Vesrah RJL work for trackdays and aggressive street riding

 

stay away from EBC that's my biggest advice..

CL Brakes are excellent but hard to find a good source for 'em.

I haven't tried Vesrah's myself, maybe i'll give 'em a go sometime but i'm very happy with CL Brakes :thumbup

 

Curious as to why stay away from EBC ??? I use them for the wife’s r3 just to get a little more bite and they work much better than stock. Almost to the point where they are touchy feeling for her. They really bring the front brakes alive on the r3. For my r1 I go with vesrah not sure which I’ll try yet being there’s more choices than ever and they all claim to be more race oriented than the standard rjl.

 

Depends on what type of riding you are doing... track, aggressive street or just putting around town.

 

I don't like how they fade, seems to come up every time I do any type of spirited riding...

the life span is less than impressive as well and once they start to fade they're ready for the trash.

never had such a poor feeling off the front end with CL brakes, so I wont touch 'em.

I've heard of this being the case in the past, and I definitely notice it..

 

Ok gotcha, I’m sure they will definitely work for the wifey though she is a new rider. Her first time on a bike ever was about a year ago now. But she has logged about 5,000 miles in her first year first on a ninja 250 and now on a r3 and doing well. She’s still no match for even stock pads lol. I want to try these vesrah everyone seems to love. I’ll research the cl as well.

 

this is where I have a bit of trouble, my bud made a similar comment regarding a good friend of ours and her riding limitations.. here's me and my twisted logic, but isn't this kinda backwards thinking? shouldn't a rider who is prone to getting into trouble require 'better' braking power than one who is experienced and has logged a few miles on a bike?.

I mean, if a seasoned rider says to you "gee I really hate how these brakes fade, they really don't offer much
stopping power beyond a certain point, specially seems to get worse in emergency situations. The more spirited riding you do over an average long day (which leads to more frequent brake use), the less you can actually trust them!". What exactly makes you believe a 'new rider' would suddenly go out there with the same brakes and say to themselves.. "oh wow I really love how these brakes just wont allow my bike to stop at a good distance!! you really have to dig into them to get the bike to stop after a long morning ride!! Most of the time when you're getting home and have to deal with traffic, its kinda like there's a 50/50 chance i'll have enough reliable braking power to avoid going head first into that big arse garbage truck up ahead!! that's awesome!! sign me up!!". :fruit: .

seriously, wtf? something is wrong with that logic dontcha think? :Ink_Stab:

since when did smaller bikes with lesser quality oem equipment start beating the laws of physics?

 

In my case with the wife she considered putting the stock back on due to the EBC pads being a bit to powerful. So being there is absolutely no way she could ride hard enough to fade the stock brakes I’m fairly certain there is no way she could begin to use the EBC pads hard enough to get any type of fade either being they definitely feel way better than stock. I only want to try the vesrah on my r1 because I’ve heard there awesome. Up to this point I’ve never had a issue with EBC HH Pads and don’t consider them inferior whatsoever. I was just asking why you had stated to stay away from them and surely won’t be changing my brake pad choice on my wife’s r3 because someone on the internet says there no good. It’s taken a good 300/500 miles for the wife to like the power difference of the EBC HH vs stock pads. I’d call that a upgrade and definitely by no means inadequate. I feel the EBC have always been more than enough for the spirited street pace and was just curious as to why you said to stay away from them. There pretty darn decent pads in my opinion. Perhaps after I try others I may change my mind. Any more power and I believe it would possibly get her in trouble.

 

I have been running the CL60 pads on my bike at the track and they have been working real nice. Riders discount sells them.

 

I've run a set of EBC HH pads and yes, just about every other pad I've tried has been better IMO.

Doesn't mean they're rubbish though and they are usually a decent upgrade over standard pads, partly because many bikes come with GG pads.

If you're happy with them, then no reason to change. I have 3 or 4 sets of near new pads on a shelf because I didn't like them, all of which were recommended as great pads in reviews.

