled... the plate should simply pull up

 

Step 8... plug the hole where the AIS solenoid attached to this plate... I used a simple button blug from an automotive store

 

I used a high temp silicon to seal it in from the underside also

 

Step 9... remove the heat shield... there are 2 button pins underneith the side panels holding it in... Note you do not need to remove the panels just take off the top row of bolts and then pull back a little as seen in these pics.


Left side

 

Right

 

Now pull your heat sheild back so you can get at the AIS solenoid.

Ok this is where my photos get bad because I don't want to rip anymore of the stuff off for this how to...

You can simply replace the solenoid with a block off plate from the T pipe like I did. (i used aluminum from an old hard drive LOL)...

Or you can go buy a T pipe and put it in.

I have circled whats left of mine in the picture... you can see a hint of the block off plate on the top... Also removing this solenoid will NOT cause an engine light... so just disconnect it.

 

Re-assemble and your done... i'll post the pic of the valve removed in an hour or so.

 

great how-to and pics.
for those of you who do this make sure you remove the ais solenoid as decribed above so you don't dead head the crankcase.
Let us know if the bike runs or sounds different.

 

Sounds the same as blocking off the ais (smog plates etc). You will have to clean the reed valves every so often though... I think one person recommended 4000 miles or so... i'll be ripping mine down in the winter and showing what they look like after 2000 kms... when I did strip this down there was a very small amout of oil trapped in the joiner. It has a few extra ponies at the top end now... actually the 2nd dyno run (roll on) is always a few horse power higher throughout the entire curve, I assume this is because the first run built up a vacume in the crank, or it may just be coincidents. Now it looks like the oil hose possibly kinks from time to time so I think over winter i'm going to run strong high temp oil hose inbetween the two points to stop this. All in all I believe this works great.

 

Heres the solenoid after removal... this is the BARE minimum parts you should have left over after doing this. Make sure you remove this and or the t pipe and replace it.

 

My next project will be to weld in a small (3/8") tube into the exhaust in the midpipe at a 60 dgree (or so) angle. Then pipe that to the breather hose. This should provide constant vacuum that increases with load, and nothing to clean.

 

Nice but then wouldn't you need some sort of 1 way valve to do what the reed valves do? that way you won't loose pressure from the crankcase as fast, and it will allow it to build up more? Someone posted a link to the company that makes them but they want 100 bucks for it.

 

ehhh? lose pressure from the crankcase?

 

My bad i ment vacume

 

Basically , the exhaust flow will provide a constant vacuum whenever the engine is running. Since there is no lapse in draw there is no chance for pressure to build. Under heavy load, which produces more crankcase pressure do to blow by, there is far more exhaust flow, which gives an even stronger draw on the breather hose.

 

Basically , the exhaust flow will provide a constant vacuum whenever the engine is running. Since there is no lapse in draw there is no chance for pressure to build. Under heavy load, which produces more crankcase pressure do to blow by, there is far more exhaust flow, which gives an even stronger draw on the breather hose.

any chance a small backfire could ignite the fumes in your crank case and grenade it?

I've read about this topic before and from what I understand so long as there is no pressure buildup in the crankcase there is no power loss... but doesn't the airbox create enough draw to prevent this or are you just looking for cleaner intake air?

 

Good Job Sportbiker

Gotta love them how to's...

:thumbup

 

I highly doubt it. I don't believe crankcase vapor is flammable. Let alone flammable enough for a burn to travel through a hose. Having a vacuum on your crankcase can help to generate more power and seal rings better (more so during break in). But a bigger benefit is 'clean' air in there keeps oils performance longer. Meaning it doesn't break down so quickly and become contaminated.

 

Also with ram air equipped bikes, I don't think that at speed you are getting such a good draw.