There were a couple of months ago a request on FB about something electric on the bike. This member advice to contact this pro in UK. He does all kinds of wiring looms and stuff. I asked him to make my 5JJ wiring loom for my cluster, but he was afraid that it may need some tweaks here and there to the wiring and it would be best if the bike was there. In another words i made my own, cuz he didn't wanted to take the risk of going back and forward with my wiring over the pond. I am guessing this guy knows his stuff cuz that is all he does! but i forgot his email. Maybe you can ask there???
Good Luck!

 

I read schematics for a living, what's up?

 

Cool man thanks for the reply.

What I'm trying to figure is whether I can use my Brembo clutch from the R1 on the MT10.
Now the R1 only had a 2 wire switch (which the Brembo has} but the MT10 has a 4 wire due to the cruise I believe'

What I'm not smart enough to figure out is exactly how the switch is operating and whether I can make it work with the Brembo.

Here's a link to the service manual, clutch switch is #30 on the wiring diag, maybe you would be kind enough to take a look?

Yamaha_MTN1000 (MT10)_Service manual 16

 

Why don't you just put a brembo lever onto your mt-10 perch and not have to worry about it...

 

That is my second option but I have the Brembo unit so want to use if I can.

 

The Yellow/Black wire is bringing power to the switch through the ABS and cruise control fuses.

Yellow/White is run to front brake light switch & rear brake light switch and then to the ecu, to disable cruise control, I would assume.

If you look at the cruise control system schematic on 8-123, it's a little easier to follow.

I'm sure it could be made to work (yellow/black and yellow/white seem like they should be all you'd need to use), but as suggested I'd likely just put the lever in the OEM perch and save yourself some headaches (but I'm pretty lazy, lol).

 

I take it black/yellow and Blue yellow are the clutch/starting circuit wires yes?
Also is the switch working by making or breaking the circuits, or is it one of each. If so which makes and which breaks?
Appreciate the help..

 

You'd have to check the Brembo switch with a meter, but it's likely a normally open switch (i.e. your meter set to ohms would show OL with the lever out, and shorted with the lever in), so it's designed to work the same as the "ON" setting of the MT10 switch. If this is the case you could run the black/yellow from the harness connector through your brembo switch to the blue/yellow wire in the harness connector and it should work.

However, since the MT10 switch has stuff happening in both open AND closed positions, you'd lose your ability to disable cruise control with the clutch lever.

If you don't care about the clutch lever being used to disable cruise control, you could just short the Yellow/Black to Yellow/White wires coming from the harness at the clutch switch. Personally i wouldn't suggest it, but that's a call for you to make.

Hopefully I didn't make that too confusing...

 

What I would be happy with is losing the normal clutch switch that's on all R1's that allows starting when not in Neutral and keeping the cruise function.
Can you confirm which wires do what and whether the cruise cuts when switch is open or closed?
Sorry for being a dumbass.... :lol

 

When the lever is out on the MT10 the cruise is enabled through shorting 2 wires; namely the brown and yellow/black wires coming to the switch from the connector (what's called 'normally closed'), when it's pulled the connection between those wires open and 2 different wires are shorted (grey and green/white, again coming from the switch itself) to tell the ECU it's safe to crank the engine with the bike in gear (what's called 'normally open').

If the switch on the brembo (and R1, for that matter) is normally open, as I assume it is since that half of the MT10 switch is "NO", you wouldn't be able to mimic the clutch switch/cruise control functionality as there's no simple way to minic a NC switch with a NO switch.

Do you have a multimeter so you can verify?

 

When the lever is out on the MT10 the cruise is enabled through shorting 2 wires; namely the brown and yellow/black wires coming to the switch from the connector (what's called 'normally closed'), when it's pulled the connection between those wires open and 2 different wires are shorted (grey and green/white, again coming from the switch itself) to tell the ECU it's safe to crank the engine with the bike in gear (what's called 'normally open').



If the switch on the brembo (and R1, for that matter) is normally open, as I assume it is since that half of the MT10 switch is "NO", you wouldn't be able to mimic the clutch switch/cruise control functionality as there's no simple way to minic a NC switch with a NO switch.



Do you have a multimeter so you can verify?

Thanks again for taking the time to help. Be back home in a while and I'll check the switch and report back.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

OK Brembo switch is NO so wont work as stands.
I guess that will mean I just need to run a switching relay to operate the cruise which shouldn't be a problem. If I leave the other 2 disconnected it will mean I can only start in Neutral, which is no problem again and safer than joining them and being able to start in gear.

 

Just an update for anyone interested, thanks to the help from iamzombie, I managed to get it fitted and functioning on all circuits. Had 2 use 2 switching relays but happy to be able to use it. All ready for a matching RCS at some point, in the meantime I'm fitting an R1 Brake Master next.

 

Hi @Redgecko, I´m sorry for the trouble but i have the exactly the same problem. I am from Portugal and there is a great shortage of shops and professionals in electronic mechanics. The thing is that I could not understand the type of relay you used and how the connection is made. Do you think you could help me with a schematic of the connections, type of relay, and the type of Switch you used in the lever kit? If NO or NC? I am trying to solve this issue for more than 2 months and yamaha portugal doesn't help either. I would really appreciate your help in solving this issue since I understand that the solution you talk about in the post, is the simplest. What I understood was that the starter function is connected to the clutch lever and, the relays to the cruise control function. Is this assumption correct? I'll be waiting for kind feedback. Thanks,

 

May was easy using a proper switch .

 

What?

 

Instead of a relay , why not use a switch , an IP67 three way (plenty of choice about size and shape)?

 

Clutch lever had a switch already and I had relays, so did it that way.
Same way lots of people do the RCS on the MT10 too.

 

Yes i know , i was the one who found the switch for the RCS , it´s a 3 ways switch .
As i had problems with a woolich reflash QS/blipper due relays.