 

Totally agree with you and I’ll be trying more as well. I’m actually just now starting to get into upgrading things. To this point in 40 years of riding I’ve bought my bikes, threw a fender eliminator on them and rode the wheels off of them. Lol

 

Brake Tech: Brake Pad & Rotor Bed-In Procedures
{terminology used geared toward 'cars' so use a little imagination}


All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder. Here are a few things to keep in mind when installing new rotors and pads:

When installing new pads, the rotors should be new or at least resurfaced to remove any transfer film from the previous set of brake pads.

It is critical that the installer clean any rust, scale, or debris from the hub mounting surface thoroughly and check it for excessive run-out with a dial indicator gauge before installing the rotor.

The new rotor should also be checked for excessive run-out using a dial indicator gauge before the caliper and pads are installed. If a rotor has excessive run-out of over .004" (.10mm) it should be replaced.

If your new rotor has excessive run-out, please contact our customer service department for a replacement rotor. Do not install and drive using the rotor! Rotor manufacturers will not warranty a used rotor for excessive run-out. Running with excessive run-out on the hub or rotor will cause vibration issues.

"Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly...Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors."

Failure to follow these procedures may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties in bedding-in the new brake pads. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film. Residue from the previous pad compound on the surface or an irregular surface on a used rotor will cause the pads to grip-slip-grip-slip as they pass over the rotor surface under pressure. The resulting vibration will cause noise and telegraph vibrations through the suspension and steering wheel. This vibration is known as brake judder or brake shimmy. This is typically caused by an uneven transfer film on the rotor surface or an uneven surface on the rotor not allowing that transfer film to develop evenly. This is often misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.

Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors.

 

Both I and she are loving the pads on her bike at this point, if they show any sighn of fade at any point I would change them for sure. As for the install I totally agree in proper prep. The EBC HH pads are a definite upgrade over stock in my opinion. I already wanted to get a braketech rotor kit from sbu for it as well and she says no she likes them just the way they are. I am sure there are other pads that are better out there for performance. All I’m saying is the EBC are just fine for the street and if I felt they was at all not up to the task I’d replace them. Even the stock pads was up to the task in this case. I’ve not tried vesrah on my bike but that’s exactly what I’m buying but I have rode other bikes with vesrah pads on them. All I did is ask what you didn’t like about the EBC pads I was in no way asking what I should or shouldn’t run. I’m not ignoring the fact that there are probably better pads out there and did read your comment with a open mind and may love vesrah so much I end up replacing the r3 with them as well but to say the pads I’m running is taking a risk is just absolutely absurd. Wow until this point of my life I’ve ran stock everything since 5yrs of age and never one issue. With the chosen pads I felt the better bite and function of a better pad so plan to try more. So funny how it’s usually the guys that have all this top notch gear that run mid pack at best.

 

I’m not ignoring the fact that there are probably better pads out there and did read your comment with a open mind and may love vesrah so much I end up replacing the r3 with them as well but to say the pads I’m running is taking a risk is just absolutely absurd. Wow until this point of my life I’ve ran stock everything since 5yrs of age and never one issue. With the chosen pads I felt the better bite and function of a better pad so plan to try more. So funny how it’s usually the guys that have all this top notch gear that run mid pack at best.

no offence but this response is exactly why I avoid threads like this..

you're still talking about a pad you've never tested and as of yet don't understand what the rest of us are speaking
of in terms of WHY you would want a 'better braking pad'.. There is one particular bit I stressed twice and as of yet
seen no comments on it.. Regardless of what 'fade' there may be the deeper you go into the 'braking lever' {which by
the way I've heard is inherent in EBC pads particularly} there is still the ELEPHANT sized issue in the room.

After just about any type of spirited riding, and i'm heading home tired (8-10 hour rides) I suddenly realize
I HAVE NO BRAKES!! I don't know about you (nor your wife) and please don't take this the wrong way, but to
me that SCREAMS as something I would not want on my bike!!

