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Bike not starting (no power) w/new battery

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57K views 12 replies 10 participants last post by  bluelu00  
#1 ·
This is an appeal to anyone who may have a possible solution to this problem that I am having.

First of all, this forum rocks!

It is starting to turn nice (55 degrees in Utah).
Pulled the cover off the bike (which hasn't started for a couple months even when it did start, 2 months prior, it was only for 10 minutes at a time to keep it from seizing).

I place a new battery in it today.
After changing the oil and filter.

Bike will not start.

No power to instrument cluster.

No lights, no clicking, no nothing.

Battery shows 12.8 V and is brand spanking new.

When I hook up the leads, it shows 12.8 V.

When I turn the ignition to on, leads drop to 0.8 V.

No lights, no clicking, no nothing.

Turn the ignition back to off, battery leads immediately jump back to 12.8 V.

If the starter relay/solenoid is bad, would I get instrument cluster working?

Main fuse is good (metered it).

All fuses in the fuse box check out (metered them).

It's like there's not a bike there at all.

Any input is welcome.

BTW, I unplugged the Gorilla Alarm (tried it both ways, same results).

Thanks in advance.


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#2 ·
So as soon as you turn on the key switch the battery volts go to .8 then you have a bad battery. Or recheck all your connections and the way you are testing the volts.
Also even if the battery is new and reads 12.8 volts with no load it might need to be charged for a while.
 
#3 ·
Will charge the (new) battery and also try to connect it to car battery (engine off).

Bypassing the basics...

I'll try connecting to car battery (with engine off) tonight and see what happens...

The battery could be bad.
Seems to run the alarm just fine.
I'm use to a putrid sound from the alarm if the battery is low.

New battery puts out quite a fireworks show when I touch the leads though.
(Lamen's test for battery power).

Old battery was on a charger the last 2 months.

Got lazy and did not disconnect the leads when on charger.

Charger may have screwed electrical, possibly?

Hmmm...

If I don't get this thing running soon, I just may have to bend over and take it up the rear from the dealer.
Damnit, I hate getting screwed.

Also, if you're reading this, know any good online parts dealers that don't charge an arm and a leg?


Thanks signed,
Pushing Uphill




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#4 ·
Hrm. Sounds like something is shorting out to me. (yeah, thanks Capt. Obvious)

I'd start with disconnecting your battery leads and using jumper cables to attach to the car. Get the volt meter on it and make sure the new battery isn't boned for some reason, doesn't sound bad, but it's an easy check.

Next. Try to see what the impedence across your voltage regulator is. If it's toast (you could have done it from leaving it on charge for 2 months) then you should see infinite resistance across it.

Next try looking pulling computer plugs, and turning power on, and look to see that power is making it to the dash/ecu. You will probably need a wiring diagram from the service manual and some patience. Just sit there, grab a beer and start troubleshooting. That's my best advice to avoid getting plumbed by the dealer. Good luck.
 
#7 ·
Sounds like the battery is dead or you have really bad short. Battery's are funny when it come to checking them on how good they are. You can only tell when they bad by putting them under load and then checking voltage. If the battery bran new then you have a short in the system, check the main power cable going straight from the battery to where ever it;s going, then sense you said it only drops when you turn ignition on check all the stuff that comes on ( or should be on ) when you turn on the key for a short.
 
#8 ·
Yea K.I.S.S.! Which you did so far! It sounds like to me you have a short or possibly a bad ground. Surprisingly it happens. As tedious as it sounds, move the wiring around and make sure no wire is unsheathed and touching part of the frame. If you have a ground somewhere, all the voltage from the battery would go straight there. On the flip side, a mean short would do the same thing. Unfortunately, im no electrician and wouldnt even begin to troubleshoot a short like that, but you would have to check each part in the electrical system till you found it. Sucks man! Wish I was more help!
 
#9 ·
My bike is doing the same thing as yours. I started it in january and everything worked fine and I haven't touched it since. I was going to ride it the other day and got nothing when I turned the key on, no lights came on and nothing even clicked. I too thought it may be my battery so I tried jumping it with my car and got the same results. I am hoping to find an answer so I can go riding.
 
#10 ·
No ignition power or power to any thing!!!!!!!

Recently removed an immobiliser from my bike, i had to replace the complete wiring harness. I went to start the bike but got no power at all, none to the ignition, clocks or lights, nothing clicks or whirs not even the horn works!!!. Replaced the ECU and regulator / rectifier and main starter relay, still nothing. Checked all fuses and connections.
Iv noticed a couple of threads with the same problems but no one has written what they did to fix it, any help would really be appreciated. Cheers!:)