Maybe a Moderator will help and move your post over to the Mechanical section.

Is your question, how to bleed the lines? If so, first, bleed the lines with the bolt that goes through the brake line, just like you would with a car. Bolt is tight, pump brake lever, hold lever down, then release bolt, and tighten bolt again before releasing the lever. It takes some time, so keep at it.

After you get most of the air out, then use the bleeder valve and the above process.

 

A 'Mity-Vac', brake bleed tool works great. Its actually a pump (hand-held) that draws brake fluid and air throught the system, and out the caliper nipple.
You can get them at Schucks, and Harbor Freight outlets.
http://www.toolsource.com/ost//prod...=googlemityvac&dept_id=500&pf_id=65745&mscssid=TKQQ7DUGE9AD9GRP68953PMDBHAHDJQB
This is the kit, but I think you can do better on the price.
It comes with a Motorcycle adapter fitting.

 

A 'Mity-Vac', brake bleed tool works great. Its actually a pump (hand-held) that draws brake fluid and air throught the system, and out the caliper nipple.
You can get them at Schucks, and Harbor Freight outlets.
http://www.toolsource.com/ost//prod...=googlemityvac&dept_id=500&pf_id=65745&mscssid=TKQQ7DUGE9AD9GRP68953PMDBHAHDJQB
This is the kit, but I think you can do better on the price.
It comes with a Motorcycle adapter fitting.

y

Used a Mity Vac on mine and find it very easy. Try Autozone, that is where i got mine for $25bucks..goodluck

 

whoopps, missed the mech section when I was hurridly typing


the brakes just seemed to really want to be bled out bad, I put a whole quart of fluid through her before I got ANY pressure.

I have a mity vac already!

thanks for the suggestions though

 

I had a mityvac system and didn't like it. I picked up a Phoenix systems v-12 injector and LOVE IT. I drained my MC on top and hooked it up from the bottom and flushed from the bottom up. Did entire bike front and back in less than 20 minutes.

 

remember there is a bleeder valve on the MC :secret:

 

yup, so what is the exact procedure, lines then MC, or the other way

 

You shouldn't need to bleed the MC unless you have air in it. Usually air will be in the lines, not the MC.

To find out if you have air in your MC, crimp off your brake line(s) with sime locking pliars (use some tubing or a towel or something to avoid damaging the lines from the pliars, plus note this won't work with SS lines), then try to pump the brake. It should be hard and impossible to squeeze instantly, first tug. If not, there could be air in there. Pump it as best you can, hold it in and give a quick on-off of the MC bleeder. CAREFUL not to let any fluid run out onto the plastics. If you do this, hold the entire thing with your other hand with a towel or something. Do this a couple of times and any air should be out of the MC itself and down into the lines. Now go and bleed your lines starting from the furthest one. This should completely get rid of any air in the system.

 

You shouldn't need to bleed the MC unless you have air in it. Usually air will be in the lines, not the MC.

To find out if you have air in your MC, crimp off your brake line(s) with sime locking pliars (use some tubing or a towel or something to avoid damaging the lines from the pliars, plus note this won't work with SS lines), then try to pump the brake. It should be hard and impossible to squeeze instantly, first tug. If not, there could be air in there. Pump it as best you can, hold it in and give a quick on-off of the MC bleeder. CAREFUL not to let any fluid run out onto the plastics. If you do this, hold the entire thing with your other hand with a towel or something. Do this a couple of times and any air should be out of the MC itself and down into the lines. Now go and bleed your lines starting from the furthest one. This should completely get rid of any air in the system.

the MC showed up in the mail empty.......

 

:corn

i'm about to do some line work too. good info.

 

Since the MC was installed new and empty (obviously, dumb of me, sorry), clamp off the closest line, keep adding fluid to the MC (don't let it get too low or it'll suck in air) as you pump and you should be able to force fluid into the far line. Then clamp off the far one and add fluid while you pump to force fluid into the closest one. This should give you a good starting point where there is a decent amount of fluid in both and the system is generally full. Now start the procedure I gave in my previous post (clamp off both lines, get the air out of the MC) to get rid of air in the MC, then the far line, then the closest line. Once you've done this, you should have your lines full of fluid and empty of air.

BTW, you'll be amazed at the amount of fluid that can go through a system doing this from scratch. Don't be surprised.

 

Since the MC was installed new and empty (obviously, dumb of me, sorry), clamp off the closest line, keep adding fluid to the MC (don't let it get too low or it'll suck in air) as you pump and you should be able to force fluid into the far line. Then clamp off the far one and add fluid while you pump to force fluid into the closest one. This should give you a good starting point where there is a decent amount of fluid in both and the system is generally full. Now start the procedure I gave in my previous post (clamp off both lines, get the air out of the MC) to get rid of air in the MC, then the far line, then the closest line. Once you've done this, you should have your lines full of fluid and empty of air.

BTW, you'll be amazed at the amount of fluid that can go through a system doing this from scratch. Don't be surprised.

no prob, got any good tips for SS lines? I plan on picking some up for the bike for xmas

 

One other word of advice that I have learned the hard way... don't open the leed nipple too far, or air will leak in around the threads and you will be getting no where fast on bleeding the lines.

 

I've learned this as well. A little teflon tape on the bleeder threads helps to keep the air out and to get a good vacume with the Mity-Vac.

 

well i just did the rear breaks and with out going out and buying all sorts of things, it took me about 30 minutes of bleeding to get out most of the air. then a quick ride and another bleed, then a longer ride and a test. no air in the lines at this point. so all in all it took me bout 1 hr to change to SS break lines and bleed them till they were solid. so it just takes a bit if you wanna be cheep about it and not get a mityvac system

 

nice.


teflon tape is also a good idea....

 

nice.


teflon tape is also a good idea....

Yep, forgot to mention I also did that. I'm a :dundun: