I did a 520 kit -1/+2 like I do with all my Yamahas and that is a great combination for the street and track. Im actually selling the bike so putting the gearing back to stock and will be pulling/selling the 520 kit. I dont really ride the street anymore and have my R6 for the track so the R1 is an expensive garage trophy. 1.5 years old and still have 2800 miles on the R1.

 

I did a 520 kit -1/+2 like I do with all my Yamahas and that is a great combination for the street and track. Im actually selling the bike so putting the gearing back to stock and will be pulling/selling the 520 kit. I dont really ride the street anymore and have my R6 for the track so the R1 is an expensive garage trophy. 1.5 years old and still have 2800 miles on the R1.

If I've said it once I've said it 1,000 times, do what UB6IB9 did. One of the best mods for the money.

 

You're talking about the new model R1? I rode that bike off the dealership lot and wanted shorter gearing but be advised. If you plan to uncork the ECU and CAT with a tune, I would wait to ride it with stock gearing first.

It's a legit 15 HP in the midrange and about 20 on top. The problem is that if you ride the bike in it's peak on short gearing, it's going to launch the front end super easy.

If you don't unlock the ECU and tune the exhaust.... It needs gearing bad. It can barely pull away from a stop light without slipping the clutch and bogging down.

 

You're talking about the new model R1? I rode that bike off the dealership lot and wanted shorter gearing but be advised. If you plan to uncork the ECU and CAT with a tune, I would wait to ride it with stock gearing first.

It's a legit 15 HP in the midrange and about 20 on top. The problem is that if you ride the bike in it's peak on short gearing, it's going to launch the front end super easy.

If you don't unlock the ECU and tune the exhaust.... It needs gearing bad. It can barely pull away from a stop light without slipping the clutch and bogging down.

All you need to do is watch your throttle control and it's not a problem. Maybe a bit more concentration but you get used to it fairly quickly.

 

You have the new model R1 with unlocked ECU and shorter gearing?

 

I'm running -1 +2 flashed ecu custom tune and full system, no problem with the electronics on, big wheelies without.

 

Fair enough. My point was to try the bike unleashed first to make sure you're still not happy with the gearing. I'm not knocking the shorter gearing, I have it on my CBR for street riding and it is fun.

 

I do have a flashed ecu an exhaust and it still felt too tall so I actually did the vortex 520 hyper fast kit which is -1&+2. Haven't ridden yet but I figured if that was too much I would just drop 1or2 in the back til happy. I only street ride any more.

 

Dwdw is a pitch man for SBU flash and MJS headers. He preaches it in every thread. The two have nothing to do with each other (gearing and flash). The flash helps the jerky take off and the flat spot at 7000rpm, plus added HP in addition to unlocking other features. Gearing is how tall/short your shift ratios are. regardless of HP. If you really rode on the track like you say you do, you would know that altering your shifting controls how often you need to shift while on the track, or altering the location when you need to shift so you can avoid shifting mid corners. Regardless of how much HP you have. Wheelie control works great on the track and I turn it off when riding on the street.

The -1/+2 gearing ratio just gives all around better shift points. I skipped over calling BS on your other thread, but enough is enough. Your posts are typical pitch man.. Surprised you dont post the phone# of SBU. Stop treating guys on here like they dont know what they are talking about.

 

Typically I run 15/41 or 15/42 at most tracks. At very fast tracks like COTA or Road America 16/41 is just about perfect. No issues with control, more about getting the right gear, less shifting or between gear situations and the best drive off the corners. I've found it helps to keep the R1 wheel base on the long side so I make sure to keep the chain as long as I can get away with. Use the Fast Frank rear brake and wheel spacer stuff so the swingarm had to be modified a little to clear the back brake retainer bolt.

Don't have issues with wheelies, it usually picks up a few inches and stays there for awhile under acceleration in just about all gears, never have to let off or use the rear brake. The bike makes great power, Gary V at the Superbike Shop did the ECU flash and tuning. The throttle is electric motor smooth and the FT QS & Auto blip work awesome!

Don't know all that about forum experts, but try to be a good coach for STT and ASRA/CCS expert racer. Maybe some of them know a thing or two but personally I tend to consider information from good racers and very credible mechanics, but aways keeping in mind what normally works for me and not doing anything too far outside of what makes good sense. Generally lap time, tire wear and rider confidence are what I use to validate what changes I make. Depending on what you believe, your results could vary.

Cheers all!