Once you have ACTUALLY ridden with CL Brakes or something comparable, you may understand. Or you may not :lol

Now of course, I've got over 100k street kms and rode in competition at a very early age, so I have other ways
of dealing with it.. I found out this little tidbit while out on holidays, so its not like I can just walk into a shop and
get new pads.. I have had to deal with it but this weekend will be the last and I will never go back to EBC. An
inexperienced rider will not know how to handle a beast once its out of control, regardless of engine size. Which
is why I say SPECIFICALLY if you don't have much experience, I would not recommend them. That's all :dunno

These are the facts, as I have experienced them. My bikes are ALWAYS in top notch maintenance and I do not
like to take chances with my life. If your only response is to say 'well I've yet to experience this myself so I wont
bother with the advice"; Well then, that's clearly in your court! The fact is out in these parts we used to post
up ride-alongs and just about anybody could join in. After a while we realized some riders just don't share the
same concerns for personal safety, end result is we just avoid riding with 'em. People will always choose to
listen to their wallets, sadly.

My dad is a mechanic and he spent the better part of his professional career replacing worn out crap with more
OEM (CRAP). Since we started riding together he has seen 1st hand the difference proper aftermarket goods offer.

One thing he has admitted to me a few times now is 'HE just didn't know any better'.. :dunno :lol

this one is gonna kill yah, he finally ordered a set of CL Brakes for his Trike.

called me as he picked them up and kept bragging about how great a deal he got,
couldn't be compared to oem parts from Honda. and you get a BETTER product with real life to it!

 

To throw another wrench in here....I HATE hard initial bite....The CL60s work better the harder you work them and are modulated super easily and precisely. They work great trailing into the apex (or should I say slowest point of the corner of i drink the Ken Hill koolade).

The first 5% and the last 5% are exactly the same, so you can load the tire and then transition to cornering forces with much smoothness. Hard initial bite just overloads the tire, when you need to smoothly load the tire so you can crank up the force.

To each his own....:dunno

 

I’ve just now found how much different brake pads can be in the last few months starting with installing a set of EBC HH on the r3 and after feeling the difference between them and stock I definitely want to see what else is out there. I myself liked the difference in power in every aspect from initial bite to the harder braking. I definitely want to try others to find my favorite. I’m thinking I’m going to like a powerful initial bite with a very powerful 1 finger braking feel. I love it.

 

I didn't say that I needed to use a lot of force on the lever to make them work.....I said that it is better to have a bite that is proportional to how much you put into it...not a sudden slam on the binders....It is about how you load the tire and the suspension on corner entry.

I mean I have had the rear fully off the ground coming down from 160MPH with ease with the CL60's....was serious pucker factor there.......missed my braking marker into T1 at Summit Main....:scared...didn't miss the corner though....:lol

 

agreed..

that's where confidence comes in real handy.. pucker factor and all :lol

 

If you haven't listened to Ken Hill's pod cast....do it....https://play.google.com/music/m/Iuzdu5dct7qucnirrabsxu652iu?t=Ken_Hill_Coaching...I attribute part of my knocking a few seconds off this year at the track to putting his techniques to practice.

 

Bacchus absolutely hates EBCs and so do I, their HH pads royally suck. I always stay away from EBC, just like Galfer lines (but that's another can of worms). CL XBK5 are meh, good all rounders but do not impress in any aspect.

My recommendations: Brembo Z04, Ferodo XRAC or (ZRAC if racing),
FYI, I have gotten the rear up with the XRACs on my 600RR and still felt in complete control, very predictable and stellar pads.

 

Took the r3 out for a spin the other day it was a really cool day 50 degrees Fahrenheit and the EBC HH didn’t feel any better than stock. Wasn’t sure if it was the cool weather or what. Or even could have been that I had just got off the r1. I gotta try some of these others. Once I find the set I prefer I’m then going to get that set for my r1 as well.

 

My recommendations: Brembo Z04, Ferodo XRAC or (ZRAC if racing),
FYI, I have gotten the rear up with the XRACs on my 600RR and still felt in complete control, very predictable and stellar pads.

I have the ferodo sintered st pads now with braketech iron rotors. I want to give the XRAC a shot. 133 bucks a set though is the cheapest I've seen.

I feel like the stock M/C is holding me back now but idk.

 

Just ordered the xrac pads. I wasn't unhappy with ferodo sintered st street pads. They definitely gave me reverse tunnel vision with the iron rotors. Hoping the xrac will be the bees knees.